Pammie and the P's

Red Jeans Everywhere! JStern 0037 Jeans review.

2012-01-15T13:14:00.000-08:00

Dear readers,

As promised, JStern jeans, my second version, in red stretch denim from the much-loved TNT pattern. Red jeans are in (as far as trends) right now - I'm seeing them everywhere. ( I also chopped 16" off my hair - this is the wavy version).

I bought the fabric from mood. I'm wearing Danski clogs, bought in Seattle during a rainstorm two years ago, and a rain jacket from Anthropologie I'm not sure I'm keeping (it really never rains here but may be very good for travel for a less sporty option).

Again, they are a perfect fit. I took Jennifer's class at ASG in Los Angeles where she led us through a fitting session (and in which I blogged about in detail). I used stretch denim. Her instructions state to use denim with no more than 2-3% stretch and these jeans probably have 30%! I bought the fabric from Mood back in September. So, I sewed the crotch and inseams the same as directed and used a 3/4 hem on the sides and I have plenty of room to move.

I also deepened and extended the back crotch curve and deepened and extended the front crotch curve. Result: comfy!

Here they are again, a bit closer up - really a wonderful fit and I'm thrilled.

Here is the flat version - as you can see my waist is almost the same as my hips (darn it!).

My fancy button ordered from ebay!

Another big decision were the pockets. I left a simple pattern with no hoods on the pockets. I thought that red was enough. However, I did make a mistake. The pockets are stretchy and when I attached them the tops were stretched - so these are mock pockets without a pocket opening, so they lay flat!

I recommend if using stretch denim to use a material such as silk organza as an interfacing, and to add ribbon or other materials inside where the pocket opening exists to reinforce the opening (high end jeans do this I see in my RTW jeans). Therefore, you get reinforced pockets with little to no stretch.

One more recommendation - Jennifer recommends sewing on the pockets before the pants are put together (outseams and inseams); however, I wait until right before I put on the belt loops - it seams I am very picky about the placement. I recommend this method, although it does make it more difficult to sew the pockets on. But I'm okay with the difficulty I'm much more concerned with pocket placement.

This pattern is a dream to sew up and I highly recommend it.

Now, what to do with myself - I have no more UFOs. I bought some quilting material and have plenty of patterns and stash material to sew. I'm pretty excited to catch up on my projects!

Jeanstar!

2012-01-09T22:09:00.000-08:00

Dear readers,

Jennifer Stern graciously featured the fit of my jeans on her blog - JStern's Blog Here. I love the fit - very comfortable - now I wish my first pair had better execution in the stitching - at the time I was fiddling with flat felled stitching (lap seams) - somewhat unsuccessfully!

Almost done with my second pair of jeans:

One of the parts of the jeans making process I find so intoxicating is the multitude of decisions that must be made before the final result.

Below, my project is cut and waiting to be sewn:

One of my first decisions was where to sew the coin pocket (if any) on the jeans. So I pulled a few pairs of jeans out below, to examine the differences on current designer jeans.

A few different styles from Hudson and True Religion Jeans. It turns out, almost anything goes with the placement and design of the coin pocket.
I could have left out the pocket, but almost every "classic five-pocket design" jeans has one of these pockets.

I looked into the history of the coin pocket. Apparently, the small denim pocket above the front pocket first made its appearance in 1890 on Levi's intended to be used for coins and pocket watches.

After some consideration, I chose a slightly off center style to add some pizzazz. They are red, after all.

I am almost finished with the jeans. All I have to complete are the belt loops, buttons and rivets, back pockets, and hem.

Jeans, again . . .

2012-01-07T17:50:00.000-08:00

All,

I am starting my JSterns jeans again in red denim. I have them cut, serged the appropriate parts - and am getting ready to start sewing today.

I forgot to post some details on my first pair:
I did finish my jeans using some nickel rivets from Tandy leather company
and inexpensive (it shows!) Fabric Store Jeans Buttons.

However, you can buy really great buttons at this link and rivets (even in nickel black) at Grommet Mart. I bought some new rivets and jeans buttons off a cool ebay seller LINK HERE.:
Celtic Rivets:

H script button:

As for denim fabric, I have previously bought mine at Mood, and at Fabric Town, a locally owned fabric store and have now found a new source, Pacific Denim Outlet - who sells to the Jeans Designers here - I'm checking into it and will get back to you.

Premium high design denims are normally (but not always there are some domestics) imported from outside the United States, but manufactured to a finished garment in Los Angeles.

Here is a pair of True Religion Jeans Below (bought for less than 20.00 at True Religion outlet but priced retail at around 200.00). Note the techniques used in distressing the denim.

The first technique, I believe, is sand-washing (this is what I am calling it). Note the distressing in both photos around the knees and the back of the jeans. By the way, this denim here is HEAVY - not a light lycra blend.

The second, note the whiskers on the denim in the picture above.

I've attached a great youtube videos explaining the technique that you may enjoy.

Perhaps a handy husband or boyfriend might help out in the quest to achieve the perfect distressed denim. J. is a musician, so I am out of luck, unless I can convince my father or brother to assist!

Review Green Pepper F875 - Oregon Trail Messenger Bag (Small)

2012-01-03T19:15:00.000-08:00

Dear Readers,

I've finished my first project of the year - unfortunately, it is a bit of a mess.
For your consideration, Green Pepper F875, the Oregon Trail Messenger Bag (now numbered #545).

I made the small satchel, for the purposes of checking out this pattern. I like it - I don't love it.

The pattern was coming together rather well; however, once I "bagged" the lining - I fell apart. The lining is bagged right side up to the inside-out outer bag - this makes it fairly impossible to get it straight. I think next time - I am merely going to bind the edges - much easier and I can ensure it is straight. Here, the top cover is simply too narrow.

I also made a mistake with the material: this pattern calls for heavy canvas or the like - I made it with a thick linen and minky lining:) So, it's a bit too squishy. I could and probably would have recommended facing it with a heavy-weight pellon interfacing - but believe me the construction calls for many layers - and sewing it would have been a challenge.

A picture of the adorable (I think) fabric:

Even though it's not perfect, I can see myself wearing it or even carrying a camera in it - in my world (where I frequently travel) you can never have enough bags.

Here is the original pattern F875, the Oregon Trail Messenger Bag (now #545):

And a new Green Pepper pattern, the Village Courier Bag, #555, which I would recommend trying - it looks like it would be easier to construct:

Luckily, my sister-in-law (to be), sent me a wonderful bag for Christmas - so I have a nice finished project to wear while biking!

Now, moving on the red jeans - my now TNT jeans pattern from Jennifer Stern. I am sure this will trigger a jeans obsession!

I also am dying to create a new pattern for a bicycle seat saddle bag! If you know of any please let me know.

P.S. Another resolution albeit materialistic: I am going to bite the bullet and trade in my workhorse serger for a babylock air threading serger at some point before the end of spring. It sometimes takes me up to three days to successfully thread my Bernette 334 (obviously user error) but it's driving me batty!

Considering sewing . . . . in 2012.

2011-12-30T21:39:00.000-08:00

Dear Readers,

Well, in the spirit of the "New Year," I've compiled some sewing "to-do" lists for the New Years (in addition to starting Tony Horton's exercise program, P90X2), and for some reaons, I'm eager to get this post out in the blogosphere!

This year, I'm considering sewing:

(1) A few pairs of bikini and boy short panties

(2) A bathing suit

(3) A messenger bag and perhaps, a saddle bag or panniers

(4) Doggie clothing (rain coat and/or fleece)
(5) J. Stern's Khaki pants pattern

(6) Hot Patterns Moto Jacket

(7) Sailor Playsuit from Wearing History

I am conflicted about this pattern (I myself am a retired Commander) - I am not going to make it as literal, I don't believe - perhaps a change of fabric will make a difference.

(8) A shirt for Jonathan
(9) An outdoorsy clothing item for Jonathan
(10) Maybe some bike shorts for Jonathan
(11) A cashmere jersey top from some luxurious cashmere silk I saw at Mood
(12) A swim parka (for the drive home after swimming)
(13) A corset
(14) A Decades of Style dress

(15) Perhaps try a modern quilt (I've quilted before but now as a garment sewer - it's very hard to go back).

What a hefty list! I am the type of person that always takes too much food at buffets too.

Why not shoot for the moon? Even if I only make it to the top of the hills, it's upward and in the right direction.

I'd love to hear what everyone else is planning this year!

Please, do tell!

A year in review . . . .2011

2011-12-28T22:12:00.000-08:00

Dear readers!

The customary 2011 year in review (I did forget to do this last year):

I've attended the ASG conference (and joined American Sewing Guild) in LA - and met some more bloggers and sewers in the sewing community (online and off).

I've completed two slopers - one top and one skirt (at Sew-La). I have them hanging in my sewing room:

And one of two tops:

And, finished a fitted pair of jeans this year (Jennifer Stern's Jeans pattern and class (Jennifer's Webpage). I count those as my notable accomplishments.

Specifically, I sewed the following (fitted) garments:

(1) 3 skirts
(2) 2 tops
(3) 1 pair jeans
(4) 1 knit top (not fitted, unfortunately)
(5) 1 pair shorts
(6) 1 pair of shorts for Jonathan
(6) 1 sew-along Burda pair of pants
(7) 2 dresses
and a bunch of doggie bags, and other home dec projects!
-------------------------------------------------------------
Total: 12 garments!

That's not too shabby considering I traveled last year, and we were minus one attorney - hopefully, I'll be a bit more productive this year.

I really look forward to posting my garments - it keeps me motivated and I do love to see what everyone else is posting as well. I read my Google Reader every morning - so even if I'm not posting I'm reading blogs. I think I also receive a certain satisfaction from this blog - so I'm keeping at it - although I am very very slow at posting during certain parts of the year.
Every blog opens me to someone else's ideas about sewing, and life - it does allow me to feel more engaged with the sewing community. I also have quite a few bicycling and quilting blogs I follow.

What about you? I'm dying to see the End of Year counts!

Sew-jo is back (again!)

2011-12-19T21:03:00.000-08:00

Yes, finally my sew-jo is back! Here's what I've been up to:

1) I bought some fabric at Gorgeous Fabrics (wonderful to purchase from!):

2) Some new Hot Patterns:

I also acquired a used pattern but cannot find it in the Hot Patterns catalog.

3) I am making another pair of jeans in red denim, purchased from Mood:

4) And, I'm attempting a satchel, from a green pepper pattern:

5) And, holiday presents for co-workers (with dogs):

And, finally, taking some pictures, mountain biking and attending an environmental law conference in Yosemite late October:

Happy Holidays!

Hopefully I'll have more fun projects ahead!

Finally - Review Colette Violet #1015

2011-12-16T19:20:00.000-08:00

Dear readers,

I apologize for the delay in blogging - I've had some family medical problems, coupled with an extremely busy work schedule involving five weeks of travel this fall! Again, no excuses - I finished this blouse early November, and I am just now getting around to blogging it.

Here is the creation, I darkened the hue to magnify the colors. . .

First, I used my sloper to modify the pattern - which is very well executed. The pattern directions are a dream. The collar method was a bit different than I've used before for peter pan collars. I made a mistake.

Yep. As you can see below - the shirt contains no dart at the bustline. My sloper is based on a princess seam. I rotated the dart and added length at the bottom; unfortunately I measured incorrectly and the front was 1" shorter or more than the back. So I took out the dart, leading to the blousey front as you see below!

Other than this - a wonderful pattern. I must have been tired when I cut this. I used Japanese linen blend fabric, and I will post a review on Pattern Review.

By the way, I went out to make some Home Dec. (yuck!) projects and found that holiday fabric was extremely scarce - I must have missed the rush!

Hope all is well and I hope to sew quite a bit more over the Holidays. I have bought some amazing fabric on my travels and online and I'll tell you all about it! In the meantime, I've been amazed by all of your creations!

Happy Holidays!

Tutorial: DIY Clip-on Doggie Pickup Bag Holder/Carrier

2011-09-11T13:45:00.000-07:00

All,

Two months ago I lost our $20.00 doggie pickup bag holder - one which you could latch onto a belt loop for a walk. After contemplating buying another - I simply decided to make one! Here is a tutorial I designed after making about five-seven samples. I think you will like it and the materials should just cost a few dollars, if that! This project can be completely made from reused materials and dog leashes if you wish.

Materials needed: 9" by 5" fabric
cord or ribbon (4" to 6" total)
1/4" elastic (about 10 inches total

1. Cut out a fabric piece 9 inches by 5 inches. My bag I lost was 9" by 6". This is a matter of personal preference.

For this project, I used weather-proof Gore-tex bought from Seattle Fabrics out of my stash because I've been making some outdoor adventure items. However, one could use canvas, a heavy weight fabric or simply some rip-stop, or supplex. To be honest any material is a candidate.

Above is a picture of the Gore-tex material above - note it doesn't fray but is a bit hard to get the needle through. I finished my edges using a rotary cutter. By the way, if you wish to attach reflective tape you need to sew that on before you head to the next step. The doggie bag I lost had it - I didn't feel that it was a necessity for this project.

Ripstop, pictured above would be fine.

If you wish to hem the top and bottom edges of the doggies bag - this would be the time. You want to finish (or "hem") the long length of the fabric (the 9" part) first and merely edge finish or serge the shorter (5" part) if this is your preference.

For the top hems, I recommend serging (perhaps a rolled edge) OR I did a 1/8" hem on my previous project by folding the material and sewing it. I believe a 1/4" hem should work too! Again, for this project I did not hem it as this material does not fray.

2. The tab attachment.

Cut a small strip (I did three inches - a bit too long) of ribbon, I used some grosgrain ribbon, but as the picture shows below - you could use cording, or the end of an old dog leash attachment, ribbon attached to a D ring. . .a host of fun choices. Better if you have a cuppa while you're choosing:)

I placed my ribbon 1/2 inch from the end of the long length of the fabric (well, the pictures shows 1" here) and I used a pin to secure.

Then using matching thread (I used red here for visibility); a universal needle, and a straight stitch - stitch across the top of the tab ribbon (or cord) 1/4" from top edge of fabric. See below.

Because I made my tab too long - I put anther row of stitching 1/4 inch down from the last stitching.

3. Now cut your elastic. This is a matter of preference because my project is 9"; I used a slim 1/4" black elastic. Any elastic will suffice. I cut the elastic for the top of the long length (9 inches if you remember) - to be 4 1/2" and for the bottom long length - 4 1/4". This allows you to push the doggie bags in a slighter larger hole at the top and slimmer hole at the bottom.

I pinned the middle and stitched each end 1/4" from the edge.

I used a zig zap stitch (standard) and the smaller piece of elastic took quite a bit of pulling while I sewed.

Note the zig zag.

I stopped the thread about 1/4 to 1/2" from the edge.

4. Finishing and the fun part.

Note: If you have not finished the edges on the short 5" edge and you wish to do so - please do - I did not as this material doesn't fray.

Put the short sides (the 5") sides of the fabric right sides together and stitch 3/8" from the edge.

5. You're done! Turn inside out and attach a carabiner or any other clip and out you go with the doggies.

To Gusset or Not to Gusset? That is the question.

2011-09-10T16:48:00.000-07:00

Dear readers!

Look what I found: Crotch gussets in J.'s high end hiking pants. These are made by Royal Robbins:

What an ingenious idea! Now I think every man should have them, at least in their active wear!

Don't you think it would increase the comfort while not decreasing the style?

For example, in the Kwik Sew shorts I made for J. Perfect Fit. Absolutely perfect. But, wouldn't a crotch gusset make them more comfortable for outdoor activities?

Have you run across this before? I want to put gussets in all my man's trousers and shorts now! I googled "crotch gussets" and found a jeans company Gusset Jeans (really, great jeans but need PR help for that name - - I originally thought they were named "crotch guesset jeans"!). Here is a picture, courtesy of their web site:

They also make women's jeans - but I'm not so impressed with those. . .

