Jstern Greys (the new khakis)

Dear readers,

I finally finished the Jennifer Stern Khakis pattern (in charcoal) that I cut out over 90 days ago.

 In the above picture I paired the pants with a charcoal jacket (that is similar but not exact match).

If you're a follower of the blog - you may know I'm a big fan of Jennifer Stern patterns.  In fact, my TNT Jeans pattern is Jennifer Stern - so I used that pattern to ensure that the sizing was correct and used the same crotch seam for this pair - so I knew I would have a good fit without a toile.   I made a mistake in the waistband (easing it in) but found excess material (unusual for me) to remake it without the ease.

 Pictures were difficult due to the Pixie and Paddy being a little too excited, Pixie above.

The fabric is a grey stretch charcoal denim-like material bought in the denim/duck/khaki section of Mood LA  -  I never wear khakis myself due to the similarity in features to the Croc Hunter, Steve Irwin.  I had some execution problems with the zipper so you see it's not a perfect sewing production.  I didn't check it after really taking my time putting it in - I also seem to remember Jennifer has a tutorial on her website that I could have use.

I also used a button and put on belt loops (as I always need a belt by the end of the day seemingly no matter what pants I am wearing).  I apologize for the over-exposure but wanted to show details on the dark charcoal fabric.

 The obligatory shot, above - I'm quite happy with the fit.  They are ridiculously comfortable.

 And, from the side!

Paddy this time,  really??   Making this pair made me fall back in love with my Jennifer Stern red jeans below.  I'm wearing them again and loving the comfort.

 Wonderful fit.  If you haven't taken her jeans class, I highly recommend it - I took mine at the ASG (American Sewing Guild) National Conference.

It was hot last weekend so I got to wear sandals one day - now it's back to freezing.

I'm been sew productive - two more pillowcases, kitchen towels, and working on finishing two scarfs.

I'm not sure what is next  -  I think I want to do Colette's Jacket Sew-Along.  . . .

BTW, I am planning on attending the ASG conference in DC in August.

P.

Gertie's Portrait Blouse (in Jersey Knit!) Review

Dear readers,

I've loved wonderful bloggers' Katie's version of the Portrait Blouse, and Rachel's version from My Messings reviews of the Portrait Blouse of Gretchen's book:   Gertie's New Book for Better Sewing.

I've constructed my own rendition, a jersey knit, above, after my silk(ish) woven toile failed.

Gertie's book is intriguing!  This pattern is only two pieces with facings for the collar.  The armholes are very small seams.  I should be able to draft a nice silk - but alas, I cannot.

Why?  I tried to rotate the darts on my princess-seamed sloper to then alter Gertie's pattern from the book - which I sketched out.  But for some reason, my rotation is not correct.  Gertie's pattern calls for side darts - and this is where my trouble lies.  Rather than construct another toile - I decided to go with two jersey knit fabrics from Mood, bought recently, with alterations based on the first toile.

The second blouse is under construction, while I speak (a wonderful Betsey Johnson jersey knit!).   This blouse took me less than two hours to construct once cut.  I WILL DEFINITELY make this again - it looks great under suits!

Another quick portrait blouse to follow!

Oh Canada! Pendrell Fall Blouse finished!

Dear readers,

I've finally adjusted the Pendrell blouse for my sloper corrections (which was fairly easy because both were princess seams).  The blouse was pictured below, with my version of Jennifer Stern's jeans (Jean Posts Here).

No, I'm not celebrating Canada (perhaps I should).  This maple leaf is my ode to Fall (we are having a heatwave here, however).  Although here in Ventura the summer is just now starting with the Santa Anas, and warm temps.    I bought the fabric from Mood recently on a trip.

I used Tasia's Blog on Sew-Alongs (scroll down for the Pendrell links);  the pattern directions were easy and I love princess seam blouses. But, the ideas for putting the blouse together with the sleeves were easier using the author's directions online.  It was a unique way of puttting together the blouse.  I will definitely make it again and have noted some hints for a better fit (I cut this a bit large).

Here is the pattern view (I sewed View A).  Although this pattern was drafted allegedly for pear-shaped girls - I made it anyway (I am a reverse triangle, or an apple, depending), and it worked brilliantly.  It's a bit blousy - but that was my fault - next time I'll cut down on the SA.

I am working on the pattern review.

So, dear readers, I am just starting my sew-cation - but have finished the above, not to mention two more knit blouses and a tank top!

Onto the pants now!!

Red Jeans Everywhere! JStern 0037 Jeans review.

Dear readers,

As promised, JStern jeans, my second version, in red stretch denim from the much-loved TNT pattern.   Red jeans are in (as far as trends) right now - I'm seeing them everywhere.  ( I also chopped 16" off my hair - this is the wavy version).

 I bought the fabric from mood.  I'm wearing Danski clogs, bought in Seattle during a rainstorm two years ago, and a rain jacket from Anthropologie I'm not sure I'm keeping (it really never rains here but may be very good for travel for a less sporty option).

