Classicly Tailored Shirt -- Butterick 5678

Dear readers,

I'm taking a craftsy class "The Perfect Tailored shirt."  However, I am only around half way through the class.  So, I am starting my shirt project anyway -- although I am modifying to use a princess seam pattern, for the first one.

Here is the fabric I'm using -- a cotton print, a little bit vintage inspired, from Mood.

 This is the pattern I selected and I modified it using my sloper (or basic bodice blocks)

Although the class calls for a pattern without princess, such as this one below: Vogue 8689.  Maybe next time. I'm tempted to get a Connie Crawford pattern now that I've seen how good they are drafted.

Here is where I stand below.   I'm missing about a half yard of fabric (I'm going to Mood Monday afternoon -- fingers crossed).  Last time I was there about three months ago -- a few hundred yards remained on the roll.

As a result of the process, I've been researching tailored shirts.  Here is a women's Navy Officer shirt - from Brooks.  Very fine materials and well-tailored.

 Here is the perfect collar; you can see some of the inside:

 Perfect sleeves and plackets.

 Wonderful job on the collar stand

 Overall, the execution is excellent -- but the fit is not good.  I loved the hidden placket (below) and I learned to do this easily at Connie Crawford's class at the ASG.

So, have you sewn any tailored shirts?  Tip and tricks??

XOXO, Pam

Vogue 8667 Finally Finished:)

Dear Readers,

Ok, I'm only two weeks late on the publishing of this finished dress.  My second, and it's a much better fit.  I worked hard on the bodice with the princess seams.

Here's the back view - which is a better fit than what this picture suggests.

''

Whew!  Boy I need a haircut.  

I've reviewed this pattern before so, here we go:

What I liked:  Fun, easy, princess-seam pattern with retro good looks in a variety of styles.  I love the two-tone - which Eugenia ingeniously concocted in one of her dresses.  Great fit.  I added the selvage flowers and pockets which match the bodice. . . 

Peek-a-boo

 Flowers - my big design element.

My challenges:  The bodice fit - which I blogged about last post.  I wish I could add the collar to this version - I ran out of tropical material.  I lined it - which was challenging considering the double knit material I used on the skirt and somewhat skewed the absolutely perfect fit I had going on previously.  

I also handpicked the zipper and used a variety of couture techniques. . . fell stitching on the armholes and to finish the lining.  

Hand-picked Zipper.  My favorite.

Next up:  I'm in the middle of the pants sew-a-long by Sunni, The Cupcake Goddess, working on my muslin fit.  I am taking a cloning class by Kenneth King, and I've been shout out by Sue of Sew-Misunderstood!  Thanks - the posts are forthcoming.

This dress should work wonderfully  -  I'm headed to Hawaii in a week for two weeks for a work trip - although I planned to make a new bathing suit - that project has now been delayed. .  . Pattern review on this dress to follow. 

Vogue 8667 Version 2 Almost!

Dear readers,

I've almost finished Vogue 8667 version 2.  The dress is pictured below - it needs some finishing - which I will do upon my return from a trip east later this week:


First, I must thank (profusely) Eugenia from Eugenia's (Fabulous) World of Fashion, who gave me the idea of the two tone ensemble when my fabric selection for the bodice was insufficient in terms of amount of material.

She constructed the same dress in this method and its a knock out.

I have also constructed two deconstructed flowers to attach to the dress - in the shoulder/bodice area, I think. . 

I will model the dress next weekend  - however, I did two processes I may not choose to do again on this dress.  First, I lined the dress with cotton voile - I think that affected the fit a bit - although it's a great fit so far - it actually felt better without the lining (I'll explain that in the next post).

Second, I added pockets and looking at the silhouette I believe this changed the lines of the skirt.

By the way, if you don't know - Auburn is playing in the BCS National Championship in Arizona (I'm on a last minute trip and missing the game).  However, as sewing inspriration - I'd like to give a shout out to Sister at
Living La VIda Loca! - who has sewn, and perfected, the perfect Kwik Sew polar fleece jacket.  War Eagle!!

Thank you Vogue Patterns!