Now other bloggers and messages boards have considered the idea of crotch gussets. Fashion incubator in particular has wonderful tutorial (and great pictures of when you should add gussets (I hesitate to say it - "male camel toe").

Fashion Incubator's Article on Crotch Gussets

I am going to add the gussets when I make J.'s next page of cargo pants/shorts - I've added a link below to the pants. And, I will do a gusset tutorial at that time!

Green Pepper Cargo Pants

I finally bought some rivets from Tandy Leather and Jeans Button and will do a cleanup post next! What am I working on - an elastic self-drafted A line skirt.

Completed: First Pair of Jeans, JStern 0037 (or Self-Stitched Jeans, the LA Way)

2011-09-05T10:44:00.000-07:00

Dear readers!

Completed. My first pair of jeans, Jennifer Stern Designs No. 0037.

Well, almost - I didn't put the jeans button fly, pocket buttons or the rivets on (yet).

MNBarb from Pattern Review (message board discussion here) probably provided one of the best link for jeans buttons - I'm going to order them from this ebay seller - Dimebuttons - link is Here. Apparently, since LA is the hub (reputedly 80% of the high end jeans are designed here) - I should be able to buy some fantastic supplies; I need to hunt some down stat!

For more information on the high ends jeans manufacturing in Los Angeles - check out this LA Times Article, "Premium Jeans the Los Angeles Way." One of the key aspects of this business is that LA manufacturers can take orders as late as 2:00 pm and have them out by 5:00 pm. Wow! According to research, wholesale denim (high end) can cost anywhere from 12.00 a yard to 25.00 a yard. My denim was 6.00 a yard:) I am going to check out sources for us readers, my recollection is that Mood has some good denim.

Above is a close up - I do need to work on my execution skills. I made these in 6.00 dark denim for a boot cut. I lost 10 pounds since my muslin fittting so instead of 1/2" inseams, outseams and crotch curve - I cut 3/4". Which worked out well and is still a bit loose (although you cannot tell from the pictures). I only felled the back crotch curve and the yoke (and do need to work on those skills). Also I pulled out the wonder tape at the crotch and redid that topstitching so until I wash them they appear a little gunky. By the way the fly is absolutely flat - but without a button it's pulling a little with belt.

On the others I used a denim double needle to simulate the felling. However, I don't recommend the use of the denim double needle. I made a mistake and in pulling up the stitches cut a hole in the inseam - I took up the right leg 1/4" and am experience some pulling (not evident in the pictures) on that side but I can live with that. These jeans need a good wash - so I can get off all the tiny threads!

I am particularly pleased with the back - I place the decoratively stitched pockets once the jeans were assembled (the directions called for them to be done before the inseams and outseams are complete) - and placed the pockets 1 down near the middle of the back and sloped it down to 1 1/4". On the I also slated the pockets starting from 1" from the back middle crotch curve to 1 1/2" as to go down.

Another essential tool is an awl which sewing. Really critical. I am working and made some great progress on my topstitching! I am definitely making these again and will use a contrast thread most probably next time - and higher end denim (and maybe corduroy). I'd also like to make a wide leg version ala Hudson Gwen jeans pictured here.

I have written a Pattern Review here for more detailed information.

The end.

P.S. After reviewing the pictures - I am definitely going to switch from a YKK Jeans Zipper 3.5" to a 5".

Obsessively staring at the back of everyone's jeans.

2011-09-04T00:28:00.000-07:00

Dear readers,

It's the end of Day 1 of the jeans construction period - and I've made serious progress - and some decisions:

1) I finished the front pockets - I used a twin jeans needle to topstitch - and I'm fairly happy with how these came out.

2) I finished the zipper - I used both JStern's blog but mostly relied on the clear directions and I am happy with how the zipper turned out.

3) I'm not sure I'm happy with how the inner front crotch below the zipper turned out - I topstitched it after securing it to be well-finished in the front, per the directions - I believe I altered the front crotch curve. The picture below depicts where the curve should be (the top scissors) versus where the crotch seam is now due to the topstitching (the bottom scalpel seam ripper). I am thinking tonight about whether I should redo this curve.

4) I finshed the back flat-felled crotch curve seam. Jennifer's directions call only for the yoke to be flat-felled but I went ahead and did a 3/4 flat felled on the curve seam also (the directions called for 1/2 seam) and again, we shall see how this turns out. I originally very much disliked the flat felled construction but after a night at the movies obsessively staring at the back of everyone's jeans I've determined it's not so bad. And, because of this particular denim - I don't believe I can tear out the seam without disturbing the denim (little white threads have begun showing up where I did re-do a portion of the flat-felled seam).

5) Based on my failure in the flat-felled seam area - I've now determined to put in 3/4" seams versus 1/2 (since I've lost weight and the muslin was a bit looser) and NOT flat-fell but to top stitch with the dual needle on the side seam and inseam. (J. Brand jeans does this).

6) Here is a depiction of a 3.5" zipper I bought from Jennifer at ASN (actually I bought five!). It's a YKK zipper, excellent for jeans and reputed (I cannot yet verify) to be environmentally conscious. I'll investigate that further.

More on the history of jeans to follow - I merely wanted to give everyone an update on the progress. I did note my London "Hudson" jeans have a "Made in Los Angeles" tab.

Tomorrow: Sewing inseam and outer seam; construction of back pockets on the jeans, and waistband. Monday: Rivets, buttons and hems! Jeans Ho!

Considering Jeans.

2011-09-03T10:36:00.000-07:00

Dear readers,

I'm in the middle of making a great pair of jeans; and in doing so, I am taking my time (gasp!). Yes, it's true - I'm not rushing to get through!

I said I've never make jeans because I love high end RTW jeans and have quite a few pairs. But, as they say, never say never! I'm doing it after taking J. Stern's Jeans Fit class at the ASG and loving it. What a fun project. Since I'm taking my time I'm going to do a series of posts about my trials and tribulations - and about making choices. Once you have your muslin fitting (the stage I'm at) it's all about making choices.

Now, that said, I've lost 8 pounds since the muslin fitting (I'm not traveling for work and have cut out beans (lectins), wheat and sugar for the most part. So, I am proposing a few new techniques in the form of construction choices:

First, deciding whether to flat fell the outseams and inseams (the yoke is called for to be felled in J. Stern's jeans pattern and is a classic technique used in jeans).

My favorite jeans are boot cut Hudson jeans. As you can see here the outseams are topstitched rather than flat-felled, and the entire inseams are flat-felled.

Here is a pair of skinny jeans - rock and republic - although their crotch line is flat-felled - their inseams are not flat-felled. Also, notice that the outseams are flat-felled at what looks to be 1/2 inch rather than the standard 3/4 inch.

Sorry about the open crotch construction shots - this isn't normally a "dirty" blog:)

My thought is to flat-fell the inseam and crotch area and consider (based on fit) whether to do the outseams in a full 3/4 inch flat-fell seamed. I am concerned that I've lost weight and that my jeans denim (dark and pictured below) has more than the 1-2% stretch recommended for this pattern. The roll was unmarked as to lycra percentage when I bought it.

Another choice which must be made is what color thread to top-stitch and whether to use a pattern or embroidery on the pockets:

Hudson Jeans: no pattern

Rock and republic: Embroidery and use of matching thread to topstitch:

Two sewing bloggers have done amazing pockets - check them out:

1) Katy did an unique "medical inspired" pocket HERE at the most Awesome Pocket ever!

2) Dawn did an wonderful embroidered pocket - I couldn't find the pictures on her blog, Two One Two Off, but have put the link to the pattern review (she and Katy did the Jalie Jeans pattern 2708) HERE.

Since the jeans are dark I'm thinking of topstitching with a medium jeans blue thread. (J. thinks this is a good idea as my prior attempts at topstitching have been iffy). I have bought a dual jeans needle.

I may put a pattern on the pockets, below these are my tests on the jeans fabric I bought:

I really like the geometric design:

And, the wave:

By the way, if you'd like some pictures of other jeans, please comment - I do have a wide variety to photograph in my arsenal (levi's, true religion, J-brand, etc.).

Today - I'm doing pockets and the zipper. Tomorrow's post will be about the history of jeans (and the rise of high-end jeans manufactured in Los Angeles).

Two Pencils for the Fall!

2011-08-31T16:10:00.000-07:00

Dear readers,

Back from dog-cation, we are now on the regularly scheduled sew-cation. Two more pencil skirts are completed, drafted from my skirt slopers. The first, made out of wool (feels like soft felt) from Mood, below:

Perfect scholarly-lawyer attire with a vintage feel. I realize from these fair pictures I might consider improving my pressing skills!

I love the dark wool skirt - and it's absolutely a perfect fit. I have to thank Sew LA for the sloper classes - these are really good (and I'm about 10 pounds heavier than when these were drafted but they still fit well).

A back shot, above - ugg - needs better pressing.

I drafted a flat waistband using the pattern-making book from Ms. Armstrong. It's wonderful.

I lined the skirt above in red bemberg ambiance.

Below, please see a close-up of the fabric.

The second skirt is another wool, but tweed, $6.00 from G-street fabrics:

No waistband, and the fit is better on the first, I believe.

You can see the tweed a bit better.

I lined the skirt again, with a heavier weight Bemberg.

I am still having execution problems - my hem is much better (I'm doing blind stitch machine hem). And, I am doing machine centered zippers (which look not so good!) - but luckily I NEVER tuck in blouses. My kick pleats could use some work as well. These are easily (and proudly) wearable but are not, sadly, perfect. . .

I have not been doing Pattern Review posts since these are all self-drafted. I've considered it but I believe the intent of the website is for review of existing patterns. Am I wrong?

This concludes my skirts for Fall - all work-type skirts - again, a necessity but not a ball of excitement. I drafted three and I will draft one more different skirt - an A-line casual skirt in Japanese gauze with an elastic waist.

Thanks for your comments - I am having fun with my sloper and I am working on Jennifer Stern's Jeans pattern next!

Sew-cation To Do List

2011-08-23T08:55:00.000-07:00

Dear readers, I'm almost five days into my sew-cation - here is my list

~~Draft pattern for bodice blouse and sew~~
~~Major alterations on two maxi-dresses~~
~~Hems for three shorts/pants/one skirt~~
~~Two pot holders~~
~~Jeans, one pair:)~~
~~Two pencil skirts for work~~
One A-line skirt (pending)
Some knit shirts (time permitting) (cancelled - ran out of time)
~~Belt loop case for doggie bags during walks~~ (I may do a tutorial - super fun!)
~~Lined microfiber/gortex case for swim cap and goggles~~
~~Doggie polartec sweaters~~

Let's see if I can make it before Labor Day ends (and I'm spending a long weekend in Mammoth with J. and the dogs hiking).

My first design (based on my bodice block)!

2011-08-22T12:02:00.000-07:00

Yes, finally finished my bodice block! Hurray!! Finally, I drafted a pattern of my own designing - based on Ms. Helen Joseph Armstrong's Pattern Making book. I modified my basic sloper (or block) I made at Sew-LA.

The material is Japanese linen-gauze - very comfy. I chose to put on regular buttons - and added a peter pan collar - which I used the construction methodology in The Reader's Digest Guide to Sewing.

What I like about it is that is has my style aesthetic - and is super comfy especially in the bust area. It has princess seams. I haven't been able to wear a button shirt in years. I did make some mistakes - I sewed the button holes horizontal - hey, I know - but I haven't been wearing button front shirts for years. Thanks J.

Also, I need to refit my shoulders - they are not quite right in the front. They don't pull because of the ease in the bodice but they are constricting.

Other than that - I love it! Really comfy - I can't wait to wear it. Well, onto more sewcation items. Skirts, Skirts, Shorts and Jeans. Did I mention I finished all my alterations - I feel like I am smoking along!

Jeans Fit Class at ASG Los Angeles

2011-08-19T10:25:00.000-07:00

Dear Readers,

I unexpectedly had the best experience. I was lucky enough to get into Jennifer Stern Hazeman's Jeans Fit class at the American Sewing Guild (ASG) conference here in Los Angeles and even ate breakfast with her (unexpectedly, she's taller than I imagined)! Fun with celebrity sewists - what a day!

Here is the link to her BLOG! We received, among a professional workbook the following jeans pattern (left). She has a khaki pattern that I already have (right).

Jennifer is delightful! I did get a perfectly fit pair of jeans seriously thick muslin - see below:

The class was large - and we were provided Bernina Aurora 440s and 430s to sew our muslins with (what a luxury!). I am going to tweak them a bit more once I use actual jeans material (I need to ease in the knee notches so they match and work on some of the back wrinkles - this material has no stretch).

Seriously, Jennifer is probably the best sewing instructor I've run across. I must say she has excellent training skills she employs that are professional and exceed the standards for adult learning. Great job JS!

And she can really draft and fit patterns. The class had about 18-20 people (probably the max you can fit in a hands-on class) , and everyone had excellent results - and everyone had distinctly different figures. She was very fair and spent time with those learners that had difficulty understanding the pattern-making/fitting techniques.

All that said, I didn't need much personalized instruction as I was the only person in the class that had an almost perfect fit out of the box. I merely made changes for boot cut and a deeper slope in the back crotch line (a mere preference for me!) - I had quite the opposite experience in making my bodice sloper.

I would encourage all to attend the conference - I am thrilled at the variety of the workshops at the conference (bra-making!), and of the sewing level of the sewists attending. It gives me something to aspire to!

I'm working on alterations, my bodice sloper blouse and now, jeans! Fun!

Attending a sewing conference?

2011-08-14T09:35:00.000-07:00

Dear sewers,

When I picked up my beloved Janome after service (to send to a well-loved fiance') - a brochure near the register broadcasted that the American Sewing Guild was having their yearly conference downtown LA.

Of course, it's next weekend (during my sew-cation - normally I never have this luck!) . I missed the registration and its hefty fees. But, some workshops are open before the conference and they will have vendors! Exciting! I am thinking of taking Jennifer's Sterns Jeans fitting workshop (an 8 hour class) the day before the "real" conference begins.

I've never (gasp!) attended a sewing conference.

What do you all think - have you been to these conferences? I'm most interested in the singular workshop and the vendors?

Bernina Aurora 430! & Embroidery - Yeah or Nay?

2011-08-12T09:07:00.000-07:00

Dear Readers,

Yes, with a portion of my tax refund - about three months ago I bought a Bernina from a dealer that was retiring (after 50 years) and received a significant discount. I chose the Bernina Aurora 430. I didn't really need a new machine - but I did want to upgrade at the discounted price and try a Bernina. It was a difficult decision in terms of what model to buy and I didn't have a lot of time to think about it.

I list the pattern review HERE. I am happy I bought it - make not mistake - this is a luxury. After purchasing it I gave my Janome TB30 to my brother's fiance because her machine broke. I love it. It handles lightweight fabrics better than my Janome. The stitches and stitching power is greater and certainly it is more accurate (once you discount the user:)).

One big difference is the metal bobbin (like my straight stitch Featherweight 221) - I believe it is more precise than the Janome - but to be honest the Janome is a great machine too. But now that I've gone Bernina I don't know if I'll go back.

One note is that I could have gotten the Aurora 450 for even a better price. I was uncertain about the 9mm stitches - this is the standard 5.5mm. I've heard from commenters that most garment sewers prefer the stability of the foot the 5.5mm. Any comments? I also heard the much loved TNT CB hook was very reliable and that this machine is a "workhorse." I'm always attracted to the workhorses.

Well, one more note - I could buy an additional module for embroidery. I'm never done it - was never interested in it before - but my interest is piqued. One note this machine requires a PC to hook up the module - so I'd have to buy a netbook (we're a MAC house). It's a good option.

Regarding the idea of embroidery or embellishment - what do you think - embroidery - Yeah or Nay?

Below see some examples. . .

What do you think? Do you embroider/embellish or have you thought about it?

