Red Jeans Everywhere! JStern 0037 Jeans review.

Dear readers,

As promised, JStern jeans, my second version, in red stretch denim from the much-loved TNT pattern.   Red jeans are in (as far as trends) right now - I'm seeing them everywhere.  ( I also chopped 16" off my hair - this is the wavy version).

 I bought the fabric from mood.  I'm wearing Danski clogs, bought in Seattle during a rainstorm two years ago, and a rain jacket from Anthropologie I'm not sure I'm keeping (it really never rains here but may be very good for travel for a less sporty option).

 Again, they are a perfect fit.  I took Jennifer's class at ASG in Los Angeles where she led us through a  fitting session (and in which I blogged about in detail).  I used stretch denim.  Her instructions state to use denim with no more than 2-3% stretch and these jeans probably have 30%!  I bought the fabric from Mood back in September.  So, I sewed the crotch and inseams the same as directed and used a 3/4 hem on the sides and I have plenty of room to move.

I also deepened and extended the back crotch curve and deepened and extended the front crotch curve.  Result: comfy!

 Here they are again, a bit closer up - really a wonderful fit and I'm thrilled.

 Here is the flat version - as you can see my waist is almost the same as my hips (darn it!).

 My fancy button ordered from ebay!

Another big decision were the pockets.  I left a simple pattern with no hoods on the pockets.  I thought that red was enough.  However, I did make a mistake.  The pockets are stretchy and when I attached them the tops were stretched - so these are mock pockets without a pocket opening, so they lay flat!

I recommend if using stretch denim to use a material such as silk organza as an interfacing, and to add ribbon or other materials inside where the pocket opening exists to reinforce the opening (high end jeans do this I see in my RTW jeans).  Therefore, you get reinforced pockets with little to no stretch.

One more recommendation - Jennifer recommends sewing on the pockets before the pants are put together (outseams and inseams); however, I wait until right before I put on the belt loops - it seams I am very picky about the placement.  I recommend this method, although it does make it more difficult to sew the pockets on.  But I'm okay with the difficulty I'm much more concerned with pocket placement.

This pattern is a dream to sew up and I highly recommend it.

Now, what to do with myself - I have no more UFOs.  I bought some quilting material and have plenty of patterns and stash material to sew.  I'm pretty excited to catch up on my projects!

Jeans, again . . .

All,

I am starting my JSterns jeans again in red denim.  I have them cut, serged the appropriate parts - and am getting ready to start sewing today.

I forgot to post some details on my first pair:
I did finish my jeans using some nickel rivets from Tandy leather company
and inexpensive (it shows!) Fabric Store Jeans Buttons.

However, you can buy really great buttons at this link and rivets (even in nickel black) at Grommet Mart.  I bought some new rivets and jeans buttons off a cool ebay seller LINK HERE.:
Celtic Rivets:

 H script button:

As for denim fabric, I have previously bought mine at Mood, and at Fabric Town, a locally owned fabric store and have now found a new source, Pacific Denim Outlet - who sells to the Jeans Designers here - I'm checking into it and will get back to you.

Premium high design denims are normally (but not always there are some domestics) imported from outside the United States, but manufactured to a finished garment in Los Angeles.

Here is a pair of True Religion Jeans Below (bought for less than 20.00 at True Religion outlet but priced retail at around 200.00).  Note the techniques used in distressing the denim.

The first technique, I believe, is sand-washing (this is what I am calling it). Note the distressing in both photos around the knees and the back of the jeans.  By the way, this denim here is HEAVY - not a light lycra blend.

The second, note the whiskers on the denim in the picture above.

I've attached a great youtube videos explaining the technique that you may enjoy.

Perhaps a handy husband or boyfriend might help out in the quest to achieve the perfect distressed denim.  J. is a musician, so I am out of luck, unless I can convince my father or brother to assist!

Completed: First Pair of Jeans, JStern 0037 (or Self-Stitched Jeans, the LA Way)

Dear readers!

Completed.  My first pair of jeans, Jennifer Stern Designs No. 0037.

Well, almost - I didn't put the jeans button fly, pocket buttons or the rivets  on (yet). 

MNBarb from Pattern Review (message board discussion here) probably provided one of the best link for jeans buttons - I'm going to order them from this ebay seller - Dimebuttons - link is Here.  Apparently, since LA is the hub (reputedly 80% of the high end jeans are designed here) - I should be able to buy some fantastic supplies; I need to hunt some down stat!

For more information on the high ends jeans manufacturing in Los Angeles - check out this LA Times Article, "Premium Jeans the Los Angeles Way."   One of the key aspects of this business is that LA manufacturers can take orders as late as 2:00 pm and have them out by 5:00 pm.  Wow!  According to research, wholesale denim (high end) can cost anywhere from 12.00 a yard to 25.00 a yard.  My denim was 6.00 a yard:)  I am going to check out sources for us readers, my recollection is that Mood has some good denim.  

