Review of Free Craftsy Class on Mastering Zipper Techniques

Dear readers,

I'm stuck in bed (mostly) convalescing from minor foot surgery.  So, I cannot sew, or really do anything sitting yet - but what I can do:  finally watch my Craftsy classes while I put off finishing knitting projects!

First one up - a class featuring Sunni from A Fashionable Stitch -  on Mastering Zipper Techniques.  I previously bought gorgeous sewing pressing hams from her and love them still.

The class was free at Craftsy Online Classes  - I wasn't totally sure what I would learn from the class at first.  I am already signed up for the zipper class at ASG in Arlington this summer.  But I was confounded at the amount of knowledge I gained.  And no, I am not on percocet.

The highlights:

1)  Sunni uses a extremely fine non-woven fusible to interface her all three zipper techniques. This interfacing is fusible and 1 1/4 inches wide (perfect for 5/8 seam zippers).  Here is where you can find it - Sunni's shop - or direct from the Emma Seabrooke (who lives in Islamorada in the Florida Keys).

2) The zipper instruction includes slot seam zippers, with and without lining, invisible zippers, with and without lining, and finally a lapped zipper insertion.

3) I learned I was putting on my waistband in an awkward way when using a lining of a skirt and inserting an invisible zipper.  I learned apparently from dastardly pattern instructions.  This is worth viewing alone.   She shows a fantastic technique (that will require that your pattern pieces and waistband be close to perfect, however) where the zipper and back waist is finished first all by machine rather than by hand.

4)  I never thought I would want to do a lapped zipper - but she makes it seem so easy and exquisite.

5)  For both zippers, lapped and slot seam, other than the invisible - she uses 1/4" Steam-a-Seam Tape (available everywhere) to effectively baste the zipper.  I'm going to have to invest in this.  I use wonder tape and it never does a good job.  Too gunky - I end up changing needles frequently.  Wonder tape out/Steam-a-Seam In.

6) I need to buy an invisible zipper foot - specifically Bernina #35.  I can't believe I don't have one - I'm a bit of a foot addict.

7)  I learned finally how to finish the back seam of the skirt flawlessly, with or without lining.  The tails of my zippers are always wonky and rarely are perfect - now that I see by video how she does it, while she provides tips.   I think my execution now will improve!

Highly recommended! And, I viewed all the lessons in one evening about 2 hours.  They are short but somewhat time consuming, nonetheless.

I'm already through lesson 3 on the Craftsy class - The Classic Tailored Shirt!

How did we ever recover from sickness or injury before the internet??

XOXO, P.

Hand Couture Stitching Class

Hello Readers,

I've just completed my first sewing class online! Of all things, it was the couture methods involving handstitching - which, paradoxically I signed up for less than a mere week after acquiring my wonderful vintage serger.

Susan Khalje (Susan's Website), a wonderful couture designer, hosted the online class on Pattern Review - and guess what, I kinda really like hand stitching now.  It has a certain look, and when done well, is gorgeous.  And, I think, the most important aspect is the amount of control it gives you when stitching (zippers, lining, and gathering can be very easy!).

Here are some stitches that I really liked best:

The Prick Stitch (an easy variation of the back stitch) - here is my practice zipper (first try!):

The catch stitch (for adhering fabric have linings or lace)

The fell stitch (the go-to stitch for security). I have it pictured below attaching two lace pieces.  But in reality it is THE stitch used, for example, to put in linings by hand because of its strength.

We are also learning hand-overcasting, the slipstitch, the basting stitch, the backstitch, the blanket stitch, buttonhole stitch (using buttonhole twist thread), and the invisible hem stitch.  We also learned how and when to use beeswax!

There were some other techniques and stitches taught as well!  One that I didn't master was the thread chain.  This particular decorative stitch is used to attach the lining to the skirt or for belts, for example.

We also learned about threads and needles (size 9 sharps are best for hand-sewing; cotton, polyester, mix of cotton polyester or silk finish cotton threads are all used frequently (she recommends high quality imported threads, like Guterman or Mettler).

Unexpectedly fun class!

I also stated I was going to post on my serger class - I've since decided not too - I read over my post and it was too defensive and a bit snarky.  I wish this blog to be a positive sewing blog!

Hopefully, now I'll actually sew something:)

Fantastic Series: Signe Chanel

Dear Readers,

Thanks to Erica B!,  I realized there was a series of fashion shows on the Sundance Channel.

I feel in love with a series called Signe Chanel. . .it's a french documentary that is a reality show featuring the wonderful seamstresses and teams of french seamstresses that turn eclectic Karl Lagerfeld's sketches into clothes.  It feature the making of the collection in 2004/2005 30 days prior to the runway show (from sketches to runway).  Episode One below.  

Episode One above - in slightly diminished format. 

It's fantastic.  The series features Madame Martine, Madame Cecile and Madame Laurence - who amazingly from their own talent turn these sketches from Karl into Chanel one of a kind pieces in record time!   Their skill is astounding.  Nearly everything in the line is handstitched.  And they are so quick.

You will meet 75 year old Madame Pouzieux who is the sole person that makes 100% of the braid for Chanel (but really enjoys her horses and foles). . .she made her own loom and does her own weaving.  Coco met her after the war and commissioned her to make her unique braid, and she has been doing so every since.  Interns have been out to learn her technique but so far no one can do it. 

The show also highlights some of the superstitions involved in sewing.  For instance, each wedding dress has a piece of hair of a single girl making it (she must braid a single strand of hair to ensure she marries). . . .or dropping scissor can mean death!  If a garment falls to the floor - it will be loved. . . . there are many others. . . 

Chanel is run like a business - but it apparently employs the best seamstresses in France.  It was very easy to watch - even though subtitled. 

 It's actual on youtube in a very good definition at this THIS LINK (apparently copyright clearances are not an issue).

Have fun!


I was amazed.  Now I want to increase my hand stitching skills.  I see pattern review has an online class.  Anyone ever take one?


Pammie