I don't know if I would use it other than vintage style mexican shirts and skirts, and perhaps some cool jeans. Although, I must admit - I love my RTW Hudson jeans.

First basic block piece (skirt) turns into something wearable!

2011-08-10T16:59:00.000-07:00

Whew! I've been busy at work. I took this class in November and am just NOW getting around to making something (after gaining 20 pounds too!).
I finished it on Sunday . . but haven't posted because I've been taking adult swim lessons (to improve my stroke) and it's exhausted me! It's every day this week - I thought I only signed up for one class!

Now . . . what I made - a well-fitting pencil (or straight) skirt:

That said - Wow! Super easy - with my basic block (sloper). This took nothing at all to sewing up:) I measured a 1" inch allowance but ended up sewing 5/8" (of all things - I tried 1" but it was a bit large). I do believe I could probably sew an 1/2 inch SA rather than 5/8. I did not make a waistband.

I also designed a pleated vent (or kick pleat) in back of the skirt. I did this with the help of my trusty patternmaking book by Ms. Armstrong. I am considering doing a tutorial but I'm not 100% certain I sewed it correctly in the execution and need to conduct more research. The picture is not so great - I should have used my macro lens and put the skirt on the dressform - not hanging off the ironing board. Ah, next time.

And a machine-sewn centered zipper (rather than my normal hand picked zipper). I also used wonder tape - which does have its advantages (no pins) but it did get my needle and zipper a bit sticky.

Finally, a really well fitting pencil-type brown skirt for work wear. The fabric is wool, so I pretreated it using the steam as this fabric is dry clean only - I hope it works!

Also, note I'm a big chicken - I refuse to change the thread in my serger - so I'm going with the dark blue. Seriously, I'm not changing the thread - I had it serviced and it sews perfectly. Don't mess with success.

I fully lined the skirt to the waist (and used copious amounts of facing) with a mid weight bemberg lining. I then put in a blind hem by machine - and once in, I attached the lace to the lining with a fell stitch. I do believe I am getting some pulling in the hem due to the machine stitching (user error). I may take out the hem and hand stitch it in. In addition, the skirt was a bit short - I wanted a full 1 to 2 inch hem and was able to hem it only 1/2 inch. Good to know.

By the way, I bought the wool skirt material from G-Street Fabrics near DC for 6.00 - they have a table for fabric ends perfect for skirts! A great deal!

Yes, I will do this again - the entire process probably took less than 4 hours. I am finding I am enjoying having a sloper skirt pattern. Next up, the basic bodice block.

P.S. Well, it is a bit boring! But I do need some basics and enjoying this "fallish" sewing. . .

Surprise?

2011-08-06T03:00:00.000-07:00

A few months ago, someone used a portion of their tax return to boost the local economy (at least that's what I'm telling myself):

What could it be?

P.S. Now that the menswear is done it seems as if I'm speeding through my next projects!

A wardrobe for J.? Mens' Kwik Sew 3884

2011-08-04T18:59:00.000-07:00

Well, no. But it's a start! And, J. really wants a wardrobe (of all things!!).
So, we'll get started on some men's tailoring between projects. For now this project cost me only the pattern and a zipper! But, I must admit - it did take at least 10 hours of precious sewing time.

The fabric, which had been in my ~~garage~~ stash since at least 1994, worked well for these shorts. I was very concerned about the use of the fabric but J. loved it. So these short are a "wearable muslin." Controversial in the sewing community, I know.

I was worried about matching the plaids but I believed these turned out fairly well (but not perfect).

Oops! Forgot to cut those threads before the picture!! The full pattern review is Here. I sewed View B; a new techniques for me were inserting a fly zipper, adding mens' style side pockets and a welt pocket in back. I probably should have taken the darts out of the back. During the fitting J. pled for them to stay - for he was afraid they were too loose. Ultimately the shorts are a smidge too tight - the pockets pull out. J. claims they are very comfortable; he wouldn't take them off after the picture! For reference, Kwik's Sew envelope for 3884 below:

The pockets in front are designed very very shallow (for a man) and I added material after they were in. We like the pattern but J. wants another pair of shorts in a different pattern for hiking rather than these. Sigh.

What about you, dear readers, do you find menswear exhausting? Are you yeah or nay on making your man clothes? And would he wear them, anyway?

Sewing Book Reviews. . .

2011-07-29T10:44:00.000-07:00

Dear readers,

I'm in the middle of sewing a skirt, a top, and a pair of shorts for J. In addition, I've made (oh, horror!) a myriad of home decorative projects!! Yes! I won't torment you with those - but I did make them from my Japanese fabric scraps. I've bought the following books over the past six months, along with a short summary of my findings:

1. Patternmaking for Fashion Design (1st ed.).

Recommendation to buy: Yes, if you have already taken a patternmaking or sloper (basic block) class.

This learned book by college professor Helen Joseph Armstrong is excellent, but I do warn you it is a textbook; therefore in my opinion it is best utilized for someone with patternmaking experience or at least has a basic block to start with. I have fairly comprehensive reading skills, and simply would not have understood it without instruction. I bought the first edition, on the advice of our instructor at the time. It tells you how to manipulate darts and how to take your basic block and create designs of your own. In other words, it frees you from patterns once you have a block of your own. I enjoy having the extensive technical expertise.

I have seen the criticisms on Amazon and other reviews, wherein it appears that the editing of the book (in terms of grammar, etc) must be improved. But, I tell you, it doesn't bother me in the slightest. I'd bought the book for the technical skill and craft of pattern-making by an experienced instructor - I blame the grammar on the editors. For what I wanted it for - it was excellent! I hope to ~~start~~ keep using it for a long time to come.

2. Reader's Digest New Complete Guide to Sewing:

Recommendation for buying: Yes, with the caveat, only if you don't have a previous edition or want a newer or more modern feel.

I have heard (and read) from various bloggers and sewing sources - this was a comprehensive source of sewing knowledge. So, when I saw a new edition, with pretty pictures -- I immediately purchased on sale. I agree, completely comprehensive source. If I had known this resource was the best - I think I would have bought this (and only this!) to start out with as a basic beginning sewer.

3. Threads Sewing Guide:

Recommendation to Buy: Yes, for all - I think the intermediate to advanced sewer would enjoy it.

I am an intermediate sewer (I think I am), and I did find that this was somewhat duplicative of the Reader's Digest source, but that this book had some unusual techniques, and explanations of the techniques in the book that I have not seen before.

Examples include: tailoring and lining techniques in detail, more pattern alternations, fundamentals of couture sewing. . . this resource is an excellent complement or companion to the Reader's Digest guide.

This book is a luxury item, and if you can afford to splurge - you will enjoy it. It is well-written, contains beautiful pictures. It is not a necessity; rather the book is a sewing indulgence.

4. Sewing Secrets from the Fashion Industry (vintage).

Recommendation for Buying: Perhaps if you can find a copy for the right price (mine was less than $5.00 at the Chamblin book mine in Jacksonville, Florida).

For the price I paid and the age of the book - I loved this book - and this initial purchase actually spurred me on my book buying spree of the Threads and Readers Digest materials. I learned some new techniques I had not seen before. Specific surprises included:

Excellent discussions on the pros and cons of buying commercial sewing machines and sergers.

The use of sewing guides. I never have used them before but am

definitely thinking of using the ones that came with my machine; yes, I've heard of other bloggers' lamenting the use of these guides - but I realize even with the best machines I don't sew that straight.

The ingenious uses of the sewing awl. The different methodologies explained made me go out and buy one to try.

A guide for seam allowances - although now I have the Armstrong book that discusses this in detail; I found it helpful.

Well, I only wanted to summarize - lots of reviews on these materials are available - but these mentions are from my own viewpoint?

Does anyone have any other recommendations? I have Susan Khalje's book I really adore on Couture Sewing (the older addition) and other books I don't treasure as much as these.

Patternmaking class - Finished!

2011-07-04T09:19:00.000-07:00

Dear Readers,

I've been off in Newport, RI for a week teaching and returned to finish my bodice block in the advanced patternmaking class I've been taking. . .

Here are the results of my efforts:

And, here are the skirt blocks I made last November - hope they still fit - I've gained a few pounds:) Oh, the piano is my pattern "staging area."

I also use J's piano to stage my patterns that are cut out (heehee!).

For the bodice, I have a different right side and left side because my left shoulder is taller than my right (I attribute this to an old skateboarding rotator cuff injury).

So, double the fun. One of the most interesting portions of this class was learning my measurements - and quite frankly, they were quite different than I thought. No wonder RTW never fits perfectly in the bodice area.

I am thrilled to have a bodice block that fits well! If you are interested Shearie from Sew La masterfully teaches these classes. They are very complex and now I realize that I didn't know what I didn't know. In this regard, I mean that pattern-making is a complex art that takes (I think) years to master. So, I didn't realize all the measurements that go into a commercial pattern. I didn't realize (and am still learning) all the ways to manipulate the blocks to achieve a certain look or style.

I also bought the recommended patternmaking book and as an aside, random new and vintage sewing books (I'll review these in an upcoming blog post). . . Off to sew. . .

Happy Fourth of July!!!

Little P relaxing. . .

My little sewing space . . .

2011-06-13T23:26:00.000-07:00

Dear readers,

I try to blame my lack of sewing mojo on excessive travel; but really, I had trouble setting up my sewing machines each time to sew. So, with a little re-arranging - voila! A dedicated sewing space!

Below: My stash (I keep it scaled down since I live within an hour to LA's fashion district (unlike my quilting days) and a selection of patterns. I also organize the stash by: knits, bottom shelf, wovens, second shelf, home decor (canvas, heavy linen), third shelf, and sport material, top shelf.

We live in a small house overlooking the ocean on a hillside - so space is at a premium in our world. It may be small but I love this little area.

Below: On the window-sill, I see I need an artbin for my serger spools. I use an old stainless steel table as my cutting table (with the wheels off).

As you can see by the oak tag paper - I'm in the middle of a continued pattern-making class at Sew LA, consisting of making a sloper for the bodice, and learning more about fit and the art of making a pattern.

A small reading area:

A larger perspective below

My main working area (I didn't think this would work but it's fine!)

During the week, I don't keep the iron out. . .

I am enjoying my pattern-making class - it's nice to be able to understand how and why adjustments are made. My normal method is to break out the FFRP and use those adjustments to my pattern pieces.

Very predictably, I also learned that I wear the wrong bra size (THAT is such a cliche'). With all the bodice measurements - it was very nice to have a third party measure me (other than J. (do you trust your partner to measure you accurately?)). Well, he had good intentions; he's very helpful marking hems and finding buttons. Did I mention that he wouldn't mind a full wardrobe made by me? Something to think about.

Next up: two book reviews - one new - one a bit older (I mean, vintage).

Sojo Shorts

2011-06-07T19:27:00.000-07:00

Dear readers!

My sewing mojo ("sojo") continues. . . . I finally finished my Kwik Sew shorts this weekend! I lost one of the buttons for the final finish but luckily J. found it vacuuming on Monday morning! I present to you Kwik Sew 3854 View B:

Here is a view of the waistband - it's a bit high but I lowered it an inch as an alternation:

Other changes: Took out at least 5/8 inch out of both sides (and I think I can take the buttons over a half of an inch). I always seem to make my clothes slightly too loose! Do you?

The obligatory booty shot:

My other alterations include I carved out the crotch seam deeper in the back of the short - J. Stern suggests this in her jean tutorials - and she states that jean designers do the same - I always wondered why my RTW jeans fit so well. By the way, her website is JSterns Designs. Her jeans tutorials start around April 2009 and go to Fall 2010.

Although I don't show it the insides have a clean serged finish, and I lined the pockets with red/white butterfly fabric.

Here's the package view:

I don't love this material - I picked it up on my travels for 1.99 a yard at Joann's in Brandon, Florida. I made a muslin for these shorts and consider this to be a second muslin before cutting into some expensive technical fabric for hiking - I love the shorts and plan to make another pair. No zippers!! Gotta love it. I am going to Newport to teach a class and plan to take these (but not to teach in:)). More for clam chowder after class.

This is not my style Icon (preppy Andy from The Office in his red pants):

I think my style is more laid-back skateboarder meets rock chick meets mad men styling meets backcountry hiker. Ok, whatever that is, right? How do you define your style?

Mojo is back!

2011-06-03T21:17:00.000-07:00

Finally dear readers,

I embarked upon some irresponsible serging and I am happy to report my mojo is back with New Look 6939. I started late this afternoon and wore the top on my way to sushi -

The New Look top runs very large. I have had it cut out for about 8 weeks.
I actually ran out of fabric cutting it out and added some white jersey for an additional flounce. I cut a 16 (38 chest) and have linebacker shoulders. Yet, I didn't fit it - merely started serging! My bad - it hangs off one shoulder. I bought the fabric - a jersey knit from Mood.

Here it is on the dressform:

I ran out of flounce fabric - so I picked some white jersey knit and I think it adds some interest:

At sushi:

Would I make this again? Perhaps - it's super easy - it's not form fitting at all (just like the picture) - but I would cut a 10 I believe to ensure a better yoke fit. Again, I wanted to get my mojo back. Here is a picture of the pattern below:

It's wearable with a tank underneath - but this pattern has quite a bit of ease!

One question for readers: do you press your knits as you go along? I did the yoke (I can tell that made a difference) but couldn't tell the difference for any seams (and I serged this).

Next up: Shorts - and some alterations and I'll be caught up on past due projects!!

Projects merely waiting for a needle. . .

2011-05-08T09:38:00.000-07:00

Dear readers,

You're probably asking yourself is this blogger ever post about completed projects ever again! Answer: I hope so! I am at home (not traveling for work) for the next six weeks.

Here are my projects cut out (one for muslin and one in fashion fabric) and ready for the machine and/or needle - I just haven't had time to set up my machines, get out my supplies and complete them! Darn it!

Kwik Sew shorts (I'm dying to finish these):

I intend to make View B with this fabric below (I don't love the fabric but for summer - it's a good test fabric. . . .) I am making a muslin so that I can craft the "perfect shorts."

Fun tunic:

View A, with this fabric:

I literally am sick of seeing these projects laying around, unfinished, glaring at me to finish them. I especially want to make the shorts - after the red fabric, if I like them I have some high-tech fabric for hiking I want to use that I scored when I visited Seattle Fabrics.

Pam

Stylish Blogger Award (and what I've been up to!)

2011-05-07T09:09:00.000-07:00

Dear Readers,

Why haven't I posted? Well, I've gotten a promotion and we're down one person. As a result, I have been traveling a heck of a lot more (for example, I was in Florida and DC the last two and a half weeks!). That, and the fact that I don't have a sewing room permanently set up has slowed my progress considerably! I do have two projects cut out and waiting to come together. . . (I'll show on my next post)! BTW, I actually wrote this post before my recent travels and am JUST now posting it (took some time for the links below).

I do become free from teaching and traveling this summer - so hopefully, I can spend the summer sewing, sewing, and sewing, among other relaxing activities.

At the beginning of the year, the wonderful Sue from www.sew-misunderstood.blogspot.com nominated me for the stylish blogger award. She's a fantastic home seamstress (who's quite the producer of beautiful and funky items), and a great singer and rocker. The conditions of this award are:

1)Thank and link back to the person who awarded you this award.
2)Share 7 things about yourself
3)Award 10 recently discovered great bloggers.
4)Contact these bloggers and tell them about the award

I am just now finally getting around to it - here we go:

(1) I've picked up sewing as a hobby and I can see continuing it for life - I'm thrilled with my choice! I lean toward sports - who knew that I would fall in love with sewing. I did not sew as a child or teen. I did some quilting and rather easy (but unfitted) garment sewing in the mid-nineties (pre-internet).

(2) I've always wanted to learn guitar (but have never had the time to take "lessons.") I live with a musician, have easy access to lessons, yet, have never taken them - talk about slacking.