Wow!  I need to buy a lotto ticket - stat!  First, I pass the bar (luckily) - then my father send me the new kindle (lucky, again!), and then wonderful Kathy Marrone comments to tell me that my last post is featured on the Vogue Patterns facebook page and that they like it very much. (Very shocking!)

I still feel pretty lucky - I consider myself to still be an advanced beginner.  Out of the blue!  If you are on facebook here is the LINK.  I wasn't aware of the FB page - and they post frequently - on a variety of sewing-related issues.  Their latest post indicates that they are giving away fabric (from their stash) on Mondays. 

Now, I feel dedicated to doing a better job on my Hawaiian dress - all part of my guilt at being mentioned and featured on their link.  Well, dare to dream, I say!

BTW, I think this counts for a few minutes of my fame quotient. 

Vogue 8667 (Finally!) and Celebratory Libations

Hello dear readers!

Finally, I've finished Vogue 8667, pictured below.  It's been quite the journey!

Finally, I might add.  I started this project at the same time as I was taking "Intro to Pattern-Making."  Which was brilliant.  I started out making the dress pattern initially with the bodice pictured here, in a Hawaiian Cotton Print.  

Several problems emerged, when I sewed two muslins to check the fit. 

First, the cotton has no drape for the collar piece.   And I actually didn't have enough fabric for the full skirt (of course!!).  So, based on Gertie's wonderful blogging, she gave me idea to use a double knit - a wonderfully soft fabric that I bought for 8.00 a yard from Michael Levine - I had more than enough fabric (the bolts were huge).   So, I put off the Hawaiian fabric (I am finishing this weekend). 

However, do you think I should face the Hawaiian bodice?  I am tempted to use bias binding (same color) but J. thinks that has a tendency to look homemade.   Your opinions are helpful. 

I also decided to initially not make the sleeves since the sleeve fitting was complex.   I have rather large biceps.  However, the double knit gave me some confidence so I made the sleeve alteration - based on the advice from the book, Fit for Real People.  

I have a 9" bust to bust point - which I increased by 1" from the pattern.  In addition, my bust points were 1" below overall the curve indicated by the pattern.  I will details these alterations later this weekend with pictures.  It was actually very hard for me to get a good fit with the princess seams, since my shape differed quite a bit from the pattern cut.   The double knit was quite forgiving, although since it was not exactly the same as the cotton muslins - I had several differences in the final result.  The bust should not have been altered horizontally, but the overall curve move worked out well.  

Even though I didn't need to - I handpicked the zipper, above,  (thanks Sewaholic (great tutorial)).  I also admired Gertie's and Susan Khalje's tutorials and lessons, respectively, which gave me the ideas to do this type of couture technique.  I finished the seams with my serger, even though with double knit one is not required to do - I think it looked more professional.  

I also added the bow at the waist to hide some wonky seams (I almost ordered a custom belt). If anyone has any ideas on how to sew very straight seams across the waist on a princess cut garment - please let me know your tips - I had big problems.  I am going to go back and reset the bow, to tell the truth - I hurried to finish this dress and have worn it three times since finishing it Wednesday evening.  

End result, I love it.  I have to finish the cotton Hawaiian version, but I am probably not going to use the full skirt.  I now have a skirt "block" from my Intro to Pattern-Making - and I'm going to use that to attach a straight skirt like the alternate view suggested in the pattern. 

Pattern review Here!.  This pattern took a ton of alterations, and initially, I thought the skirt would look wonky, but I rather like it.

On a personal note, I've been on pins and needles since Nov. 1 - but found out last night I passed the Cal. Bar on my first try! Hurray!   Now, I am going to nurse my headache from the celebratory libations!

Vogue 8667 - Vintage-Inspired Modern Dress

Hello Dear Readers,

I hope this first of November finds you all well.  As for me - as yesterday's post discussed - my sewing mojo is back - and NO travel for me this month:)

I have just completed a muslin for Vogue 8667 - a modern dress with a vintage twist.  I am making the sleeveless dress in beige on the model shown.

