Another (fun) Self-Drafted A-Line Skirt

Dear readers,

I've made another skirt from my skirt sloper - this time I made an A-line skirt using the adjustments I've learned from two sources. . .

 The fabric is from G-Street Fabrics - $6.00 on their "skirt ends" table.

 A back view above, showing the A-line shape.

 I keep getting photo-bombed by my Kerry, Pixie.

 I inserted a quick lining from the stash - albeit a bit uneven.  It peeks out when I sit - but at this point - I'm ok to live with that:)

 This methodology is what I merely used.  Adding a bit of flare at the side of the skirt.  This reference is from a used book:  "How to Design your own clothes and make your own Patterns" by Claudia Ein.  I do like some of the ideas.

 And, adding to the flare is an option, slash and spread method by Helen Joseph Armstrong, "Patternmaking for Fashion Design."  I didn't use the slash and spread method as the skirt materials didn't drape as well, and it is suiting material.  Although I do plan to use this method sometime in the future.

 Photobombed again!

Finally!  Still photo-bombed but you can see the shoes.  Fidji - my heels broke consecutively in DC, and then in Bremerton/Poulsbo - so I WAS FORCED to run out and buy some new shoes in both locations.   At first, I thought these might be a bit "elfish" but they have turned out to be super comfy 1.5 - 2 inch red heel, and really, my "go to" heel for jeans and even while teaching.   They are the result of a great recommendation from a travel (and sewing) buddy.

More sew-cation work to follow!

Two Pencils for the Fall!

Dear readers,

Back from dog-cation, we are now on the regularly scheduled sew-cation.  Two more pencil skirts are completed, drafted from my skirt slopers.  The first, made out of wool (feels like soft felt) from Mood, below:

Perfect scholarly-lawyer attire with a vintage feel.  I realize from these fair pictures I might consider improving my pressing skills!

 I love the dark wool skirt - and it's absolutely a perfect fit.  I have to thank Sew LA for the sloper classes - these are really good (and I'm about 10 pounds heavier than when these were drafted but they still fit well).

 A back shot, above - ugg - needs better pressing.

 I drafted a flat waistband using the pattern-making book from Ms. Armstrong.  It's wonderful.

I lined the skirt above in red bemberg ambiance.  

Below, please see a close-up of the fabric.

The second skirt is another wool, but tweed, $6.00 from G-street fabrics:

No waistband, and the fit is better on the first, I believe. 

 You can see the tweed a bit better.

I lined the skirt again, with a heavier weight Bemberg.

I am still having execution problems - my hem is much better (I'm doing blind stitch machine hem).  And, I am doing machine centered zippers (which look not so good!) - but luckily I NEVER tuck in blouses.  My kick pleats could use some work as well.  These are easily (and proudly) wearable but are not, sadly, perfect. . . 

I have not been doing Pattern Review posts since these are all self-drafted.  I've considered it but I believe the intent of the website is for review of existing patterns.    Am I wrong?

This concludes my skirts for Fall - all work-type skirts - again, a necessity but not a ball of excitement.  I drafted three and I will draft one more different skirt - an A-line casual skirt in Japanese gauze with an elastic waist. 

Thanks for your comments - I am having fun with my sloper and I am working on Jennifer Stern's Jeans pattern next!

My first design (based on my bodice block)!

Yes, finally  finished my bodice block!  Hurray!! Finally, I drafted a pattern of my own designing -  based on Ms. Helen Joseph Armstrong's Pattern Making book.  I modified my basic sloper (or block) I made at Sew-LA.

The material is Japanese linen-gauze - very comfy.  I chose to put on regular buttons - and added a peter pan collar - which I used the construction methodology in The Reader's Digest Guide to Sewing. 

What I like about it is that is has my style aesthetic - and is super comfy especially in the bust area.   It has princess seams.    I haven't been able to wear a button shirt in years.  I did make some mistakes - I sewed the button holes horizontal - hey, I know - but I haven't been wearing button front shirts for years.  Thanks J.   

Also, I need to refit my shoulders - they are not quite right in the front.  They don't pull because of the ease in the bodice but they are constricting.

Other than that - I love it!  Really comfy - I can't wait to wear it.  Well, onto more sewcation items.  Skirts, Skirts, Shorts and Jeans.   Did I mention I finished all my alterations -  I feel like I am smoking along!

First basic block piece (skirt) turns into something wearable!

Whew!  I've been busy at work.  I took this class in November and am just NOW getting around to making something (after gaining 20 pounds too!).
I finished it on Sunday . . but haven't posted because I've been taking adult swim lessons (to improve my stroke) and it's exhausted me!  It's every day this week - I thought I only signed up for one class!

Now  . . .  what I made - a well-fitting pencil (or straight) skirt:

That said - Wow! Super easy - with my basic block (sloper).  This took nothing at all to sewing up:) I measured a 1" inch allowance but ended up sewing 5/8" (of all things - I tried 1" but it was a bit large).   I do believe I could probably sew an 1/2 inch SA rather than 5/8.   I did not make a waistband.