 Again, they are a perfect fit.  I took Jennifer's class at ASG in Los Angeles where she led us through a  fitting session (and in which I blogged about in detail).  I used stretch denim.  Her instructions state to use denim with no more than 2-3% stretch and these jeans probably have 30%!  I bought the fabric from Mood back in September.  So, I sewed the crotch and inseams the same as directed and used a 3/4 hem on the sides and I have plenty of room to move.

I also deepened and extended the back crotch curve and deepened and extended the front crotch curve.  Result: comfy!

 Here they are again, a bit closer up - really a wonderful fit and I'm thrilled.

 Here is the flat version - as you can see my waist is almost the same as my hips (darn it!).

 My fancy button ordered from ebay!

Another big decision were the pockets.  I left a simple pattern with no hoods on the pockets.  I thought that red was enough.  However, I did make a mistake.  The pockets are stretchy and when I attached them the tops were stretched - so these are mock pockets without a pocket opening, so they lay flat!

I recommend if using stretch denim to use a material such as silk organza as an interfacing, and to add ribbon or other materials inside where the pocket opening exists to reinforce the opening (high end jeans do this I see in my RTW jeans).  Therefore, you get reinforced pockets with little to no stretch.

One more recommendation - Jennifer recommends sewing on the pockets before the pants are put together (outseams and inseams); however, I wait until right before I put on the belt loops - it seams I am very picky about the placement.  I recommend this method, although it does make it more difficult to sew the pockets on.  But I'm okay with the difficulty I'm much more concerned with pocket placement.

This pattern is a dream to sew up and I highly recommend it.

Now, what to do with myself - I have no more UFOs.  I bought some quilting material and have plenty of patterns and stash material to sew.  I'm pretty excited to catch up on my projects!

Jeanstar!

Dear readers,

Jennifer Stern graciously featured the fit of my jeans on her blog  - JStern's Blog Here.  I love the fit - very comfortable - now I wish my first pair had better execution in the stitching - at the time I was fiddling with flat felled stitching (lap seams) - somewhat unsuccessfully!

Almost done with my second pair of jeans:

One of the parts of the jeans making process I find so intoxicating is the multitude of decisions that must be made before the final result. 

Below, my project is cut and waiting to be sewn:

One of my first decisions was where to sew the coin pocket (if any) on the jeans.  So I pulled a few pairs of jeans out below, to examine the differences on current designer jeans.

A few different styles from Hudson and True Religion Jeans.  It turns out, almost anything goes with the placement and design of the coin pocket.
I could have left out the pocket, but almost every "classic five-pocket design" jeans has one of these pockets.  


I looked into the history of the coin pocket.  Apparently, the small denim pocket above the front pocket first made its appearance in 1890 on Levi's intended to be used for coins and pocket watches.  

After some consideration, I chose a slightly off center style to add some pizzazz.  They are red, after all.

I am almost finished with the jeans.  All I have to complete are the belt loops, buttons and rivets, back pockets, and hem.

Completed: First Pair of Jeans, JStern 0037 (or Self-Stitched Jeans, the LA Way)

Dear readers!

Completed.  My first pair of jeans, Jennifer Stern Designs No. 0037.

Well, almost - I didn't put the jeans button fly, pocket buttons or the rivets  on (yet). 

MNBarb from Pattern Review (message board discussion here) probably provided one of the best link for jeans buttons - I'm going to order them from this ebay seller - Dimebuttons - link is Here.  Apparently, since LA is the hub (reputedly 80% of the high end jeans are designed here) - I should be able to buy some fantastic supplies; I need to hunt some down stat!

For more information on the high ends jeans manufacturing in Los Angeles - check out this LA Times Article, "Premium Jeans the Los Angeles Way."   One of the key aspects of this business is that LA manufacturers can take orders as late as 2:00 pm and have them out by 5:00 pm.  Wow!  According to research, wholesale denim (high end) can cost anywhere from 12.00 a yard to 25.00 a yard.  My denim was 6.00 a yard:)  I am going to check out sources for us readers, my recollection is that Mood has some good denim.  

Above is a close up - I do need to work on my execution skills.  I made these in 6.00 dark denim for a boot cut.  I lost 10 pounds since my muslin fittting so instead of 1/2" inseams, outseams and crotch curve - I cut 3/4".  Which worked out well and is still a bit loose (although you cannot tell from the pictures).  I only felled the back crotch curve and the yoke (and do need to work on those skills).  Also I pulled out the wonder tape at the crotch and   redid that topstitching so until I wash them they appear a little gunky.  By the way the fly is absolutely flat - but without a button it's pulling a little with belt.

On the others I used a denim double needle to simulate the felling.  However, I don't recommend the use of the denim double needle.  I made a mistake and in pulling up the stitches cut a hole in the inseam - I took up the right leg 1/4" and am experience some pulling (not evident in the pictures) on that side but I can live with that.  These jeans need a good wash - so I can get off all the tiny threads!

I am particularly pleased with the back - I place the decoratively stitched pockets once the jeans were assembled (the directions called for them to be done before the inseams and outseams are complete) - and placed the pockets 1 down near the middle of the back and sloped it down to 1 1/4".  On the I also slated the pockets starting from 1" from the back middle crotch curve to 1 1/2" as to go down.

