Decades of Style 1944 House Dress

Dear readers,

Since having minor foot surgery and staying home for two weeks - this second week I have been sewing my head off - I've completed this reproduction dress, a pair of knitted fingerless mitts, and a quick shirt.

First, my completed Decades of Style 1944 House Dress.  I bought the fabric online from Gorgeous Fabrics last year .  (Note to self:  I am going to start attaching tags to my fabric with date and source).  The colors of this dress were inspired by a Rose Bowl game here in Pasadena - actually the BCS Championship in Pasadena (Univ. of Alabama v. Univ. of Texas).  I thought I am going to make a dress to wear with my brother to the next Alabama championship - it's only taken me over three years.

Please note I couldn't get the color quite right . I tried to lighten then darken it.   I also chose not to attach black pockets - J. thought it would drive the dress into costume territory (not that this is necessarily a bad thing).

I used this transparent print that I underlined with batiste (rather than voile) - it was the only fabric I could find in black locally (without driving to Mood).  The batiste seemed heavier than I originally desired  - I could barely fell-stitch the lining or attach the snaps.  

A fashion savvy friend of mine suggested avoiding the fabric, below - my original choice - so I need to send him a picture - he was right - this had the wrong hand for the pattern.  

As usual, I kept getting photo-bombed by my Kerry Blue Terrier, Pixie.   I also wanted to make this pattern since I bought it at Sew LA.   I made a toile, first, and made the adjustments.  Then I underlined all the pieces and serged the edges.  I changed my serger thread to maxi-lock - and guess what?  Perfect serging!  Just as I was about to purchase a Babylock evolution.  Blast!

 Oh Pixie!! You little sweetie!

I made several style decisions in sewing this the dress - I made a border for the collar from Gertie's Tutorial - using rickrack edging - and used the same technique on the sleeve.  I am very happy with how it came out.   

I also used the square collar directions that came in the package - I probably would NOT do that again.   Especially with the thin fabric I was using - it was very wonky.  Next time I am rethinking construction of the collar.  I also made my own sleeves after reading reviews of the pattern.  I also chose to hem the pattern right below the knee.  

The back is a perfect fit - and super comfy.

 This collar looks a lot better in pictures than in reality, below:

 The dress on my PGM dressform, below:

My final thought is that this pattern is drafted ridiculously well.  I made only minor changes overall.  Apparently, it has been redrafted from the original pattern in today's sizes by Decades of Styles - which I love.  It took me a week to make this dress after the toile.  True, I was post-surgery, but I have read that other bloggers have sewn it up in less than four hours.  I don't see that - even without underlining - but I do tend to dawdle with my sewing.   This dress I really focused on construction techniques - and I still wasn't 100 percent happy with the execution.  Yes, I would definitely make this again, most likely with vintage-insprired fabric.
XOXO, P.
P.S.  I missed my opportunity posing like the original with a broom - I must do a derivative post now:)

Vogue 8667 Finally Finished:)

Dear Readers,

Ok, I'm only two weeks late on the publishing of this finished dress.  My second, and it's a much better fit.  I worked hard on the bodice with the princess seams.

Here's the back view - which is a better fit than what this picture suggests.

''

Whew!  Boy I need a haircut.  

I've reviewed this pattern before so, here we go:

What I liked:  Fun, easy, princess-seam pattern with retro good looks in a variety of styles.  I love the two-tone - which Eugenia ingeniously concocted in one of her dresses.  Great fit.  I added the selvage flowers and pockets which match the bodice. . . 

Peek-a-boo

 Flowers - my big design element.

My challenges:  The bodice fit - which I blogged about last post.  I wish I could add the collar to this version - I ran out of tropical material.  I lined it - which was challenging considering the double knit material I used on the skirt and somewhat skewed the absolutely perfect fit I had going on previously.  

I also handpicked the zipper and used a variety of couture techniques. . . fell stitching on the armholes and to finish the lining.  

Hand-picked Zipper.  My favorite.

