1944 House Dress Underlining and Snaps

Dear readers,

If you remember I created the 1944 House dress where I blogged about it HERE.
I did two techniques very different from my normal process.
First, I underlined the dress -- a different technique than a lining.

The fashion fabric was very sheer.

I chose a black batiste for the underlining.  In retrospect, a lighter weight voile fit the project better -- the batiste is a bit dense - making the dress a tad bit heavier -- and causing my fingers to be sore pushing the needles through the fabric for hand-stitching the finishes.  Threads has a great article on underlining that discusses the change of hand for the fashion fabric (click on the link to go there).  

Overall, I did find the underlining much easier to sewing rather than a lining in this project.  I serged the fabric fabric and underlining together and assembled the dress as I would if no lining was involved.  

I did think a red voile might have been a better background color -- but couldn't source the red locally, so I was eager to start the project and in the end, I'm happy with the black. 

The square collar, below, under construction was difficult to set correctly.  The picture blow shows the collar before I turned it inside out and top-stitched it.  The corners were especially challenging.  The setting may have been easier without the underlining, in this instance.

I will make this dress again -- but I will do so without the underlining.  That will make for a super simple and easy project, since I have all the details worked out now. 

Note to self:  For three years, I've been using cheap serger thread.   I finally changed to Maxi-Lock  -- it has made all the difference.  I love it.  No breaks, and much easier to thread the serger.  I have a vintage serger, the Bernette 334, made by Juki around 1980.  All steel baby.  And, the smell of ozone while it's serging. 

Second, in the construction of the dress - I used heavy duty snaps.  The snaps make the dress so easy to get in and out of (Easy In -  Easy Out).  I also preferred heavy snaps so there were no surprises when I was wearing the dress during the day.  I found it very tricky to insert the snaps - both process-wise and in the execution -- that is, ensuring the correct distance between the snaps. I used the Home Pro Tool set, with nailhead and eyelet die sets (bought at Ace Sewing) in the LA Fashion District. 

Having the correct tools is key in the snap world.   I don't know if I would recommend this set yet.  It seems more substantial than the hand tools.  It has no directions that accompany the piece.  I know it does a variety of services - - but can't figure out (yet) everything.  I originally bought this when I was in the middle of my jeans obsession.  I had a hand tool that broke.  But this set is expensive, considering that I don't bedazzle everything.  But perhaps I should rethink that and start bedazzling everything.   That would bring down my cost per bedazzle. 

What snap tool do you use?

XOXO, P.

1944 House Dress -- Pockets or Not?

Dear readers,

If you remember, I produced a 1944 House Dress in June.  I love it. I love the snaps, and it's so comfortable.  One of my favorites.

However.
I didn't add the pockets.

What do you think -- do the pockets add to the dress?  I'm thinking about it.   The print I think is enough.  The pockets below are not folded yet for the SA, and are pinned to the dress for conceptualization.

Yeah, OR

Nay:

J. thought the pockets made the dress too costumey.  I tend to agree.  But when I was reviewing the pictures after an absence -- I had to ask.

XOXO, Pam

Decades of Style 1944 House Dress

Dear readers,

Since having minor foot surgery and staying home for two weeks - this second week I have been sewing my head off - I've completed this reproduction dress, a pair of knitted fingerless mitts, and a quick shirt.

First, my completed Decades of Style 1944 House Dress.  I bought the fabric online from Gorgeous Fabrics last year .  (Note to self:  I am going to start attaching tags to my fabric with date and source).  The colors of this dress were inspired by a Rose Bowl game here in Pasadena - actually the BCS Championship in Pasadena (Univ. of Alabama v. Univ. of Texas).  I thought I am going to make a dress to wear with my brother to the next Alabama championship - it's only taken me over three years.

Please note I couldn't get the color quite right . I tried to lighten then darken it.   I also chose not to attach black pockets - J. thought it would drive the dress into costume territory (not that this is necessarily a bad thing).

I used this transparent print that I underlined with batiste (rather than voile) - it was the only fabric I could find in black locally (without driving to Mood).  The batiste seemed heavier than I originally desired  - I could barely fell-stitch the lining or attach the snaps.  

A fashion savvy friend of mine suggested avoiding the fabric, below - my original choice - so I need to send him a picture - he was right - this had the wrong hand for the pattern.  

As usual, I kept getting photo-bombed by my Kerry Blue Terrier, Pixie.   I also wanted to make this pattern since I bought it at Sew LA.   I made a toile, first, and made the adjustments.  Then I underlined all the pieces and serged the edges.  I changed my serger thread to maxi-lock - and guess what?  Perfect serging!  Just as I was about to purchase a Babylock evolution.  Blast!

 Oh Pixie!! You little sweetie!

I made several style decisions in sewing this the dress - I made a border for the collar from Gertie's Tutorial - using rickrack edging - and used the same technique on the sleeve.  I am very happy with how it came out.   

I also used the square collar directions that came in the package - I probably would NOT do that again.   Especially with the thin fabric I was using - it was very wonky.  Next time I am rethinking construction of the collar.  I also made my own sleeves after reading reviews of the pattern.  I also chose to hem the pattern right below the knee.  

The back is a perfect fit - and super comfy.

 This collar looks a lot better in pictures than in reality, below:

 The dress on my PGM dressform, below:

My final thought is that this pattern is drafted ridiculously well.  I made only minor changes overall.  Apparently, it has been redrafted from the original pattern in today's sizes by Decades of Styles - which I love.  It took me a week to make this dress after the toile.  True, I was post-surgery, but I have read that other bloggers have sewn it up in less than four hours.  I don't see that - even without underlining - but I do tend to dawdle with my sewing.   This dress I really focused on construction techniques - and I still wasn't 100 percent happy with the execution.  Yes, I would definitely make this again, most likely with vintage-insprired fabric.
XOXO, P.
P.S.  I missed my opportunity posing like the original with a broom - I must do a derivative post now:)