(3) I am a fourth generation Floridian living in the Los Angeles area (and I do have some really wonderful Florida cracker cousins (who I hope never read this entry!) that live in inland Florida). I love the area I live in - so much creativity, wonderful weather and geography and plenty of adventures to be had.

(4) I dislike immensely when people try to categorize everyone in a box. Two weeks ago, my mother's gardener (my age) approaches me and says, "I hear you a career woman." And, I am thinking, "really, you had to say that, really?" I am not a "career woman." I am merely a woman who has a career. Thank you.

(5) I am petrified of rattlesnakes (yes, I live in the west). I have had encounters. I'll leave it at that. Seriously, petrified. Sharks, no problems. Spiders, don't love um but ok. Snakes, no way, I am out.

(6) I wish I was born in this generation with the internet. I would have loved the access to information. I know many vintage bloggers feel they wish they could have been born in the 40s, 50s, etc. Not me. Right now would be fine with me!

(7) I was one of the first children bussed an hour across town in Orlando for desegregation. I went to an all-minority school, in a lower economic neighborhood - with very good results. I think today many parents wouldn't send their children an hour on the bus to support desegregation, despite how socially responsible they are.

10 recently discovered great bloggers (I do list SOME of my favorite bloggers, although perhaps not *recently* discovered), in no particular order:

(1) Eugenia (really I am just waiting for her to do a post about the Royal wedding, since she lives "across the pond.") from Eugenia's (fabulous) world of sewing.
(2) Sister from Living La Vida Loca.
(3) Katie from Kadididdlehopper.
(4) Lindsay from Lindsay T sews.
(5) Amanda from Amanda's Adventures in Sewing.
(6) Christina from Assorted Notions. (Welcome Back!!)
(7) Erika B from DIY Style.
(8) Patty from The Snug Bug.
(9) Peter from Male Pattern Boldness.
(10) Dawn from Two on, Two off.
(11) Kay from The Sewing Lawyer.
and finally, the missing in action mistress of the sarcastic skeptic:
(12) Elaine, from The Selfish Seamstress.

Have a great Saturday!

Glad to be finally back blogging, Pam

Burda 07-2010-127 Sew Along Pants

2011-03-12T14:16:00.000-08:00

Dear Readers!

Finally, I finished my Burda 07-2010-127 Sew-Along Pants. Normally, it is not a style I would have chosen as it has pleats. I am a complete rectangle and fit Vogue and Kwik-Sew out of the box (no alterations, normally) and shun pleats. But I couldn't resist the allure of the sew-along and learning pants alterations (which I did, thanks Sunni!).

By the way, I wanted to wear a different set of oxfords, but the little "P" you see in the picture there ate a strap off my Mary Jane Oxfords so I am off to see the cobbler in my saddle shoes.

These pants were tall - and had quite a bit of ease - so I did two muslins and some significant alterations - they fit almost perfect for the pattern. I also hand-picked a back zipper (instead of a side zipper, which always irritates me for some reason). The following pictures are over-exposed so you can see the fabric a bit more closely:

Another,

The waistband for me was most troublesome - I made two (in addition to the two muslins (so four total) and ended up taking darts in the final waistband. The picture below shows the fabric I finished the insides and the pockets with.

With regards to the waistband, I don't know what I did wrong. . . maybe I applied it up side down. I did cut it on the bias - and it turned out huge - I ran out of fabric finally and went with what I had.

The handpicked zipper below:

Typical me, I serged a hole in the waistband and ended up using applique to attach a butterfly, which actually is a nice touch!

The end result was a nice fitting, inexpensive (less than 12.00 in material - the material is a medium canvas duck - slightly stretchy), super comfy pants and I learned quite a bit. I may make these again - since I did all this fitting, but I am going to fit the waistband better next time - and chose a much lighter material - such as linen!

Victory! In other words, user error.

2011-03-06T12:34:00.000-08:00

Dear Readers,

Hurray! I figured out what I was doing wrong with the threading - user error.

I used the wrong needles (I was told that the serger could use "any" sewing machine needle. Well, I checked the manual and it clearly specifies the needle system number (130/705 H household) and range of size of needles (70 - 90) - I was using jeans and topstitching needles...oops. Also, I was using cotton thread - the manual specifies the types of thread (polyester, synthetic, darning, wooly nylon) and thread size - and cotton is not mentioned. . . so back to cheap serger thread that works perfectly!

During my sewing downtime, I was lusting after some Hotpatterns - please see below . . . I'd love to make a sharp jacket and jeans slacks. . .

I don't mind this satchel, either:

Pretty sharp - don't you think. I've got a tons of projects waiting - my next two - I need some quick and easy fixes. . .

Thanks for hanging in there with me . . .

Trying to sew!

2011-03-05T19:45:00.000-08:00

Dear readers,

I apologize for my absence - I am waiting to finish my Burda Sew-Along pants after two muslins - here are the pictures: first, the fabric (waiting patiently on the ironing board), and second, my second Muslin.

To be honest, I have been ridiculously busy at work (traveling) but the real reason for my long-awaited UFOs (now!) is that I cannot thread my serger! Yes, in the middle of my Pants Sew-Along - I tried to change the thread, but gasp - could not! I am going to retry tomorrow after waiting a week and acquiring some other thread - but it is very frustrating - I was ready to run out and buy a babylock after those five precious hours of fiddlin' with my Vintage Bernette 334D. Any suggestions are appreciated.

My Janome has also been skipping stiches and I believe, need to be adjusted as well. Of course!

In the meantime I have been:

(1) Visiting the 19th Academy of Motion Pictures Costume Design exhibit at FIDM! Really fun - and pretty quick visit!! My favorites were the Alice in Wonderland costumes, True Grit, and Wall Street (of all things!). . . They also had the Burlesque costumes - whew - Christina Aguilera is really tiny (as well as Shia LeBouf and Ellen Page).

(2) Checking out the new Rodarte exhibit at MOCA in LA. Rodarte (the Mulleavy sisters) had a hand in the costumes in Black Swan.

(3) Oiling my scissors. When I bought my dog grooming scissors at the Eukanuba Dog Show in Long Beach - they gave me some oil - and each year - they give me new oil when I have them sharpened. I used to to oil my sewing scissors - (where the scissors meet at the base not on the blades) and wow! They are sharp and quiet again! A picture of the oil syringe below.

Hopefully, I can figure out this threading issue! More to follow, dear readers!

Vogue 8667 Finally Finished:)

2011-01-17T14:58:00.000-08:00

Dear Readers,

Ok, I'm only two weeks late on the publishing of this finished dress. My second, and it's a much better fit. I worked hard on the bodice with the princess seams.

Here's the back view - which is a better fit than what this picture suggests.

Whew! Boy I need a haircut.

I've reviewed this pattern before so, here we go:

What I liked: Fun, easy, princess-seam pattern with retro good looks in a variety of styles. I love the two-tone - which Eugenia ingeniously concocted in one of her dresses. Great fit. I added the selvage flowers and pockets which match the bodice. . .

Peek-a-boo

Flowers - my big design element.

My challenges: The bodice fit - which I blogged about last post. I wish I could add the collar to this version - I ran out of tropical material. I lined it - which was challenging considering the double knit material I used on the skirt and somewhat skewed the absolutely perfect fit I had going on previously.

I also handpicked the zipper and used a variety of couture techniques. . . fell stitching on the armholes and to finish the lining.

Hand-picked Zipper. My favorite.

Next up: I'm in the middle of the pants sew-a-long by Sunni, The Cupcake Goddess, working on my muslin fit. I am taking a cloning class by Kenneth King, and I've been shout out by Sue of Sew-Misunderstood! Thanks - the posts are forthcoming.

This dress should work wonderfully - I'm headed to Hawaii in a week for two weeks for a work trip - although I planned to make a new bathing suit - that project has now been delayed. . . Pattern review on this dress to follow.

Vogue 8667 Version 2 Almost!

2011-01-10T08:57:00.000-08:00

Dear readers,

I've almost finished Vogue 8667 version 2. The dress is pictured below - it needs some finishing - which I will do upon my return from a trip east later this week:

First, I must thank (profusely) Eugenia from Eugenia's (Fabulous) World of Fashion, who gave me the idea of the two tone ensemble when my fabric selection for the bodice was insufficient in terms of amount of material.

She constructed the same dress in this method and its a knock out.

I have also constructed two deconstructed flowers to attach to the dress - in the shoulder/bodice area, I think. .

I will model the dress next weekend - however, I did two processes I may not choose to do again on this dress. First, I lined the dress with cotton voile - I think that affected the fit a bit - although it's a great fit so far - it actually felt better without the lining (I'll explain that in the next post).

Second, I added pockets and looking at the silhouette I believe this changed the lines of the skirt.

By the way, if you don't know - Auburn is playing in the BCS National Championship in Arizona (I'm on a last minute trip and missing the game). However, as sewing inspriration - I'd like to give a shout out to Sister at
Living La VIda Loca! - who has sewn, and perfected, the perfect Kwik Sew polar fleece jacket. War Eagle!!

Tent in Living Room, also known as Why I have NOT finished my Second Vogue Dress!

2010-12-30T18:58:00.000-08:00

I want to finish before the New Year!! But, you can see I've been up to no good with the time off :)

Dare I mention that I've been mesmorized by the snow on the mountains surrounding Los Angeles - I seemingly have contracted what is known in these parts as "snow fever." Must go . . . see snow. . .

Intermediate? Maybe, but Burda Newbie

2010-12-29T11:56:00.000-08:00

Hello Readers,

I guess everyone is preparing for the New Year - I've still had trouble finding time for sewing. I changed my rating on Pattern Review to Intermediate, one step up from Advanced Beginner. I'm now doubting that. I've joined the Burda Pants Sew-Along from The Cupcake Goddess. However, it has been an uphill slope:

First, what have I signed up for?

Second, I finally used highlighter to mark the pieces, but realized there is a pattern piece number 2 black, number 2 yellow, number 2 green. Oops. Mine are pieces 1 - 5 black. I then used a black sharpie (not the recommended method to show the correct pieces).

This is a tall pattern, hurray! Perfect, seemingly, for me. And I plan to trace it out - any tips from anyone? I've never cut out a Burda. According to the sew along - we're using 1" seam allowances generally and 5/8 SA for the crotch seam. . . again, any tips are appreciated. . .

Finally, I'm finishing up my second Vogue dress and I wanted to post what I did to alter the pattern for the lower bust (on princess seams). On my initial muslin - it appeared the bust point was too high by just over an inch.

I used the method from FFRP (Fit for Real People) - and it worked liked a charm. Initially I tried to "cheat" and lengthen the shoulder seam (not good). The FFRP method resulted in an accurate and precise bustline on the princess seamed bodice.

Here I cut out and moved down the bodice point. I lowered it the corresponding distance (just over 1") and drew in the new seamlines.

Accordingly, I did the same below on the corresponding piece.

What I don't show is that I actually had to alter the horizontal bustpoint to give more room from bust point to bust point. I was wider by 2". I don't have pictures to show that adjustment however, but I did so by adding to the center princess seam pieces and subtracting from the side center seam pieces.

I hope to post the dress before this Holiday is over!! But with the way things are going I give that prediction a 50/50...

Happy Holidays!

2010-12-24T09:32:00.000-08:00

Happy Holidays to all! I am thankful for many blessings in my life, for all the talented home sewers blogging and for being able to write this blog.

I haven't been posting as I've been so busy (both traveling for work and at home) - but I am gearing back up in January - I'm taking Kenneth King's Clone Your Favorite Garment class on Pattern Review (starting January 10) and I am doing a Burda Pants Sew-Along from The Cupcake Goddess.

By the way, I did buy a ham and sew roll from The Cupcake Goddess and they are so much fun - she actually wrapped them in old patterns for mailing. Adorable (and the smell of newly cut sawdust is to die for).

By the way, I have to give a shout out to the productive sewing blogger -
Katie's Blog. Her blog provides me with countless tips. Check out her blog - I highly recommend it.

A few months ago I found what I thought was a Janome-sponsored blog that gave all kinds of tips (for example, home-sewn flowers for decoration on garments) - but I've lost the bookmark! If anyone knows of this site - please let me know! UPDATE 12/25: I found it - it's Janome's Sew 4 Home website - the tattered flowers I was looking for can be found there - here's an example below - I'm going to make some of these and add to my Vogue Hawaiian Dress (if I can get off the couch today!).

Naked Machines Finally Covered!

2010-11-28T22:22:00.000-08:00

Dear Readers,

Despite the shocking title, I haven't finished my second version of my dress - I was having trouble making choices. Before I get to that - this is what I've been up to this Holiday.

Before: Nude machines -

After: Fully, and fashionable dressed (covered) machines -

I used Simplicity 2679 (purchased for $1.00) at Joann's Fabric.

I also measured the machines (the Singer Featherweight and the Serger) and tailored the patterns slightly. The Janome (with the vespa fabric) sewing machine cover was one of my first projects 14 months ago. In all three projects, I used cording instead of binding to bind. Wow! The cording (or piping) foot on my serger was fantastic. I love feet - I'm going to do a separate post on this. I also have fallen in love with the serger - I love it and am glad I own it. I never thought I would own a serger.

I bought the two new fabrics above - they are Japanese fabric 30 percent off from Momen+ in Torrance - on Black Friday. You know I'm obsessed with Japanese Fabrics.

I also quickly sewed two doggie bed that are for their crates - easy-peasy - measure, cut and sew. I cut up an old down-alternative comforter (washable) for the insides.

This is one of two:

And, again, the second in the same fabric (the robots mats were bought separately - we're all "robot-crazy" (also known as roboty) in our house).

Finally, with regard to the Second Vogue 8667 dress - I think I'm going to use a separate fabric for the skirt (so that it's not a completely Hawaiian dress and may be worn more frequently). I must give a shout out to Eugenia's Blog. She sewed at least 2 - two-tone dresses - and most recently did a gorgeous rendition of Vogue 8667. I've decided to line the cotton top (instead of facing or bias binding) with a cotton voile and use a double knit for the skirt.

Well, off to sew! Have a great week.

Happy Thanksgiving (US) & Happy progressing to the end the week (everyone one)

2010-11-25T08:43:00.000-08:00

Dear readers,

If you've been progressing toward the end of the week (Congrats!) the weekend is almost here!

In the US, we're celebrating Thanksgiving, where the desire to get the perfect turkey and meal, spending time with relatives you may or may not desire to see, and planning crazy shopping the day after. And, some people chose to give thanks for their lives (we do!).

Yesterday, I went to the paragon of booksellers, and bought three sewing magazines. One serves as an excellent reference and I learned a couple of techniques. The magazine is Teach yourself to Sew by Threads magazine.

Although I am familiar with most of the "getting started" techniques - I have learned a few things (and I'm only 1/3 of the way through).

For example, there are tools to help your presser foot stay level over thick seams! And, the best way to get sharp points on a collar or tight angle is to make a box type of stitch during the seam instead of a point. . . I never had problems with that but good to know! I recommend it as a fun reference with lots of good tips.

Finally, on my Kindle 3, thanks dad!, I downloaded Pat Conroy's My Reading Life (which is a love story to writers and readers, really).

He writes, "As an American liberal with impeccable credentials, I would like to say that Political Correctness is going to kill American liberalism if not fought to the death by people like me for the dangers it represents to free speech, to the exchange of ideas, to openheartedness, or the spirit of art itself. Political correctness has stranglehold on academia, on feminism, and on the media. It is a form of both madness and maggotry, and has already silenced the voices of writers . . . across the land."

I find this so true, even on a minor level, like this sewing blog. I won't address the larger first amendment issues in America, but I will say that I do write my blog in fear of offending others (not to be confused with tolerance, though). I am careful to monitor the voice and tone of my blog - really, I want to promote and enjoy home sewing - and encourage others to try (and learn from the legion of experts out there). I want my blog to be accessible. And maybe, that is the way of it for writing that is trying to accomplish a goal such as this. Readers, do you find your voices chilled by political correctness?