Next up:  I'm in the middle of the pants sew-a-long by Sunni, The Cupcake Goddess, working on my muslin fit.  I am taking a cloning class by Kenneth King, and I've been shout out by Sue of Sew-Misunderstood!  Thanks - the posts are forthcoming.

This dress should work wonderfully  -  I'm headed to Hawaii in a week for two weeks for a work trip - although I planned to make a new bathing suit - that project has now been delayed. .  . Pattern review on this dress to follow. 

Vogue 8667 Version 2 Almost!

Dear readers,

I've almost finished Vogue 8667 version 2.  The dress is pictured below - it needs some finishing - which I will do upon my return from a trip east later this week:


First, I must thank (profusely) Eugenia from Eugenia's (Fabulous) World of Fashion, who gave me the idea of the two tone ensemble when my fabric selection for the bodice was insufficient in terms of amount of material.

She constructed the same dress in this method and its a knock out.

I have also constructed two deconstructed flowers to attach to the dress - in the shoulder/bodice area, I think. . 

I will model the dress next weekend  - however, I did two processes I may not choose to do again on this dress.  First, I lined the dress with cotton voile - I think that affected the fit a bit - although it's a great fit so far - it actually felt better without the lining (I'll explain that in the next post).

Second, I added pockets and looking at the silhouette I believe this changed the lines of the skirt.

By the way, if you don't know - Auburn is playing in the BCS National Championship in Arizona (I'm on a last minute trip and missing the game).  However, as sewing inspriration - I'd like to give a shout out to Sister at
Living La VIda Loca! - who has sewn, and perfected, the perfect Kwik Sew polar fleece jacket.  War Eagle!!

Decades of Style Patterns

Dear Readers,

Whilst I was taking my class - I did have a chance to shop and here is my bounty - I can't wait to make these up:

Two Decades of Style patterns that I have been waiting to buy for awhile (apparently Decades of Style had a trunk show with all the designs sewn up that I missed two weeks ago (of course).

Decades of Style 1940s House Dress

Decades of Style 1940s New England Dress:

Also, I bought three yards of this cotton lawn, which does have some cross-stretch - it is NOT a liberty print - but does remind me of the type of prints Liberty is famous for.  I was thinking of making Vogue 8667 in this print but after trying on my muslin - I think I will save it for another project. 

I also got this thick canvas Japanese robot print to make a Green Pepper messenger bag for J.  Unfortunately, he doesn't think the material is substantial enough for his books (it is - especially if reinforced) But, hey, I'm not going to argue - so yeah!! I can use this somehow for a project of mine!

Dear readers, if you have sewn Decades of Style patterns - I would love to hear about it!  Tips are appreciated!

Colette Macaron Second Version Finished at Last!

Hello Readers!

I've finally finished the Colette Macaron - despite a blunder with my blind stitch hem this morning.

I'm fairly pleased with it.  I made it out of Echino Fabric (from the fabulous Sew-LA). . . which is a very thin cotton linen blend.  I took my time to make the dress - and I think the two mistakes I made were:  (1)  the upper band isn't totally straight (I'm thinking of re-attaching), and (2) the side with the invisible zipper doesn't match!

(Update:  Late morning day of post - the pictures on this blog convinced me to re-sew/re-attach the upper midriff band - it looks a lot better now!!). I've posted the pix below:

I did some new techniques on this dress - I stabilized the neck with silk ribbon and did the armholes the same way.  I lined the dress with a very thin high quality cotton - although I've had a hard time getting the lining perfect.

I topstitched both the neckline and sleeves because of the light weight quality of the fabric and lining - I couldn't get these areas to lay perfect despite a large amount of steaming and pressing. I even understitched, to no avail.  I believe the topstitching corrected this tendency of the fabric to roll.

Here is the side of the fabric where I actually matched the sides correctly.

I also bought a rolled hem foot and I LOVE IT!  I blindstitched the hem and then used the rolled foot on the lining - wow!  I need to perfect this technique but I really do like it.

I also used a cotton thread (rather than polyester) in sewing the rolled hem and I believe that helped!  Ah, the wonders of feet.

Finally, I include a picture of the garment on my dressform!

For the pattern review, click Here.