Another essential tool is an awl which sewing.  Really critical.  I am working and made some great progress on my topstitching!  I am definitely making these again and will use a contrast thread most probably next time - and higher end denim (and maybe corduroy).  I'd also like to make a wide leg version ala Hudson Gwen jeans pictured here.

I have written a Pattern Review here for more detailed information.

The end.

P.S.  After reviewing the pictures - I am definitely going to switch from a YKK Jeans Zipper 3.5" to a 5".

Considering Jeans.

Dear readers,

I'm in the middle of making a great pair of jeans; and in doing so, I am taking my time (gasp!).  Yes, it's true - I'm not rushing to get through!

I said I've never make jeans because I love high end RTW jeans and have quite a few pairs.  But, as they say, never say never!  I'm doing it after taking J. Stern's Jeans Fit class at the ASG and loving it.   What a fun project.  Since I'm taking my time I'm going to do a series of posts about my trials and tribulations - and about making choices.  Once you have your muslin fitting (the stage I'm at) it's all about making choices.



Now, that said, I've lost 8 pounds since the muslin fitting (I'm not traveling for work and have cut out beans (lectins), wheat and sugar for the most part.  So, I am proposing a few new techniques in the form of construction choices:



First, deciding whether to flat fell the outseams and inseams (the yoke is called for to be felled in J. Stern's jeans pattern and is a classic technique used in jeans).

My favorite jeans are boot cut Hudson jeans.  As you can see here the outseams are topstitched rather than flat-felled, and the entire inseams are flat-felled.

 Here is a pair of skinny jeans -  rock and republic - although their crotch line is flat-felled - their inseams are not flat-felled.  Also, notice that the outseams are flat-felled at what looks to be 1/2 inch rather than the standard 3/4 inch.

 Sorry about the open crotch construction shots - this isn't normally a "dirty" blog:)

My thought is to flat-fell the inseam and crotch area and consider (based on fit) whether to do the outseams in a full 3/4 inch flat-fell seamed.  I am concerned that I've lost weight and that my jeans denim (dark and pictured below) has more than the 1-2% stretch recommended for this pattern.  The roll was unmarked as to lycra percentage when I bought it.

Another choice which must be made is what color thread to top-stitch and whether to use a pattern or embroidery on the pockets:

Hudson Jeans:  no pattern

Rock and republic:  Embroidery and use of matching thread to topstitch:

Two sewing bloggers have done amazing pockets - check them out:

1)  Katy did an unique "medical inspired" pocket  HERE at the most Awesome Pocket ever!

2)  Dawn did an wonderful embroidered pocket  - I couldn't find the pictures on her blog, Two One Two Off, but have put the link to the pattern review (she and Katy did the Jalie Jeans pattern 2708) HERE.

Since the jeans are dark I'm thinking of topstitching with a medium jeans blue thread.  (J. thinks this is a good idea as my prior attempts at topstitching have been iffy).  I have bought a dual jeans needle.

 I may put a pattern on the pockets, below these are my tests on the jeans fabric I bought:

 I really like the geometric design:

And, the wave:

By the way, if you'd like some pictures of other jeans, please comment - I do have a wide variety to photograph in my arsenal (levi's, true religion, J-brand, etc.).

Today - I'm doing pockets and the zipper.  Tomorrow's post will be about the history of jeans (and the rise of high-end jeans manufactured in Los Angeles).

Jeans Fit Class at ASG Los Angeles

Dear Readers,

I unexpectedly had the best experience.  I was lucky enough to get into Jennifer Stern Hazeman's Jeans Fit class at the American Sewing Guild (ASG) conference here in Los Angeles and even ate breakfast with her (unexpectedly, she's taller than I imagined)!  Fun with celebrity sewists - what a day!

 Here is the link to her BLOG!  We received, among a professional workbook the following jeans pattern (left).  She has a khaki pattern that I already have (right).

Jennifer is delightful!  I did get a perfectly fit pair of jeans seriously thick muslin  - see below:

 The class was large - and we were provided Bernina Aurora 440s and 430s to sew our muslins with (what a luxury!).   I am going to tweak them a bit more once I use actual jeans material (I need to ease in the knee notches so they match and work on some of the back wrinkles - this material has no stretch).

Seriously, Jennifer is probably the best sewing instructor I've run across. I must say she has excellent training skills she employs that are professional and exceed the standards for adult learning.  Great job JS!

And she can really draft and fit patterns.  The class had about 18-20 people (probably the max you can fit in a hands-on class) , and everyone had excellent results - and everyone had distinctly different figures.  She was very fair and spent time with those learners that had difficulty understanding the pattern-making/fitting techniques.

All that said, I didn't need much personalized instruction as I was the only person in the class that had an almost perfect fit out of the box.  I merely made changes for boot cut and a deeper slope in the back crotch line (a mere preference for me!) - I had quite the opposite experience in making my bodice sloper.

I would encourage all to attend the conference - I am thrilled at the variety of the workshops at the conference (bra-making!), and of the sewing level of the sewists attending.  It gives me something to aspire to!

I'm working on alterations, my bodice sloper blouse and now, jeans!  Fun!