Pictured are the bodice and full muslins for this dress - and whew!  I have quite a few alterations to complete!  I also wanted to make the blue version shown above, but the sleeves would have taken two + alterations to fit my  rather full upper arm - so out they go!  Plus, I plan to wear this dress in Hawaii with some fabric I picked up my last work trip there - so sleeveless does make more sense.

I have completed the bodice muslin shown above.  My alterations (upon trying it on) are the bustpoints must be moved down 1" each.  This bodice has princess sleeves mind you.  In addition, I must widen the bust points one inch to the side for each.  I am also adding 1 inch to the bodice - to move my waist seam downward.  Finally, I am adding 1/4" on the seam allowance for the sides.

I haven't yet sewn princess seams, so I looked up and cross-referenced how to do so in Fit for Real People, by Pati Palmer and Marta Alto.  The authors give a detailed description on how to move the bust points for princess seams (the technique in short involved cutting and moving the pattern downward at the bust-point on the front pattern piece and side pattern pieces).  Although after thinking about this (and dreaming about it!)  -  I may try adding 1" to the shoulder seam if it doesn't throw out the proportion for the armholes.

I also reviewed the description on how to widen the sleeve for the upper arm, and although the technique is excellent - I think I prefer the description and additional technique for a small adjustment detailed in Fast Fit, Sandra Betzina.  Both technique call for cutting and widening the arm pattern pieces.

Finally, the skirt is done and I need to do a better job on the pleating.

After thinking about this - I plan to cut another bodice muslin and check the fit once more before cutting my fashion fabric.

Any tips on fitting (or sewing) princess seams are appreciated!

Introduction to Pattern Making (Skirt)

Hello Readers!!  Happy Hallow's Eve:)

On Saturday, I finally took the first class in a series of 3 classes of Introduction to Pattern-Making.  I'm taking the class at Sew LA from owner, Shaerie.

The first three weeks are really, making a sloper for a skirt.  This sloper will function as a flat pattern that will "free me from the confines of commercial patterns."  And, will assist with fitting all future garments - Sounds Great!!

I haven't signed up for the bodice part, and now I  believe it's sold out! Oh Boo!  I may have to wait until next offering or procure private lessons.

Here's what I have learned from the class - I have measured myself completely incorrectly.  I measure myself as Waist 33", Hips 38" - when in reality my waist is 30" and hips 40" (I have been eating a bunch of chocolate:)).  Also, I've learned my hips are 9" from my waist - the standard measurement in commercial patterns - yeah!

We are using a Butterick 5746 (as shown below) basic skirt and working on our muslins now.  As soon as we are done I'll go on a skirt making binge - right now I'm on a dress-making binge (still).

Here's what I have learned about my sewing:

(1)  I am rushing literally everything - I need to slow down and take my time.

(2)  I really need to pay much more detailed attention to grainlines.

(3)  Ok, I do need to make muslins for the majority of my projects.  (As a result of my sewing mojo being jump-started by this class, I made a muslin for Vogue 8667, which I will explain in detail on tomorrow's blog!)

(4)  I really need to trace sewing lines instead of eyeballing them by hand (especially for high value projects).  Yes!  It does make a difference (and modifying these lines requires, dare I say it?, MATH!).

(5)  Ah, the wonders of the two inch clear ruler.  I really need to use my clear flexible ruler in everyday measurements - wow!  I've really been missing out.

(6)  I'm so glad I took that couture hand sewing class in preparation for this class - it's made hand-basting a breeze!

Summary - Great class so far and this is the first in person class I've taken where it was more than a beginning level garment sewing class.  This is an advanced class and everyone has experience garment making - I'm holding my own though - all my self-study, the couture hand-sewing class, and practice has definitely helped.  I have quite a bit to learn!

Vogue Pattern Bounty

Dear readers,

After work today, I jumped on down to Joann Fabric for their 3.99 pattern sale (Vogue patterns only) going on.   I needed 2 yards of muslin since I am taking a very promising Introduction to Pattern-Making class on Saturday morning in that hipster enclave of Los Angeles, Silver Lake (where I do buy quite a bit of Japanese fabric).