Just a few things to think about (and feel free to respond!) - Pat Conroy's book is an easy read if you haven't had the chance yet. . .

Thank you Vogue Patterns!

2010-11-23T23:12:00.000-08:00

Wow! I need to buy a lotto ticket - stat! First, I pass the bar (luckily) - then my father send me the new kindle (lucky, again!), and then wonderful Kathy Marrone comments to tell me that my last post is featured on the Vogue Patterns facebook page and that they like it very much. (Very shocking!)

I still feel pretty lucky - I consider myself to still be an advanced beginner. Out of the blue! If you are on facebook here is the LINK. I wasn't aware of the FB page - and they post frequently - on a variety of sewing-related issues. Their latest post indicates that they are giving away fabric (from their stash) on Mondays.

Now, I feel dedicated to doing a better job on my Hawaiian dress - all part of my guilt at being mentioned and featured on their link. Well, dare to dream, I say!

BTW, I think this counts for a few minutes of my fame quotient.

Vogue 8667 (Finally!) and Celebratory Libations

2010-11-20T10:20:00.000-08:00

Hello dear readers!

Finally, I've finished Vogue 8667, pictured below. It's been quite the journey!

Finally, I might add. I started this project at the same time as I was taking "Intro to Pattern-Making." Which was brilliant. I started out making the dress pattern initially with the bodice pictured here, in a Hawaiian Cotton Print.

Several problems emerged, when I sewed two muslins to check the fit.

First, the cotton has no drape for the collar piece. And I actually didn't have enough fabric for the full skirt (of course!!). So, based on Gertie's wonderful blogging, she gave me idea to use a double knit - a wonderfully soft fabric that I bought for 8.00 a yard from Michael Levine - I had more than enough fabric (the bolts were huge). So, I put off the Hawaiian fabric (I am finishing this weekend).

However, do you think I should face the Hawaiian bodice? I am tempted to use bias binding (same color) but J. thinks that has a tendency to look homemade. Your opinions are helpful.

I also decided to initially not make the sleeves since the sleeve fitting was complex. I have rather large biceps. However, the double knit gave me some confidence so I made the sleeve alteration - based on the advice from the book, Fit for Real People.

I have a 9" bust to bust point - which I increased by 1" from the pattern. In addition, my bust points were 1" below overall the curve indicated by the pattern. I will details these alterations later this weekend with pictures. It was actually very hard for me to get a good fit with the princess seams, since my shape differed quite a bit from the pattern cut. The double knit was quite forgiving, although since it was not exactly the same as the cotton muslins - I had several differences in the final result. The bust should not have been altered horizontally, but the overall curve move worked out well.

Even though I didn't need to - I handpicked the zipper, above, (thanks Sewaholic (great tutorial)). I also admired Gertie's and Susan Khalje's tutorials and lessons, respectively, which gave me the ideas to do this type of couture technique. I finished the seams with my serger, even though with double knit one is not required to do - I think it looked more professional.

I also added the bow at the waist to hide some wonky seams (I almost ordered a custom belt). If anyone has any ideas on how to sew very straight seams across the waist on a princess cut garment - please let me know your tips - I had big problems. I am going to go back and reset the bow, to tell the truth - I hurried to finish this dress and have worn it three times since finishing it Wednesday evening.

End result, I love it. I have to finish the cotton Hawaiian version, but I am probably not going to use the full skirt. I now have a skirt "block" from my Intro to Pattern-Making - and I'm going to use that to attach a straight skirt like the alternate view suggested in the pattern.

Pattern review Here!. This pattern took a ton of alterations, and initially, I thought the skirt would look wonky, but I rather like it.

On a personal note, I've been on pins and needles since Nov. 1 - but found out last night I passed the Cal. Bar on my first try! Hurray! Now, I am going to nurse my headache from the celebratory libations!

Hey Anthropologie!

2010-11-05T23:57:00.000-07:00

Hey Anthro -

I think someone has been reading someone's blog. Yes, dear readers, as shocking as that might sound to you it's true. Do you remember my Colette Macaron dress made painstakingly with Japanese Echino fabric!

Ah Ha!

Anthro's fall catalog arrived today in the mail and, lo and behold, I think some company (with a name starting with A.) knocked off my dress. OK, I know it's not a direct copy - but I suppose they have knocked off the idea of doing a vintage type of dress with modern Japanese fabric (the idea of it:)) Sure, their fabric is silk and not cotton/linen . . . suspect, I tell you! And the name of their dress - "Japonita!" That nails it in my mind.

As I was knocked off (in my own mind) , I feel completely justified knocking off the offender's circle skirt pictured below:

I am in Class 2 of Intro to Pattern Making tomorrow! I feel some cloning coming on . . . don't "they" say imitation is the greatest form of flattery?

Decades of Style Patterns

2010-11-03T02:00:00.000-07:00

Dear Readers,

Whilst I was taking my class - I did have a chance to shop and here is my bounty - I can't wait to make these up:

Two Decades of Style patterns that I have been waiting to buy for awhile (apparently Decades of Style had a trunk show with all the designs sewn up that I missed two weeks ago (of course).

Decades of Style 1940s House Dress

Decades of Style 1940s New England Dress:

Also, I bought three yards of this cotton lawn, which does have some cross-stretch - it is NOT a liberty print - but does remind me of the type of prints Liberty is famous for. I was thinking of making Vogue 8667 in this print but after trying on my muslin - I think I will save it for another project.

I also got this thick canvas Japanese robot print to make a Green Pepper messenger bag for J. Unfortunately, he doesn't think the material is substantial enough for his books (it is - especially if reinforced) But, hey, I'm not going to argue - so yeah!! I can use this somehow for a project of mine!

Dear readers, if you have sewn Decades of Style patterns - I would love to hear about it! Tips are appreciated!

Vogue 8667 - Vintage-Inspired Modern Dress

2010-11-02T02:00:00.000-07:00

Hello Dear Readers,

I hope this first of November finds you all well. As for me - as yesterday's post discussed - my sewing mojo is back - and NO travel for me this month:)

I have just completed a muslin for Vogue 8667 - a modern dress with a vintage twist. I am making the sleeveless dress in beige on the model shown.

Pictured are the bodice and full muslins for this dress - and whew! I have quite a few alterations to complete! I also wanted to make the blue version shown above, but the sleeves would have taken two + alterations to fit my rather full upper arm - so out they go! Plus, I plan to wear this dress in Hawaii with some fabric I picked up my last work trip there - so sleeveless does make more sense.

I have completed the bodice muslin shown above. My alterations (upon trying it on) are the bustpoints must be moved down 1" each. This bodice has princess sleeves mind you. In addition, I must widen the bust points one inch to the side for each. I am also adding 1 inch to the bodice - to move my waist seam downward. Finally, I am adding 1/4" on the seam allowance for the sides.

I haven't yet sewn princess seams, so I looked up and cross-referenced how to do so in Fit for Real People, by Pati Palmer and Marta Alto. The authors give a detailed description on how to move the bust points for princess seams (the technique in short involved cutting and moving the pattern downward at the bust-point on the front pattern piece and side pattern pieces). Although after thinking about this (and dreaming about it!) - I may try adding 1" to the shoulder seam if it doesn't throw out the proportion for the armholes.

I also reviewed the description on how to widen the sleeve for the upper arm, and although the technique is excellent - I think I prefer the description and additional technique for a small adjustment detailed in Fast Fit, Sandra Betzina. Both technique call for cutting and widening the arm pattern pieces.

Finally, the skirt is done and I need to do a better job on the pleating.

After thinking about this - I plan to cut another bodice muslin and check the fit once more before cutting my fashion fabric.

Any tips on fitting (or sewing) princess seams are appreciated!

Introduction to Pattern Making (Skirt)

2010-10-31T19:52:00.000-07:00

Hello Readers!! Happy Hallow's Eve:)

On Saturday, I finally took the first class in a series of 3 classes of Introduction to Pattern-Making. I'm taking the class at Sew LA from owner, Shaerie.

The first three weeks are really, making a sloper for a skirt. This sloper will function as a flat pattern that will "free me from the confines of commercial patterns." And, will assist with fitting all future garments - Sounds Great!!

I haven't signed up for the bodice part, and now I believe it's sold out! Oh Boo! I may have to wait until next offering or procure private lessons.

Here's what I have learned from the class - I have measured myself completely incorrectly. I measure myself as Waist 33", Hips 38" - when in reality my waist is 30" and hips 40" (I have been eating a bunch of chocolate:)). Also, I've learned my hips are 9" from my waist - the standard measurement in commercial patterns - yeah!

We are using a Butterick 5746 (as shown below) basic skirt and working on our muslins now. As soon as we are done I'll go on a skirt making binge - right now I'm on a dress-making binge (still).

Here's what I have learned about my sewing:

(1) I am rushing literally everything - I need to slow down and take my time.

(2) I really need to pay much more detailed attention to grainlines.

(3) Ok, I do need to make muslins for the majority of my projects. (As a result of my sewing mojo being jump-started by this class, I made a muslin for Vogue 8667, which I will explain in detail on tomorrow's blog!)

(4) I really need to trace sewing lines instead of eyeballing them by hand (especially for high value projects). Yes! It does make a difference (and modifying these lines requires, dare I say it?, MATH!).

(5) Ah, the wonders of the two inch clear ruler. I really need to use my clear flexible ruler in everyday measurements - wow! I've really been missing out.

(6) I'm so glad I took that couture hand sewing class in preparation for this class - it's made hand-basting a breeze!

Summary - Great class so far and this is the first in person class I've taken where it was more than a beginning level garment sewing class. This is an advanced class and everyone has experience garment making - I'm holding my own though - all my self-study, the couture hand-sewing class, and practice has definitely helped. I have quite a bit to learn!

Vogue Pattern Bounty

2010-10-29T19:12:00.000-07:00

Dear readers,

After work today, I jumped on down to Joann Fabric for their 3.99 pattern sale (Vogue patterns only) going on. I needed 2 yards of muslin since I am taking a very promising Introduction to Pattern-Making class on Saturday morning in that hipster enclave of Los Angeles, Silver Lake (where I do buy quite a bit of Japanese fabric).

Here is my bounty:

Vogue 8146:

I didn't mean to purchase this - I ran across this while browsing for missing patterns in the drawers (as usual!) - I found this by mistake - I love sheath dresses - and loved the jacket on this one. . .

Vogue 8333:

A Claire Shaeffer pattern that I love! Since I saw Erika B make a wonderful Claire Shaeffer jacket - I couldn't wait to pick this up - I want to eventually put my newly acquired couture skills to work!

Vogue 8667:

A very easy vogue pattern that I saw favorable reviewed on PR - can't wait to sew this up - plus it favors my aesthetic of perhaps vintage, yet modern. .

Vogue 1206:

I loved the sleeves and neckline on this dress - it looks pretty easy and I've seen positive reviews on PR and my bloglist - Jonathan loves the fabric shown on the model but I certainly cannot see myself in this print!

Vogue 8688:

I like the version on the right, in yellow! I can make this quickly - and I already love a few RTW cashmere sweaters I own in this design! I really wanted a couple of different knit patterns to be honest but they were out of stock!

In a related note: Have you seen the option on McCall's webpage for "Printable Patterns." Has anyone tried this option and if so, what was the result?

I can't wait for tomorrow's class!

Hand Couture Stitching Class

2010-10-10T15:02:00.000-07:00

Hello Readers,

I've just completed my first sewing class online! Of all things, it was the couture methods involving handstitching - which, paradoxically I signed up for less than a mere week after acquiring my wonderful vintage serger.

Susan Khalje (Susan's Website), a wonderful couture designer, hosted the online class on Pattern Review - and guess what, I kinda really like hand stitching now. It has a certain look, and when done well, is gorgeous. And, I think, the most important aspect is the amount of control it gives you when stitching (zippers, lining, and gathering can be very easy!).

Here are some stitches that I really liked best:

The Prick Stitch (an easy variation of the back stitch) - here is my practice zipper (first try!):

The catch stitch (for adhering fabric have linings or lace)

The fell stitch (the go-to stitch for security). I have it pictured below attaching two lace pieces. But in reality it is THE stitch used, for example, to put in linings by hand because of its strength.

We are also learning hand-overcasting, the slipstitch, the basting stitch, the backstitch, the blanket stitch, buttonhole stitch (using buttonhole twist thread), and the invisible hem stitch. We also learned how and when to use beeswax!

There were some other techniques and stitches taught as well! One that I didn't master was the thread chain. This particular decorative stitch is used to attach the lining to the skirt or for belts, for example.

We also learned about threads and needles (size 9 sharps are best for hand-sewing; cotton, polyester, mix of cotton polyester or silk finish cotton threads are all used frequently (she recommends high quality imported threads, like Guterman or Mettler).

Unexpectedly fun class!

I also stated I was going to post on my serger class - I've since decided not too - I read over my post and it was too defensive and a bit snarky. I wish this blog to be a positive sewing blog!

Hopefully, now I'll actually sew something:)

Vogue 1197 Re-Do & 1st Serger Garment!

2010-09-26T19:13:00.000-07:00

Hello Readers,
I've completed the Vogue 1197 tunic, pictured below (taking advantage of the evening light). . .

I made this garment twice (as I cut off the hem of this tunic 8" short on my first try last weekend!). And let's not talk about the stripes lining up on the previous garment! This was made with my vintage serger.

I wanted a garment that I could wear "jeggings" with - and this one was perfect. I bought the fabric at Mood, a knit jersey - with much more stretch than the pattern called for. For my second try, I made the tunic version in the smallest size - it had so much ease it was ridiculous! On the final garment I made the bust size 32, for example (and I am a RTW 38B-C).

I love the garment - the first one was a disaster in many ways - I even got lost serging the raglan sleeves.

Wow - serging is EASY and FAST! As you can see from the view below my serging is not quite right (no getting that fall bob haircut now!). I lazily used the cowl from my first version (and because I didn't buy enough fabric at Mood for the second version - I know don't ask). Normally I buy 2.5 yards not knowing what pattern I am going to do - but for some reason I thought I did this pattern with 2 years (60") - No, that was not enough.

I did a rolled hem on the sleeves and hem below. I didn't use "wooley nylon" as the pattern called for it - I don't know that I could find a wooley nylon in brown, to tell you the truth. . .

The hem is measured around 25.5 inches from the floor - all the way around.

I wore ballet flats for the picture, but these are my shoes of choice for this outfit.

This elastic below was my first try - some fold over lingerie elastic - it didn't work - you need an elastic with ALOT of stretch - so I ended up going with the 1/4" elastic the pattern suggested.

I'm fighting off a summer cold - but had to get the garment finished - it should have been finished last weekend!

Two other events:
(1) Took a learn to serge class - which was very helpful, and had some, let us say, interesting interactions (a later post which I have in draft); and,

(2) I'm taking the Couture Hand Stitch class on Pattern Review! I've bought the supplies but haven't done the assignments (yet!).

Pattern review is HERE.

Next sewing project, something "vintage-y."

Fantastic Series: Signe Chanel

2010-09-18T08:52:00.000-07:00

Dear Readers,

Thanks to Erica B!, I realized there was a series of fashion shows on the Sundance Channel.

I feel in love with a series called Signe Chanel. . .it's a french documentary that is a reality show featuring the wonderful seamstresses and teams of french seamstresses that turn eclectic Karl Lagerfeld's sketches into clothes. It feature the making of the collection in 2004/2005 30 days prior to the runway show (from sketches to runway). Episode One below.

Episode One above - in slightly diminished format.

It's fantastic. The series features Madame Martine, Madame Cecile and Madame Laurence - who amazingly from their own talent turn these sketches from Karl into Chanel one of a kind pieces in record time! Their skill is astounding. Nearly everything in the line is handstitched. And they are so quick.

