Monday, September 5, 2011

Completed: First Pair of Jeans, JStern 0037 (or Self-Stitched Jeans, the LA Way)

Dear readers!

Completed.  My first pair of jeans, Jennifer Stern Designs No. 0037.

Well, almost - I didn't put the jeans button fly, pocket buttons or the rivets  on (yet). 

MNBarb from Pattern Review (message board discussion here) probably provided one of the best link for jeans buttons - I'm going to order them from this ebay seller - Dimebuttons - link is Here.  Apparently, since LA is the hub (reputedly 80% of the high end jeans are designed here) - I should be able to buy some fantastic supplies; I need to hunt some down stat!

For more information on the high ends jeans manufacturing in Los Angeles - check out this LA Times Article, "Premium Jeans the Los Angeles Way."   One of the key aspects of this business is that LA manufacturers can take orders as late as 2:00 pm and have them out by 5:00 pm.  Wow!  According to research, wholesale denim (high end) can cost anywhere from 12.00 a yard to 25.00 a yard.  My denim was 6.00 a yard:)  I am going to check out sources for us readers, my recollection is that Mood has some good denim.  

Above is a close up - I do need to work on my execution skills.  I made these in 6.00 dark denim for a boot cut.  I lost 10 pounds since my muslin fittting so instead of 1/2" inseams, outseams and crotch curve - I cut 3/4".  Which worked out well and is still a bit loose (although you cannot tell from the pictures).  I only felled the back crotch curve and the yoke (and do need to work on those skills).  Also I pulled out the wonder tape at the crotch and   redid that topstitching so until I wash them they appear a little gunky.  By the way the fly is absolutely flat - but without a button it's pulling a little with belt.

On the others I used a denim double needle to simulate the felling.  However, I don't recommend the use of the denim double needle.  I made a mistake and in pulling up the stitches cut a hole in the inseam - I took up the right leg 1/4" and am experience some pulling (not evident in the pictures) on that side but I can live with that.  These jeans need a good wash - so I can get off all the tiny threads!

I am particularly pleased with the back - I place the decoratively stitched pockets once the jeans were assembled (the directions called for them to be done before the inseams and outseams are complete) - and placed the pockets 1 down near the middle of the back and sloped it down to 1 1/4".  On the I also slated the pockets starting from 1" from the back middle crotch curve to 1 1/2" as to go down.

Another essential tool is an awl which sewing.  Really critical.  I am working and made some great progress on my topstitching!  I am definitely making these again and will use a contrast thread most probably next time - and higher end denim (and maybe corduroy).  I'd also like to make a wide leg version ala Hudson Gwen jeans pictured here.

I have written a Pattern Review here for more detailed information.

The end.

P.S.  After reviewing the pictures - I am definitely going to switch from a YKK Jeans Zipper 3.5" to a 5".

14 comments:

KID, MD said...

Those look amazing!!! I love the detailing, especially the red topstitching on the pocket. These are so fabulous. I need to make more jeans...

Pam said...

Thanks! I love them and can't wait to get the rivets and buttons in!

HeathersSphere said...

Fab looking jeans on you! Very flattering fit and style!

Rebecca said...

Great job! If you find out sources for premium denim and notions in the L.A. area, please share!

Pam said...

Thanks!!!

R. - I will - A-1 Pleating has gone out of business so I am going to investigate!!

Heather said...

You are braver than me, since I'm terrified of making jeans and trousers. These turned out great though, and I love the back pocket details!

Pam said...

Thanks H! I said I've never make my own since I have no problem with RTW - but I did and love it - they fit even better (from a comfort perspective) than RTW!

Dr. Fun (AKA Sister) said...

Holy moly, I missed a lot in just a few days! You've been so productive! They look great and I LOVE the pockets! Congrats on getting them done - isn't it a great feeling?

Pam said...

Thanks! I finally got my SewJO - If your remember, I was dug under in work for the past nine months! Yes, I was so happy that I finished them this morning - my SEWJO is back and I'm ready to make another pair!!

Suzanne said...

they look fabu! I think making them out of cheap fabric to start with is a smart idea!

Eugenia said...

Wow - your jeans look amazing on you. I know from my own experience how difficult jeans are to make - you have done an amazing job - you must be feeling incredibly pleased with these! I am in awe of your jeans knowledge - I think you should be setting up your own designer jeans label - Pammie Jeans!

Pam said...

Thanks Sue and Eugenia! I love them - I can't wait to make them again! Yes, I'm so happy - getting the fit right first gave me confidence to jump in - although I do need to work on my execution skills!

Mary Beth said...

Cute! I love the back pockets :)

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