Above is a close up - I do need to work on my execution skills.  I made these in 6.00 dark denim for a boot cut.  I lost 10 pounds since my muslin fittting so instead of 1/2" inseams, outseams and crotch curve - I cut 3/4".  Which worked out well and is still a bit loose (although you cannot tell from the pictures).  I only felled the back crotch curve and the yoke (and do need to work on those skills).  Also I pulled out the wonder tape at the crotch and   redid that topstitching so until I wash them they appear a little gunky.  By the way the fly is absolutely flat - but without a button it's pulling a little with belt.

On the others I used a denim double needle to simulate the felling.  However, I don't recommend the use of the denim double needle.  I made a mistake and in pulling up the stitches cut a hole in the inseam - I took up the right leg 1/4" and am experience some pulling (not evident in the pictures) on that side but I can live with that.  These jeans need a good wash - so I can get off all the tiny threads!

I am particularly pleased with the back - I place the decoratively stitched pockets once the jeans were assembled (the directions called for them to be done before the inseams and outseams are complete) - and placed the pockets 1 down near the middle of the back and sloped it down to 1 1/4".  On the I also slated the pockets starting from 1" from the back middle crotch curve to 1 1/2" as to go down.

Another essential tool is an awl which sewing.  Really critical.  I am working and made some great progress on my topstitching!  I am definitely making these again and will use a contrast thread most probably next time - and higher end denim (and maybe corduroy).  I'd also like to make a wide leg version ala Hudson Gwen jeans pictured here.

I have written a Pattern Review here for more detailed information.

The end.

P.S.  After reviewing the pictures - I am definitely going to switch from a YKK Jeans Zipper 3.5" to a 5".

Considering Jeans.

Dear readers,

I'm in the middle of making a great pair of jeans; and in doing so, I am taking my time (gasp!).  Yes, it's true - I'm not rushing to get through!

I said I've never make jeans because I love high end RTW jeans and have quite a few pairs.  But, as they say, never say never!  I'm doing it after taking J. Stern's Jeans Fit class at the ASG and loving it.   What a fun project.  Since I'm taking my time I'm going to do a series of posts about my trials and tribulations - and about making choices.  Once you have your muslin fitting (the stage I'm at) it's all about making choices.



Now, that said, I've lost 8 pounds since the muslin fitting (I'm not traveling for work and have cut out beans (lectins), wheat and sugar for the most part.  So, I am proposing a few new techniques in the form of construction choices:



First, deciding whether to flat fell the outseams and inseams (the yoke is called for to be felled in J. Stern's jeans pattern and is a classic technique used in jeans).

My favorite jeans are boot cut Hudson jeans.  As you can see here the outseams are topstitched rather than flat-felled, and the entire inseams are flat-felled.

 Here is a pair of skinny jeans -  rock and republic - although their crotch line is flat-felled - their inseams are not flat-felled.  Also, notice that the outseams are flat-felled at what looks to be 1/2 inch rather than the standard 3/4 inch.

 Sorry about the open crotch construction shots - this isn't normally a "dirty" blog:)

My thought is to flat-fell the inseam and crotch area and consider (based on fit) whether to do the outseams in a full 3/4 inch flat-fell seamed.  I am concerned that I've lost weight and that my jeans denim (dark and pictured below) has more than the 1-2% stretch recommended for this pattern.  The roll was unmarked as to lycra percentage when I bought it.

Another choice which must be made is what color thread to top-stitch and whether to use a pattern or embroidery on the pockets:

Hudson Jeans:  no pattern

Rock and republic:  Embroidery and use of matching thread to topstitch:

Two sewing bloggers have done amazing pockets - check them out:

1)  Katy did an unique "medical inspired" pocket  HERE at the most Awesome Pocket ever!

2)  Dawn did an wonderful embroidered pocket  - I couldn't find the pictures on her blog, Two One Two Off, but have put the link to the pattern review (she and Katy did the Jalie Jeans pattern 2708) HERE.

Since the jeans are dark I'm thinking of topstitching with a medium jeans blue thread.  (J. thinks this is a good idea as my prior attempts at topstitching have been iffy).  I have bought a dual jeans needle.

 I may put a pattern on the pockets, below these are my tests on the jeans fabric I bought:

 I really like the geometric design:

And, the wave:

By the way, if you'd like some pictures of other jeans, please comment - I do have a wide variety to photograph in my arsenal (levi's, true religion, J-brand, etc.).

Today - I'm doing pockets and the zipper.  Tomorrow's post will be about the history of jeans (and the rise of high-end jeans manufactured in Los Angeles).