You will meet 75 year old Madame Pouzieux who is the sole person that makes 100% of the braid for Chanel (but really enjoys her horses and foles). . .she made her own loom and does her own weaving. Coco met her after the war and commissioned her to make her unique braid, and she has been doing so every since. Interns have been out to learn her technique but so far no one can do it.

The show also highlights some of the superstitions involved in sewing. For instance, each wedding dress has a piece of hair of a single girl making it (she must braid a single strand of hair to ensure she marries). . . .or dropping scissor can mean death! If a garment falls to the floor - it will be loved. . . . there are many others. . .

Chanel is run like a business - but it apparently employs the best seamstresses in France. It was very easy to watch - even though subtitled.

It's actual on youtube in a very good definition at this THIS LINK (apparently copyright clearances are not an issue).

Have fun!

I was amazed. Now I want to increase my hand stitching skills. I see pattern review has an online class. Anyone ever take one?

Pammie

Vintage Serger - Did I do the right thing?

2010-09-17T17:22:00.000-07:00

Hello Readers,

A few months ago I asked you whether I should buy a serger - the answer was a general Yes!!

So, I've been looking for used Babylock Imagine Wave Sergers (the Enlighten, now) - which is normally on "sale" for my dealer for 1699 (Imagine 1399) but I "imagine" I could talk them down:) So, I've been scouring craigs list in the LA area with no luck.

Today I walk into my Bernina dealer who says, hey Pam (he knows me) we got an awesome machine in trade - the Bernina Bernette 334D (made by Juki) known as a real workhorse. Some of the sewers I know loved theirs. After checking reviews, I ended up buying it for 300.00 (which is a fair price) from the Bernina dealer - it's barely used. I had them thread it for me. It has a complicated threading system.

It's quiet, heavy with a great stitch - looks like a bear to thread and perhaps some fiddling with the tension may be necessary in the future.

I do return home and am generally pricing sergers just to ensure I paid a good price - and what do I find - a Babylock Imagine Wave Serger on Craigslist for 700.00. Ridiculouso I tell you. So, I have some mild remorse. In reality, I can afford to keep this one and try it and if I don't like it - eventually trade it back in to the dealer. . . I'm happy to get a serger but this was a slight impulse purchase. Any thoughts are appreciated.

Here above is a photo on the serger with my sewing "table" - I have no sewing "room." And below here are my materials stowed for some later sewing in the week. . . .

Thanks! Beautiful Blogger Award

2010-09-17T07:54:00.000-07:00

Thanks to Katie for this recommendation. I'm really bad at posting about myself (perhaps I'm not self-aware enough or alternatively, perhaps I'm too private) - however, I'm thrilled to have the time to post! Here are 10 things you don't know about me:

(1) I'm a former and current skateboarder. I love my Vans. Living in Ventura allows me to occasionally indulge this passion!

(2) I'm retired military (hurray! a retiree) - even though I am a practicing attorney - I'm retired from the Reserves as an Navy Oceanographer.

(3) I want to learn to play guitar and keep delaying buying one and/or getting lessons!

(4) I only have a few really close friends! (And none that sew garments:)). I'd rather have a few people I'm really close to than a group of friends who are not that close.

(5) I'm intensely loyal to my family and those close to me.

(6) I love living with my dogs (oh, wait, something you DON'T know!). . .okay then, I read voraciously - and my taste varies from Hemingway to slutty summer novels. The first novel I remember reading was Jaws.

(7) I'm love the energy of Los Angeles. And the fact, you can find any thing you want in terms of shopping or really, most entertainment!

(8) In my work life, I'm a perfectionist - but not so much at home - I tend to be a little bit more laid back and sloppy, if you will.

(9) I'm distantly related to both Kurt Vonnegut and William Bratton, one of the scouts on the Lewis and Clark expedition.

(10) I hate getting up early, and for that matter, must have my coffee in the morning - I really enjoy a good first cup.

Whew! I actually had difficulty coming up with ten things.

I send this award out to anyone who follows me - I would love to hear 10 things about you!

Colette Macaron Second Version Finished at Last!

2010-09-11T10:56:00.000-07:00

Hello Readers!

I've finally finished the Colette Macaron - despite a blunder with my blind stitch hem this morning.

I'm fairly pleased with it. I made it out of Echino Fabric (from the fabulous Sew-LA). . . which is a very thin cotton linen blend. I took my time to make the dress - and I think the two mistakes I made were: (1) the upper band isn't totally straight (I'm thinking of re-attaching), and (2) the side with the invisible zipper doesn't match!

(Update: Late morning day of post - the pictures on this blog convinced me to re-sew/re-attach the upper midriff band - it looks a lot better now!!). I've posted the pix below:

I did some new techniques on this dress - I stabilized the neck with silk ribbon and did the armholes the same way. I lined the dress with a very thin high quality cotton - although I've had a hard time getting the lining perfect.

I topstitched both the neckline and sleeves because of the light weight quality of the fabric and lining - I couldn't get these areas to lay perfect despite a large amount of steaming and pressing. I even understitched, to no avail. I believe the topstitching corrected this tendency of the fabric to roll.

Here is the side of the fabric where I actually matched the sides correctly.

I also bought a rolled hem foot and I LOVE IT! I blindstitched the hem and then used the rolled foot on the lining - wow! I need to perfect this technique but I really do like it.

I also used a cotton thread (rather than polyester) in sewing the rolled hem and I believe that helped! Ah, the wonders of feet.

Finally, I include a picture of the garment on my dressform!

For the pattern review, click Here.

Progress on Macaron

2010-09-06T20:26:00.000-07:00

Dear readers,

Yes! I've finally 90% done with the Macaron.

All I need to do is press and hem tomorrow!

Here I am below lining up the skirt to the bodice. . .

Here, I actually took the time to line up

and mark the straight lines so that the

waistline is seemingly straight. . .

I am doing a quick lining. Which means lining to the

neck and sleeve line. So to reinforce the neckline and sleeves

I have not only used my lightweight interfacing but also

sewing in some silk ribbon I had bought "just in case" for this

project! It has worked out wonderfully. I also used the silk

ribbon to line invisible zipper to reinforce it.

Of course, every project has its mistakes it seems. Two of mine: I couldn't figure out the lining! For example, my last dress I lined easily - but now I remember that it has a back zipper - this dress has a side zipper. I must have forgot how I did the lining on my other macaron!

And, I made my usual error of cutting a hole in the lining by mistake, so I patched it on the inside with a good luck shamrock - it didn't alter the pattern, thankfully, and it does not show! I have more to report when this is finished . . . . almost done!

Hope everyone had a wonderful weekend.

Macaron Again!

2010-08-29T16:07:00.000-07:00

Dear readers!
I'm attempting to refine my sewing. Hence, I am only completing the bodice and lining and working on precision.

This is the bodice to Colette Pattern Macaron. Although I made it before I was not happy with the results!! This is a basted version with a stitch size of 5.0. It still fits well!

The skirt will be made of the material below:

It's a Japanese fabric called Echino (it's a linen cotton mix) that I bought from Sew-LA.

I am lining it - although the pattern doesn't call for it. I chose a very light cotton material to line it. It is very thin - so hopefully it will work out well.

I am working to slowly fit the bodice and line the bodice (sleeveless) and I hope that this brings more precision to my work and more tailoring techniques. I need to improve my technique! Today I plan to finish the bodice and lining and attach to the bodice only! I am trying to slow down.

Finally, my dressform is exactly my size with the exception of the waist - which I padded. Thanks P90X! I am going to start working out for another 90 days of that program - so I guess it's conceivable I could get smaller than my dressform (oops!!). I hope so:)

Yes, I actually wore my project in Alaska!

2010-08-24T23:39:00.000-07:00

All,
I'm back from a work trip and a few days off in Alaska - which was very wild and wonderful.

On our trip to Denali National Park, after a very long day in the park hiking - I wore my fuzzy creation.

I actually DO wear what I sew . . . .now onto the alternations now that I am back:)

Kwik Sew 3621 Finished - Last Polartec of the week . . .

2010-08-11T17:48:00.000-07:00

Yeah!!
Polartec project 2 finished.

Yes, I finally finished another project - Kwik Sew 3621 - which, by the way is simply not made for Polartec. I wanted to make a jacket out of my Polar material that was not quite so "sporty." So, I chose a pattern that was for a cover-up. I love the pattern and will probably use it again soon!

It's perfect for beach wear. My material was Micro-Polartec fleece. Unfortunately, for me I ran out of material and substituted some earlier and heavier Polartec (300) for the hood.

The end result is the hood was definitely difficult to get straight because of the thickness of the layers (6 layers??). I want to rip it out now and put in some bamboo jersey! But since I finished even the inside seams I will wait until I return from Alaska for this! Perfect pattern - the only problems I had were with my sewing!

First, I do need some advice about how to sew straight lines. As you can tell I had to resew the lines three-four times for the front panel. Perhaps it was the thickness of the material but I even had trouble with my Colette pattern a few months ago. Tips are welcome - I'm careful when I sew to use an exact 1/4" seam (in this case) and I'm pretty careful with cutting the materials. . . I may just need to "season" as a seamstress, or alternatively, take private lessons.

The other difficulty with this pattern is that I had trouble finishing the sleeves and bottom. I've since ordered finished stretch binding from www.questoutfitters.com and am awaiting the arrival of this wonder material. I tried fleece binding with no success - it's a bit sturdy. So for the sleeves I used a stretch finished elastic binding (the same kind used for lingerie) and it worked pretty well. When I return from my trip and receive the stretch binding I am going to redo the hem on this item.

Has everyone seen Colette post on 10 ways to ruin your sewing. I believe I failed items #1 - #4. Seriously, I need to work on this.

Finally, it's a bit ridiculous that I am "sewing" all this polar fleece since I do live a mile or two from Patagonia HQ - and an outlet is nearby.

But, I can't help it - I want what I want and some of the Patagonia designs are simply not "fashion forward" enough for me. Although I am not suggesting that my designs are there yet! That said - I'm pausing my other two polartec projects (I think) until my return. Plus, I can't wait to sew with non-polar fabrics:) A nice cotton dress, please.

New Pattern Purchases

2010-08-08T14:38:00.000-07:00

Hello dear readers,

I've taken advantage of the 3.99 sale at Joann's for Vogue and even splurged on some Kwik Sew Patterns (and one Burda) . . . .

Onto the Vogues . .

The dress to your left, Vogue 1137 gets excellent reviews and the coat is wonderful too. I might actually make this rather than the pattern sitting in my stash (as some Vintage patterns tend to do)!

Both the dresses above, the popular Vogue 1190 and 1192 are fantastic - I love the pattern on both although I don't have a date to make these - they are stash-bound for now - but I think I might make 1192 this fall!

Vogue 1197, above, is right down my alley - I am making this as soon as possible after my trip - I have some black jeggings that are screaming for a nice tunic but still casual wear.

Finally, Vogue 8675 - pictured below. . . I'm unsure of - I'd like to make a nice stretchy jacket (although the pattern does not call for such). . . it has no reviews so it may be a bit iffy - we'll see!

I'm going to go sew now - but I'll be back later either to post a new creation, or to show my Kwik Sew splurges!

Polartec, Polartec, Polartec . . .

2010-08-07T22:57:00.000-07:00

Hello dear readers,

Well, I've sewn my first piece of Polartec acquired from San Francisco and Seattle. It's the old faithful Kwik Sew 3070.

Here is an action pose, again, not that exciting, but we do what we can.

One note on this tried and true pattern - as I reported last time - lots of ease. J. and I have been embarking (and now almost finished) on P90X - we've both lost a few inches and pounds. J. has a 37" waist and hips and his 34 waist RTW is baggy. I cut this a Medium (thinking I cut a Large last time and it was too big). I had to recut to a Small - and so I am thinking that this pattern runs huge. I tailored the pants more after taking this picture late this evening so the fit is even a bit better.

I would say if you are a man and have a measured waist size less than 34" - you simply could not wear this pattern (and maybe, nor would you want to - it's not exactly fashionable). But perfect for Polartec 200.

Poor men - I can see fitted clothing (and really, just the size of the collections) is none-existent to very very small. It must be challenging. Which seems strange, as I know a host of men who sew - or who have sewn in their past!!

I also put in a drawstring cord, contrast pockets and a small D. Ring so that J. can put the doggie bags somewhere for his morning outings with the dogs.

Up soon: Vogue purchases, Simplicity 2603 cozy cutdown (looks great! and feels less heavy), and onto three more Polartec projects. . .

Deconstructing and Reconstructing Vogue 8634

2010-08-06T14:55:00.000-07:00

Well, as you know I made a big wadder earlier this week, luckily I turned the remaining fabric into Vogue 8634 - which I have done before.

I also found the pattern to be very large - and took off about 3-4 inches off the Large size. I have lost some inches and the Large was big before.

As a remedy, today I was buying 3.99 patterns at Joann's and actually bought a Medium - so this is my go-to pattern when other's fail - and the Medium should be a better fit in the future - you can see that it is still a bit large between my arms and chest.

Again, a bit boring but at least it's something. I'm heading to Alaska in 10 days so all my sewing now is Alaska bound, meaning a lot of polartec!

But, before I get started I may tailor my Simplicity 2603 Cozy - I'm simply sick of all the heavy fabric!

My first project back - Wadder! (Of course)

2010-08-04T09:20:00.000-07:00

Hi All,

I'm back from intense work matters - and guess what? My first project, wadder! Just like last summer when I first took up garment sewing! Of course. The pattern is Vogue 8650.

I'm sorry I didn't take a photo - my morale was low and I immediately began reconstructing the garment into a cowl top - which I will post as soon as I complete the details. Here is the link to my "not recommended" pattern review: Pattern Review Link.

Why a wadder? The pattern was huge - I cut the smallest size (14) - and I was absolutely swimming in it (even after pleats). For my body shape it was not a flattering style - I think the pleats in the chest area are a big "NO" for me.

However, I did lose 10 pounds and am on P90X, day 84. So, I've lost a cup size on my bust, two inches in my back area, 2 inches waist, and 2 inches hips - so it may be that I am smaller - but I cut a 14 - which is a 36 bust and in reality I am a 37-38" bust measurement - and it was gigantic!

BTW, has everyone seen Simplicity's "Go Green" patterns - they are kind of fun - here is the Go Green Link.

When I was up in Seattle, I visited Seattle Fabrics (an outdoor-adventure fabric store) - and bought tons of fabric. So, I am working on some projects for an Alaska trip! I will list them in a separate post -but it was quite a few Green Pepper patterns.

Tips I've Learned from my Janome Sewing Machine Class

2010-07-09T10:52:00.000-07:00

Readers,

I'm sadly overtaken by events so I'm not sewing until July 30. BUT, in the meantime . . .

I did want to post some pictures with regard to my machine class - and I have gotten some emails requesting that I do so.

This post is relevant to Janome Electronic Machines (I have a TB Threadbanger TB30) but can also be applied to their other electronic machines (The TB 30 is just a relabeled Home Decor 4030).

I guess the first thing to discuss is that I did read the brief and relatively unhelpful manual that came with the machine. But, since I had a Singer 15 years ago - I thought "No biggie." I thought I knew the best way to insert the bobbin and thread a needle. Fail!

As the picture above illustrates, one must wrap the thread around the slight metal tab on the shank before the thread goes through the eye of the needle. Duh! BTW, it was in the manual (which is slight) and I missed it.

In addition, the bobbin should be placed in one direction ONLY - the illustration shows this but I didn't think it was mandatory, rather it was a suggestion!! Ok, that makes sense (NOW!)

The stitch number 3 to the right I'm pointing at below- should be used for stretch knits, and other stretch materials, (and I always used the zig--zag!!).

In addition, the stitch I'm pointing to below (5 to the right), should be used for Elastics!!! According to my surly instructor, all my garments with elastics may now pull out. We haven't experienced this but I warned Jonathan regarding his boxers:)

Finally, the button I'm pointing to below normally makes a knot in your stitch, eliminating the need for a back stitch - the instructor does not recommend it - BUT I LOVE IT!