I also designed a pleated vent (or kick pleat) in back of the skirt.  I did this with the help of my trusty patternmaking book by Ms. Armstrong. I am considering doing a tutorial but I'm not 100% certain I sewed it correctly in the execution and need to conduct more research.   The picture is not so great - I should have used my macro lens and put the skirt on the dressform - not hanging off the ironing board.  Ah, next time.

 And a machine-sewn centered zipper (rather than my normal hand picked zipper).  I also used wonder tape - which does have its advantages (no pins) but it did get my needle and zipper a bit sticky.

Finally, a really well fitting pencil-type brown skirt for work wear. The fabric is wool, so I pretreated it using the steam as this fabric is dry clean only - I hope it works!

Also, note I'm a big chicken - I refuse to change the thread in my serger - so I'm going with the dark blue.  Seriously, I'm not changing the thread - I had it serviced and it sews perfectly.  Don't mess with success.


I fully lined the skirt to the waist (and used copious amounts of facing) with a mid weight bemberg lining.  I then put in a blind hem by machine - and once in, I attached the lace to the lining with a fell stitch.  I do believe I am getting some pulling in the hem due to the machine stitching (user error).  I may take out the hem and hand stitch it in.  In addition, the skirt was a bit short - I wanted a full 1 to 2 inch hem and was able to hem it only 1/2 inch.  Good to know.

By the way, I bought the wool skirt material from G-Street Fabrics near DC for 6.00 - they have a table for fabric ends perfect for skirts!  A great deal!

Yes, I will do this again  -  the entire process probably took less than 4 hours.  I am finding I am enjoying having a sloper skirt pattern.  Next up, the basic bodice block.

P.S.  Well, it is a bit boring!  But I do need some basics and enjoying this "fallish" sewing. . .

Patternmaking class - Finished!

Dear Readers,

I've been off in Newport, RI for a week teaching and returned to finish my bodice block in the advanced patternmaking class I've been taking. . .

Here are the results of my efforts:

And, here are the skirt blocks I made last November - hope they still fit  -  I've gained a few pounds:)  Oh, the piano is my pattern "staging area."

I also use J's piano to stage my patterns that are cut out (heehee!).

For the bodice, I have a different right side and left side because my left shoulder is taller than my right (I attribute this to an old skateboarding rotator cuff injury).

So, double the fun.  One of the most interesting portions of this class was learning my measurements - and quite frankly, they were quite different than I thought.  No wonder RTW never fits perfectly in the bodice area.

I am thrilled to have a bodice block that fits well!  If you are interested Shearie from Sew La masterfully teaches these classes.   They are very complex and now I realize that I didn't know what I didn't know.  In this regard, I mean that  pattern-making is a complex art that takes (I think) years to master.  So, I didn't realize all the measurements that go into a commercial pattern.  I didn't realize (and am still learning) all the ways to manipulate the blocks to achieve a certain look or style.

I also bought the recommended patternmaking book and as an aside, random new and vintage sewing books (I'll review these in an upcoming blog post). . . Off to sew. . .

Happy Fourth of July!!!

Little P relaxing. . .

Introduction to Pattern Making (Skirt)

Hello Readers!!  Happy Hallow's Eve:)

On Saturday, I finally took the first class in a series of 3 classes of Introduction to Pattern-Making.  I'm taking the class at Sew LA from owner, Shaerie.

The first three weeks are really, making a sloper for a skirt.  This sloper will function as a flat pattern that will "free me from the confines of commercial patterns."  And, will assist with fitting all future garments - Sounds Great!!

I haven't signed up for the bodice part, and now I  believe it's sold out! Oh Boo!  I may have to wait until next offering or procure private lessons.

Here's what I have learned from the class - I have measured myself completely incorrectly.  I measure myself as Waist 33", Hips 38" - when in reality my waist is 30" and hips 40" (I have been eating a bunch of chocolate:)).  Also, I've learned my hips are 9" from my waist - the standard measurement in commercial patterns - yeah!

We are using a Butterick 5746 (as shown below) basic skirt and working on our muslins now.  As soon as we are done I'll go on a skirt making binge - right now I'm on a dress-making binge (still).

Here's what I have learned about my sewing:

(1)  I am rushing literally everything - I need to slow down and take my time.

(2)  I really need to pay much more detailed attention to grainlines.

(3)  Ok, I do need to make muslins for the majority of my projects.  (As a result of my sewing mojo being jump-started by this class, I made a muslin for Vogue 8667, which I will explain in detail on tomorrow's blog!)

(4)  I really need to trace sewing lines instead of eyeballing them by hand (especially for high value projects).  Yes!  It does make a difference (and modifying these lines requires, dare I say it?, MATH!).

(5)  Ah, the wonders of the two inch clear ruler.  I really need to use my clear flexible ruler in everyday measurements - wow!  I've really been missing out.

(6)  I'm so glad I took that couture hand sewing class in preparation for this class - it's made hand-basting a breeze!

Summary - Great class so far and this is the first in person class I've taken where it was more than a beginning level garment sewing class.  This is an advanced class and everyone has experience garment making - I'm holding my own though - all my self-study, the couture hand-sewing class, and practice has definitely helped.  I have quite a bit to learn!