Here is my bounty:

Vogue 8146:

I didn't mean to purchase this - I ran across this while browsing for missing patterns in the drawers (as usual!) - I found this by mistake - I love sheath dresses - and loved the jacket on this one. . .

Vogue 8333:

A Claire Shaeffer pattern that I love!  Since I saw Erika B make a wonderful Claire Shaeffer jacket - I couldn't wait to pick this up - I want to eventually put my newly acquired couture skills to work!

Vogue 8667:

A very easy vogue pattern that I saw favorable reviewed on PR - can't wait to sew this up - plus it favors my aesthetic of perhaps vintage, yet modern. . 

Vogue 1206:

I loved the sleeves and neckline on this dress - it looks pretty easy and I've seen positive reviews on PR and my bloglist - Jonathan loves the fabric shown on the model but I certainly cannot see myself in this print!

Vogue 8688:

I like the version on the right, in yellow! I can make this quickly - and I already love a few RTW cashmere sweaters I own in this design!  I really wanted a couple of different knit patterns to be honest but they were out of stock!

In a related note:  Have you seen the option on McCall's webpage for "Printable Patterns."  Has anyone tried this option and if so, what was the result?

I can't wait for tomorrow's class!

Vogue 1197 Re-Do & 1st Serger Garment!

Hello Readers,
I've completed the Vogue 1197 tunic, pictured below (taking advantage of the evening light). . .

I made this garment twice (as I cut off the hem of this tunic 8" short on my first try last weekend!).   And let's not talk about the stripes lining up on the previous garment!  This was made with my vintage serger.

I wanted a garment that I could wear "jeggings" with - and this one was perfect.  I bought the fabric at Mood, a knit jersey - with much more stretch than the pattern called for.   For my second try, I made the tunic version in the smallest size - it had so much ease it was ridiculous! On the final garment I made the bust size 32, for example (and I am a RTW 38B-C).  

I love the garment - the first one was a disaster in many ways - I even got lost serging the raglan sleeves. 

 Wow - serging is EASY and FAST!  As you can see from the view below my serging is not quite right (no getting that fall bob haircut now!).  I lazily used the cowl from my first version (and because I didn't buy enough fabric at Mood for the second version - I know don't ask).  Normally I buy 2.5 yards not knowing what pattern I am going to do - but for some reason I thought I did this pattern with 2 years (60") - No, that was not enough.

I did a rolled hem on the sleeves and hem below.  I didn't use "wooley nylon" as the pattern called for it -  I don't know that I could find a wooley nylon in brown, to tell you the truth. . . 

The hem is measured around 25.5 inches from the floor - all the way around.

 I wore ballet flats for the picture, but these are my shoes of choice for this outfit.

This elastic below was my first try - some fold over lingerie elastic - it didn't work - you need an elastic with ALOT of stretch - so I ended up going with the 1/4" elastic the pattern suggested.

I'm fighting off a summer cold - but had to get the garment finished - it should have been finished last weekend!

Two other events:
(1) Took a learn to serge class - which was very helpful, and had some, let us say, interesting interactions (a later post which I have in draft); and,

(2)  I'm taking the Couture Hand Stitch class on Pattern Review!  I've bought the supplies but haven't done the assignments (yet!).

Pattern review is HERE.

Next sewing project, something "vintage-y."

New Pattern Purchases

Hello dear readers,

I've taken advantage of the 3.99 sale at Joann's for Vogue and even splurged on some Kwik Sew Patterns (and one Burda) . . . .

Onto the Vogues . .

The dress to your left, Vogue 1137 gets excellent reviews and the coat is wonderful too.  I might actually make this rather than the pattern sitting in my stash (as some Vintage patterns tend to do)!

Deconstructing and Reconstructing Vogue 8634

Well, as you know I made a big wadder earlier this week, luckily I turned the remaining fabric into Vogue 8634 - which I have done before.

A weekend of Knits

Well, I took the easy road and instead of the walk-away dress, now on hold - I completed two easy confidence building projects.  Which left me with some fun items and check, check, two projects done.  The first up, was Vogue 8634  -  made from a very golden Organic Bamboo Jersey Knit from Michael Levine in LA's fashion district.