Behind the needle, on the back of the machine is the feed dog drop - I couldn't find it before, for some reason:)

And, Lastly, we were taught how to sew without using our legs and feet - it's the auto option for sewing. I was skeptical at first but in reality it is very very easy . . . . I can control my pressure on the foot pedal and speed either by my feet or by hand. . .Weird, huh?

In all, Janome should produce a user friendly manual, instead of the ridiculously brief materials they produce. I mean, what about everyone buying on the internet. I didn't but I live in the Los Angeles area, meaning I have a lot of choices. And because some of the mechanical techniques are different - if you've previously sewn on a different brand, the machine is not intuitive.

Dear Goodness, I was just browsing Theads and found this link
Unique Body Scans on body scan measurements! I might do it if I could get a sloper out of it!

DIY Straps - At least it's something

2010-06-18T16:58:00.000-07:00

Readers,

As you know I have been slow to sew on the homefront!! But I did sew some straps:)

I bought this wonderful strapless Anthro. dress - but I hate strapless (I forgot that). I can't hold up a strapless dress for more than 20 minutes. Even with a sweater or jacket over.

So, I traced some dark blue knit jersey straps from another Anthro blouse I love:

and ta-da - instead straps and really, it feels like a whole new dress. I will post the pattern I drafted in another link (when I figure out how to do it!) in the next day or two.

It did take longer than I thought! Almost two hours tracing cutting pinning.

I tried to stabilize it as well - but on the knit fabric - it made the straps too tight. I also top stitched all the way around the top (it doesn't really stand out) to secure the straps (reinforcing with a triple stitch where the strap hit the bodice).

The picture shows some wrinkles but I didn't think to straighten them out - it was enough getting J. to snap the picture. Super comfy - it has a built in mustard yellow crinoline. And I think the straps make it a bit more vintagy. It's not much in terms of sewing but at least it's something! Maybe this will convince me to buy more strapless patterns to "convert."

But, some good news, since I've been doing P90x (week 6) my dressform and I are the same size (except at the waist) - hurrah! Finally.

Fabric from Hawaii and New Addition

2010-06-16T09:56:00.000-07:00

Fabric from Hawaii!

I apologize for the delay in my posts. Two large family unexpected matters have been taking up all my time. More on that later in the post, but now, and more importantly for the purposes of this blog - I enclose two swatches of the Fabric I choose in Hawaii.

I went to Fabric Mart in Hawaii and quite frankly, was underwhelmed - I don't wear tropical fabric on a daily basis (well, I try not to - I'm originally from Florida and am trying to cultivate a rock-n-roll style (I do live in LA now) with a 1950s sensibility. So, I think the yellow fabric can be made in a vintage dress for when I return to Hawaii for two weeks to teach next Jan/Feb.

WRT to the blue fabric - I don't love the color - it's blue spandex/bathing suit material - but the women surfers caught my eye. Again, I prefer bathing suit fabric in brown (I think that looks best on me!). I didn't really need either fabric and I'm a minimalist with my "stash." I used to be a quilter and had tons of fabric I never used but loved. I bought the fabric to support local business in Hawaii. Honolulu is experiencing recession, like everyone else in the country. With some exceptions I try to support local business and sewing shops when I travel.

I did buy a purse in Bronze (metallics are so in) and my toes are gold right now:) I only buy purses every few years or so . . . there was another purse that I actually fell in love with - but it was much more expensive and a bit flashier.

WRT family issues, J.'s mother passed away (it was expected and quick) and my father was in a bad car accident (not his fault) - like most of the lawyers, I am the family consigliere.

J. was lucky to obtain his mother's sewing machine - a wonderful Singer Featherweight 221 from 1934 (we checked the serial number on the Singer sight and downloaded a manual). Which now resides in our home:) I am having it tuned up this week - but it does sew now! I enclose pictures below!

Finally, I have a post that is coming soon - concerning my sewing machine class I took - I read it and it's so boring! But I will probably post for educational purposes for other Janome users - you are warned:)

Sewing Machine Class

2010-05-22T08:33:00.000-07:00

Well, I received a flyer from my dealer advertising a 3 hours Introduction to your sewing machine. I've never attended, although I bought my Janome Threadbanger TB 30 late last summer.

OMG! It turns out I wasn't threading the machine absolutely perfectly. Second, the bobbin should only go in one direction (!!). That's why the machine is sometimes whisper quiet and sometimes NOT! I wasn't using the correct stitch for elastic (it's the light colored zig zag). I wasn't using the correct stitch for knits (my machine has a modified stitch for knits/jersey instead of zig zag). And, I was using the overlock stick which I should have been using the overcast stitch for garment making. I also learned the concept of dropping the feed dogs:) Well, readers, I shall not make that mistake again.

But I did get the card of a Palmer/Pletsch instructor. I may give her a call on my way back from Hawaii.

What? Hawaii? Yes, I am making a last minute work trip to Hawaii. You know what that means - I may attempt some tropical fabric shopping! I hear Hawaii Fabric Mart is a good place to go. And, I do remember shopping in the industrial area which seemed to be a fabric district about 10 years ago when I was quilting! I doubt I'll go there but I'm up for Hawaii Fabric Mart - to find some good Japanese prints.

Sorry, I haven't been sewing much lately - I've just been very busy and traveling a moderate amount.

Liberty of London Fabrics - an obsession

2010-05-09T09:05:00.000-07:00

First, Happy Mother's Day!

About three weeks ago I developed an obsession over Liberty fabrics. I bought the "Liberty" boots from Target for rainy days.

I also developed a Liberty Blog obsession: I loved Gertie's Cecil Chapman Tribute Dress, re-read Eugenia's Liberty Wisdom and gazed in awe at her Shirt. I fell in with deep admiration over Peter's Wonderful Shirt.

What have you made readers? I'd love to know! I'd also be very interested to see why Liberty is so special (and expensive) - is the cotton soft? Pliable? What is it that makes it wonderful other than the print?

It does seem that "Liberty" fabrics are all over the internet these days. I am going to make a Liberty print - I've got to pick the right pattern first.

I've been traveling (to DC) and was unusually tired the past week so I apologize for my dearth of posts or sewing. I didn't even visit *gasp* any fabric stores! Crazy talk, I know!

A Liberty knit below:

Kwik Sew 3115 Yoga Pants

2010-04-19T22:31:00.000-07:00

Yes, I joined the multitude of others making the famed Kwik Sew 3115 pants, using my black Polartec 200 fabric (which had the necessary stretch needed using the test on the back of the pattern envelope).

This pattern - Kwik Sew 3115, a well-known and much-loved pattern, is highly reviewed on Pattern Review. I needed another quick sewing fix so I decided to use my comfy Polartec 200 fabric on the pattern.

Yes, it did take only 2 hours. Hurray! Did it turn out wonderful the first time with no muslin?

Actually, no. But I really like the pants. I will post a pattern review later this week. I do think this pattern (as suggested on the envelope) is more suited toward a jersey knit than my selected Polartec fabric.

Readers, these are my future necessary alterations: cut the pants an inch or two longer; cut a deeper back crotch seam in the back of the pant - they seem a bit shallow in the rise and consequently, the fit. I also discovered that the pants are a bit too low rise because of what I think is a shallow inseam in the back area (a deeper "scoop" is needed). Next time, I will not (hopefully) have to add a corded drawstring (as you see in the picture) because of: (1) incorrect fabric choice; and (2) incorrect elastic choice (1" elastic from my stash instead of the 3/8" elastic that the directions called for).

I did make an medium and that seems very accurate. Will I make again? Definitely. Even though they are not perfect - they are perfectly comfy and I wore them today to dog training class!

P.S. I do not do Yoga. Ever. I have failed at the art of yoga. However, I really like the idea of yoga, associated "yoga" clothes, yoga studios and people that do yoga. Let's just say I'm not very "stretchy" and leave it at that, readers.

A weekend of Knits

2010-04-18T18:36:00.000-07:00

Well, I took the easy road and instead of the walk-away dress, now on hold - I completed two easy confidence building projects. Which left me with some fun items and check, check, two projects done. The first up, was Vogue 8634 - made from a very golden Organic Bamboo Jersey Knit from Michael Levine in LA's fashion district.

As you can see below - it's not perfect - but hey - what do you want in less than two hours folks (Yes, I'm serious - it was extremely easy!).

I will post more details on the sewing issues I explored on my pattern review post but suffice it to say in short: it runs slightly large - I made a Large and should have made a Medium. I took almost 4 inches off the sides. I used view A but ended up adding a strip to make it longer (from View C).

In addition, since this was a jersey knit - I didn't need to serge or overcast. I would also make the cowl differently than the pattern directions call for. My recommendation is for a a single piece of fabric as the cowl. The directions call for a large folded over piece. This method makes the top too heavy. I recently bought a cowl neck from Anthropologie below - and that was the strategy used - a single piece of jersey for the cowl - not folded over.

I chose the color to rib J. He loves this color and every time he wears it I groan - it's his favorite color - and one I have vehemently disliked (in the past). But, a-la, now I have my matching "J. shirt." If you can't beat 'em join 'em. I will make this again I'm sure - but will pick a slightly lighter fabric (this was a bit thick) and in a better color for me - probably a blue or grey. In all actuality - if I put a strip on it - I could wear this as my Charlie Brown shirt come October:)

I also made some Polartec Yoga pants - but I will save this for a later post! Less than two hours again! Yeah! I'm all for the quick and dirty sew, readers!

Snow Dog

2010-04-14T18:13:00.000-07:00

Although this is mostly a "look what I sewed" and "help, I'm stuck with a sewing project" blog - I also report activities with my doggies. Yesterday, I had the chance to visit Sequoia/Kings Canyon on a return trip from Central California and ran into over 24 feet of snow. Paddy loved it. It's hard to believe it's sunny here on the coast and four hours away - it's still winter in the Sierra Nevada!

Did I mention we ran into a coyote? Pretty menacing! After hearing stories in Ojai regarding the sneaky behavior of coyotes now I know why the cartoonist that drew Roadrunner was always torturing Wil E. Coyote. . .

Walking away from the "Walkaway Dress"

2010-04-11T20:40:00.000-07:00

Well, I'm about one day (or less) from "walking away" from the walkaway dress!

The dress I'm discussing is Butterick 4790 - a reproduction pattern. This dress definitely failed the tissue fit. And, I'm not considering a muslin (I need a quick sewing fix!). And I don't think I can work it out.

WRT this patter - As Gertie's Post somewhat seemingly suggested - it's not that tailored as it could be (I would suggest almost kitschy); as Katie's Blog pointed out - the pattern is extremely hard to fit correctly; and finally, as experienced sewer Rachel pointed out - the results are iffy. Although it was wildly popular I wonder how well drafted this pattern really was from the start. . . .

So the known problems are: (1) This pattern requires tons of fabric - approx. 4.5 yards; (2) Circle skirt pulls back down severely during wear; and (3) short skirt in front rides up terribly and catches the knees. I think that sums it up.

Here's my problem - I want to use somewhat expensive fashion fabric (Echino gauze from Japan). Below is the front piece and for the contrast fabric I have the same fabric but reverse colors.

Then I plan to line the front half to weigh it down a bit. However, even in the tissue fitting - the back pulled way down. The tissue fel like it was just off. Part of the problem was the tissue included the full circle skirt. I could easily adjust the bust darts and do a full shoulder adjustment. My other worry is that I bought the pattern too large. The smallest size is 16 and in this pattern I am a 12 or 14 - but can scale it down to fit, if needed. The tissue wasn't that large - but it was wonky.

I did plan to bring up the hem to just above the knees instead of keeping it long. I can add a crinoline if needed. I did plan to make the adjustments that others suggest (extra buttons and snaps around the skirt) to keep the fit correct and the back from pulling down.

I also wanted to wear it with these boots!!

I just don't think this is the best option right now! The tissue fit seemed generally "off." What do you say readers, should I continue on - am I giving up the fight too quickly - or heed the wise bloggers advice - and walk away?

Colette Macaron Finally Finished!

2010-03-29T19:11:00.000-07:00

Finally! I finished the Colette Macaron on Sunday.

Really, the difficult part was putting the lining in and having to construct the dress with a fabric with squares on it (plaid-inspired). Bottom line: Love the pattern; initially, I didn't love the result - the lining was a bear - but today (the next day) I do like it much better. . .if I can look past the flaws....Colette Patterns did excellent drafting - it's my sewing skills that need improving. Maybe I'll add a belt (like Gertie's Macaron ). . .or a thick belt . . .

If I didn't line it and if I had selected a more simple fabric - I could finished the dress in five hours. I had the body done minus sleeves in four. The lining took 8 hours. I'm serious. I used silk. What was I thinking?

And another newbie error - I slashed the lining and had to repair with my shears. I marked it with a stitch box and I'm going to repair it this week.

If you check the fit - I think that the top was much too large. I didn't notice this on my muslin - I really should pay more attention. I should have gone two sizes smaller - I started on a fourteen and really I think the ten would have been fine - I had to talk quite a bit out of it. However, the muslin seemed tight - it was cotton. I also loved that the patterns is cut for a "C" cup. Hurray!
(BTW, I just noticed that string! Darn it!).

I do think it's mistake to pick wool and lining for this pattern - I like the dress but the wool (even thin) is too thick for the cute pattern. I would make this dress again - but would not use wool or line.

I must have put in the sleeves three times because of the lining - recut the waistband belt - three times due to unevenness - it's still not 100% perfect. I had major mistakes in the lining - due to the fact that my machine had quite a bit of trouble with the silk. I even bought sharp (70 gauge) needles and tried both cotton and embroidery thread - huge numbers of skipped stitches. I still don't know why? I found, however, a piece of what appears to be the machinery on the table - a screw - maybe I need to take the machine in. I also (because of way the pattern was drafted) sewed in by hand the sleeve lining (yuck!!). Oh, my poor lining.

To the right - please find a picture of the silk lining and wonderful soft lace I picked up at Mood.
more to follow!

My pattern review link is Here.

Very close to being done with the Colette Macaron

2010-03-21T19:41:00.000-07:00

I'm so close. . . I've finished the dress minus the sleeves and the lining.

I'm stuck on the lining - if no lining - I'd have those sleeves set in - in less than an hour. . . I don't apparently have the correct needle for china silk (or silk) I need a 60-70 according to Threads and I've been using 90. In addition, Sandra Betzina(sp?) recommends cotton embroidery thread if you're really using a small needle. I can't sew my outfit because the lining keeps skipping stitches so tomorrow - more needles:)

By the way, this pattern fits excellent - it does run large though - I cut a 10 below and 14 top and really had to take a lot in - even though I made a muslin . . .

I also had some problems in the construction since I chose checks instead of a general print - which I solved (I think) - I will detail more of my sewing during the review once my item is done!

Sorry about the bad picture - J. took it with my iphone . . .

Britex Fabrics Polartec 200 Purchase

2010-03-17T22:30:00.000-07:00

Greetings all!

I have recently had the chance to visit Britex Fabrics in San Francisco - I bought two yards of Polartec 200 fabric - in black (2 yards) and clover (almost a sage, 2 yards) to make some comfy pants for J. and I.

I also bought a variety of "frogs" and some scissors (which I plan to use to cut my dogs fall near their eyes) - I had a hole (as usual in the elbow area) in my favorite black cashmere sweater and "was forced" to repair it:).

Overall impressions were - excellent fabric selections - BUT, ridiculously expensive (though the polartec was 15.99 a yard). Now, after purchasing this fabric - I researched Polartec 200 and found out it's sold for 10.99 a yard direct from Polartec at the PolarTec Mill Website. Bummer! But, at least it lead to me finding these great fabrics directly from the Mill in the future - and much more than the Polartec 200. . .in addition, Britex tells me they their Polartec from Los Angeles - apparently I'm missing a link somewhere.

I picked out a houndstooth print (wool) remnant and shockingly, it was $125.00 a yard. More ridiculous though, was the fact that some cashmere remnants were $350.00 a yard (I can buy excellent quality cashmere in LA for 69.00) - although readers I do note that my sewing skills don't warrant any cashmere purchases at this point.

I understand it's just off Union Square, but really - that is way to much for me to contemplate! I would classify Mood as the Target/Nordstrom of the Fabric world compared to Britex (and Mood as you isn't THAT cheap!). . . .Britix is more like Saks full price or Barnies (full price). That being said, they clearly have the market on buttons!! Fantastic - unfortunately I'm good on buttons right now. . .

I could have gone to many other stores in the Bay area - but really I only had time for a short jaunt!

Can't wait to get home and do some sewing this weekend. Pixie had an emergency room visit by our emergency vet (ie. not our free base vet) and by an emergency dog ophthalmologist - she punctured her cornea but is fine (of course, all while I'm up in San Francisco!). . .

Well, these are all my visiting fabric purchases until July - when I intend to hit up Seattle Fabrics. . .

To Serge or Not to Serge

2010-03-14T10:31:00.000-07:00

Hello readers,

I'm going to San Francisco tomorrow for a conference but hope to get an hour or two of fabric shopping as well! I'm now researching fabric shops!
But I do have a question for you - to serge or not to serge??

I'm facing a conundrum - I can afford a nice serger - for example check out this new Pfaff industrial serger and table on Craigslist in LA for 1200 (see photo above) . . . . but I am not sure my sewing skills warrant this shopping endeavor - I've checked out a few sergers - for example, a nice mid-level serger from Janome starts at 299 and go up from there (my dealer is right down the street from my house). I've actually owned a Singer mini-serger when I made Christmas costumes for Biloxi Baptist Church in the mid-nineties - it worked like a charm. I've read the reviews on Pattern Review - and kinda like the Babylock Imagine (minus the price. . . ) . . .

Sew (haha), the big question is - To serge or not to serge?? I see
Amanda's Blog doesn't serge and produces beautiful clothing. I do have an overlock/serging stitch on my machine but it is very very slow (and uses all my bobbin thread) . . .and the stitches themselves are messy. . . .

Is serging necessary? I almost think it is.

Slow goes the blogging: Macaron Muslin

2010-03-13T09:09:00.000-08:00

Yes, I've been very slow to blog - a hurt ankle and a trip to Virginia are to blame! I completed the Colette Macaron Muslin last weekend - here are my findings:

1) Great pattern!! Fantastic!! Almost perfect fit.
2) Needed alterations:
a. Forward shoulder (I did this on the muslin)
b. I need to change the darts to make them point to the correct location on my bust. . .
c. The band under the bust must be significantly lengthened (some other
reviewers report this as well!)
d. I need some pleat advice - I am looking up some pleat techniques to see which are more flattering - I am also moving the placement of the pleats so
they are not so far apart.
e. Need to scale down the hips significantly - the skirt is very very large in the hips.

So, I tried to find interesting fabric stores in Norfolk/Va. Beach to no avail. So, I bought some shoe laces (blue) and gave my lightweight hiking boots a "makeover."
I also include my heavy boots - I may change those laces out too - they look a bit "lumberjacky."

I hope to complete at least one version of the Macaron in the next two weeks.

Snowboard Injury!

2010-02-26T21:44:00.000-08:00

Hi! I'm finally back - 10 days ago I went snowboarding and sustained a mildly fractured ankle. No biggie - but I was pretty bummed out! My nurse mother is like, You are a wimp - wrap it and ice it, dummy! I can walk on it, thankfully and it really never hurt that much ..'

Here's a picture of me after the injury - BTW, I refused to acknowledge I had an injury until I returned to the car. I also snowboarded down the run as well.

It was the last run of the day too! So wrong!

So, I haven't done much sewing - but I have cut out the muslin for the Colette dress and am trying it out tomorrow after first round of sewing.

More to follow and I promise to be better about blogging:)

Here's my last photo . . . 45 minutes from Los Angeles. . .

My sewing plans

2010-02-07T17:53:00.000-08:00

Hello - if I haven't mentioned I'm thrilled to be retired from the Reserve I definitely am this weekend! I've actually had time to think about friends and family!
Here's my fabric for the first Colette Macaron:

It is stretch medium wool - hopefully - it's not too thick! The grey is for the body and the brown for the contrast. I am probably not going to use the contrast piece under the bustline.

I cut out the pattern for the Colette Macaron - I have yet to tissue fit.

I want to make two dresses - once I get it perfected. Because I'm a new person to garment sewing and because the pattern is a bit complicated - I'm making a full muslin.

Here is the Echino gauze fabric for the second Colette dress. I am using the grey for the body and the same print in brown for the contrast. I will line this dress as well

Both dresses are going to be lined.

In more controversial news - most sewers do NOT like the Butterick Walkaway dress in terms of fit - I want to make one to wear for St. Patty's Day.

I have this hat - now I just need materials.

I am full figured - and I'm going to "weight" the front fabric heavier (I hope!) - to eliminate the pull to the back that everyone seems to be experiencing upon wearing.

Tips anyone??

Update: Kwik Sew 3576!

2010-01-31T13:57:00.000-08:00

Update: 6 Feb: I altered the dress: I took off an inch on each side and in my waist area - I also took 1 inch off the total length - I do think it's a better fit. In addition, I took out that wonky hem tape and did a blind stitch hem (which is never blind to me - I can always see it).

I've been busy today doing alterations - two original jeans hems (1 skinny black Hudson and a drawstring white True Religion). In addition, I took in two shirts and one dress.

----------
Hurray!! I said I'd make some adult clothing and I did it. This isn't a great picture - I may retake and repost. . . The dress fits much better I think.

This is Kwik Sew 3576.

I made view B. In actuality - I actually thought I cut out View A - I even did a tissue fitting (but no muslin). Somehow I missed the V neck! Oops. I had already decided against the View A pockets as I was freaked out by the belt - I made some bad belts by hand in my Elvis' project so I was already relegaded to making View A without the pockets - when "Surprise" and oops -a "V" neck!

This is some material I bought in the mid-90s when I was quilting and thought "I could make a suit." I only bought two yards though. Tight cutting.

Here is a view from the back - I didn't fully steam this before taking the pictures (sorry!). I like the length - it could be a bit shorter - the grey tights really hide the length - I do think it's the correct length. I am also wearing my new glasses which I love!

Here are all the new skills I learned:

(1) Lining - I saw Katie bought and skillfully used the book from Connie Long on Linings - since I saw what a great job she was doing - I wanted it in a rush and thankfully checked it out from the library. I sewed the lining mostly by machine and did Ms. Long's quick lining method - the pattern didn't come with lining so I cut my own templates.

(2) Understitching - I had to look that term up to figure out what it is - it's basically a stitch on the lining/facing side of the fabric that adheres the selvedge from the facing/lining toward the inside of the fabric to ensure a nice fold.

(3) Invisible Zipper with Lining - both new to me - the invisible zipper pretty easy - in my picture I could have brought it up .3 - .5 inches to the top. I followed zipper instructions which required the zipper .75 from the top - now I have to sew in a catch (which can be a little itchy).

(4) Tailoring - I made a Large - I could have gotten away easily with a Medium - I didn't make it super tight - I wanted to wear something underneath the dress and perhaps teach class and tight is never good for that reason but I've agreed with J. to take it in some if I lose more weight (I've lost 12 lbs in the last six weeks - I've been trying to but nothing dramatic).

(5) Hem on this dress - well, I cheated and used hem tape but if and when that comes apart - I'll hand hem with a nice lacing. I don't know why I didn't do that in the first place (Update: Hate the hem tape - I'm replacing it and hand hemming this weekend - and I'm taking up the hem .5 inches).

(6) Attached lacing to the dress -as you can see it's backward but I am not resewing - no one can see it and I'm happy with it. It's the cheap kinda itchy lace from JoAnns - which is ridiculous cause I was at Mood yesterday and could have bought inexpensive high quality lace!

(7) Learned to match a plaid pattern - perfect except on a portion of the back - I didn't use interfacing on the zipper (I know - I know! It's a sewing sin) - and I think that caused a stretch and the plaids not to match in the lower back of the dress.

Also, I wanted to review some PJs I did last week. It's my old pattern I use - Kwik Sew 3271 View B - I used a Michael Miller fabric in flannel. I made the mistake of using some shirring to try to match some Antho pants - but after running through a bobbin with no shirring effect - I finally found out - flannel is near impossible to shirr .. in fact, anthro used cotton. I barely then salvaged the project into the Kwik Sew - now they are nice to hang around the house and sew (I have on a comfy cashmere sweater with them!).

My next project up is the (roll the drums, boys) - Collette Macaron. I originally was going to make it in a Echino fabric gauze but have committed to a stretchy comfy wool blend with China Silk. I'll post more on this - this week - I expect that this project will take two to three weeks since I really need to go slow. I am also planning on lining this project. . .

First gold star on PR & new patterns! All in one day:)

2010-01-21T18:41:00.000-08:00

Exciting news:) I received my first gold star on pattern review! Hurray!
Thanks everyone!!

Well, as you all know by now - I'm a bit late to the party with my post - but
there are exciting new patterns out by the Big 3 and Kwik Sew.

I did find an exciting top by Kwik Sew 3755 (see above). Some of you may remember this Anthropologie Post - where I coveted (and ultimately bought) this ultra expensive Anthro dress (which I've worn countless times now and love!). Although some of you correctly pointed out I could have made this very inexpensively. Now I can make my own dress and shirt! Here are the Anthro originals:

I do like some of the Vogue Vintage (I didn't realized they had vintage) - not newly issued but new to me. Here's one example Vogue Vintage 2960:

I also think Vogue 8634 would be easy and flattering:

Finally, did you see that new body shape key that is linked to every patterm to suggest the pattern for your body shape? I've copied the text below:

Figure Flattery:
Determine your body shape from the explanations below and use our KEY TO FIGURE FLATTERY diagram to select styles that are particularly flattering to your figure. Choosing styles suited to your body shape can also eliminate the need for most pattern adjustments. Look for the figure symbol that indicates your body shape, then proceed with confidence, knowing that your pattern adjustments will be minimal and your garment will be pure figure flattery.

THE INVERTED TRIANGLE: Large bust and/or broad shoulders with narrow hips

THE TRIANGLE: Small bust and/or narrow shoulders with full hips and/or thighs.

THE RECTANGLE: Balanced on top and bottom, but boxy, with little or no waist definition.

THE HOURGLASS: Equally balanced on top and bottom, with a trim waist.

I wonder how accurate that is - That is to say that I am a inverted triangle but Vogue stills suggests my style for a small-waist project - we'll see......................

Time off to Sew!!

2010-01-15T19:17:00.000-08:00

Finally, I took two weeks off and really needed it. Last week my brother visited and we went to the BCS Rose Bowl. This week I slept and sewed. So, I've finished all my "crafty projects" (minus one more that is almost finished). Next, I'm on to the serious projects - real dresses with adult fabric (the Colette Macaron dress and a Kwik Sew 3576 dress).

So, in order of success (I'll post the pattern reviews separately but will summarize here):

1. Indygo Junction Best Bias Skirt (lined).

I needed to use up some of my "crafty fabric" after my mother didn't want an apron. So, I lined a skirt (with cotton - making it heavy but I live in temperate Ventura) - I ended up loving it. I'm not a huge fan of "unique pattern" skirts - but this will be great for Hawaii (I teach there frequently) and summer nights. This looks great with a tank but for the purposes of my blog - I wore a light cotton shirt (from Anthro). Another success was that I used a yardstick (and J.) to measure my hem. Finally, my back hem is perfect. I also learned lining.

The skirt reminds me of my college roommate - whose clothes I used to "borrow." Her mother would make her skirts - and they were comfy!!

2. Kwik Sew 3070.

Brown Wool Fleece elastic pants with pockets. J. couldn't be happier - he's barely taken them off. They run slightly large, by the way. We call them his "fuzzy bear" pants. Best thing: no overlock stitch needed. Here, I learned pockets!

3. Kwik Sew Boxers (Four Pairs!!).

I've made these before but did a production line of 2 boxers for Jonathan and 2 for my brother Todd. Note that the medium is much smaller than the large. Quite a difference. I also am having quality problems - none of these boxers is quite like the other ... Tip: Reinforce the fly with interfacing.

4. Apron. From "A" for Apron book. It's the "Provence Smock." I originally bought the book for the Lorelei apron. I will post extensively on this at pattern review.

In short - you have to enlarge the patterns yourself. Ok, that's no big deal. But the kicker is that the directions are largely and substantially incorrect throughout (reviewers on Amazon echo the same thing). And, when you cut out the patterns there are no directions. So, my straps and lining had to be recut. And I'm a RTW top size 12 - and I could use 2-3 inches of ease across the straps.

My research indicates it is not the designer's fault, rather - the publisher - the author provided the ingenious retro designs. The key is to think through the pattern spatially before cutting. And ignore the directions, Aprons are easy - so you don't really need the directions - but the pattern cutting has to be thought through (and I will measure if I make another).

I like this Apron but I don't love it. In the book they say many sewers wear this out of the house to cover T-shirts. Please note that I don't plan to wear this out of the house. Gardening, Yes. Writing stories, questionable. Farmers Market, No. On a cool scooter (like the model), I don't see it.

I learned sewing gathers on this smock.

5. Horrible Horrible Pants (great fit -scary fabric): Kwik Sew 3271 View B.

When I walk the dogs, neighbors and bystanders walk the other way. They are truly hideous from a fabric point of view. I learned how not to pick fabric and how to (or not to) get fabric designs to line (or match) up.

But fuzzy southwest fleece is very comfortable. Maybe if I go to Wyoming, I can wear them. I'm trying to justify a Frye boots purchase with this same reasoning, BTW.

The picture to the right is the back view.

I'm finishing up the last pair of flannel PJs (they are anthro knockoffs with a shirred waist!). And I will probably finish some alterations on a few items before beginning my "adult" projects.

Finally, if anyone knows how to post on Sewing Retro - I'm open to tips - I wanted to post "How NOT to sew Vintage" there but I can't figure it out. I keep sending them emails with no reply. Maybe I'm not providing enough information?

New Sewing Tool to start the New Year

2010-01-01T12:11:00.000-08:00

Well, now that I'm over the shock of 2010. Let's talk sewing.

Well, I really cleaned up for Christmas, in some ways. I did get a black pair of skinny Hudson jeans. I actually have to exchange them for a size down! (I'm on WW). But, more importantly I got an Oliso TG 1600 iron - the Mercedes of Sewing Irons from my parents!

The inventor (a San Francisco company) made it with his sewing mom in mind! It has an extra long cord and a 20 minute shutoff (perfect!). It also has a safety council award from 2008. It's so complex I don't know if I know all the features but I do like it so far. We have dogs - so my classic with no shutoff is a bad idea.

I know Hamilton Beach now has some similar irons (but my parents bought this one!). I could have probably bought a cheaper serger with a few more bones - but I really love this iron. Hurray. What luxury! I'll do a review on PR when I find out more how it really works!

Happy New Year - Welcome 2010!

2010-01-01T09:19:00.000-08:00

(Surfers' Point at Sunset)

I'm thrilled it's 2010 - I'm ready for new things. I start off this year Reserve-free as I retired (officially) at midnight last night - hurray!

(Walking the dogs New Years Eve 2009 Ventura Boardwalk)

I plan to fill the time writing stories, sewing, and (maybe) learning guitar.
We have a busy life with the Ps. I can already tell (from my reduced workload in the Fall) that I can focus much better on the things that mean more to me! I'm not setting any sewing goals - I merely want to continue to enjoy my sewing projects. Eventually, I'd like to make all my clothes but I'm not that close right now.

Thanks to all for their blogging - I love to read them and become a part of your life.

(Ventura Pier)

(Little P)