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Dear readers,

I am merely testing out the bloglovin site, and "claiming" my blog.

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XOXO, P.

Review of Free Craftsy Class on Mastering Zipper Techniques

Dear readers,

I'm stuck in bed (mostly) convalescing from minor foot surgery.  So, I cannot sew, or really do anything sitting yet - but what I can do:  finally watch my Craftsy classes while I put off finishing knitting projects!

First one up - a class featuring Sunni from A Fashionable Stitch -  on Mastering Zipper Techniques.  I previously bought gorgeous sewing pressing hams from her and love them still.

The class was free at Craftsy Online Classes  - I wasn't totally sure what I would learn from the class at first.  I am already signed up for the zipper class at ASG in Arlington this summer.  But I was confounded at the amount of knowledge I gained.  And no, I am not on percocet.

The highlights:

1)  Sunni uses a extremely fine non-woven fusible to interface her all three zipper techniques. This interfacing is fusible and 1 1/4 inches wide (perfect for 5/8 seam zippers).  Here is where you can find it - Sunni's shop - or direct from the Emma Seabrooke (who lives in Islamorada in the Florida Keys).

2) The zipper instruction includes slot seam zippers, with and without lining, invisible zippers, with and without lining, and finally a lapped zipper insertion.

3) I learned I was putting on my waistband in an awkward way when using a lining of a skirt and inserting an invisible zipper.  I learned apparently from dastardly pattern instructions.  This is worth viewing alone.   She shows a fantastic technique (that will require that your pattern pieces and waistband be close to perfect, however) where the zipper and back waist is finished first all by machine rather than by hand.

4)  I never thought I would want to do a lapped zipper - but she makes it seem so easy and exquisite.

5)  For both zippers, lapped and slot seam, other than the invisible - she uses 1/4" Steam-a-Seam Tape (available everywhere) to effectively baste the zipper.  I'm going to have to invest in this.  I use wonder tape and it never does a good job.  Too gunky - I end up changing needles frequently.  Wonder tape out/Steam-a-Seam In.

6) I need to buy an invisible zipper foot - specifically Bernina #35.  I can't believe I don't have one - I'm a bit of a foot addict.

7)  I learned finally how to finish the back seam of the skirt flawlessly, with or without lining.  The tails of my zippers are always wonky and rarely are perfect - now that I see by video how she does it, while she provides tips.   I think my execution now will improve!

Highly recommended! And, I viewed all the lessons in one evening about 2 hours.  They are short but somewhat time consuming, nonetheless.

I'm already through lesson 3 on the Craftsy class - The Classic Tailored Shirt!

How did we ever recover from sickness or injury before the internet??

XOXO, P.

New Years Goals: Almost half way through where do I stand?

Dear Readers,

I am apparently, revising my New Years goals - I'm home for two weeks following some minor foot surgery and eventually hope to make something (or finish that day dress!).  I've come a long way on my goals so now I am adding some "embellishments."

1.  Expand my knitting skills.  (Update: Complete, except for sweater - I learned DPNs, fingerless mitts (1 set down - the second set, Suzie's below are 35% complete), hat and socks, and bought a craftsy sweater class).  Expansion:  I bought an complete fleece (saddle and sides) from my office colleague (it's grey/rose and soft) - I may learn to also spin once I have the fleece treated!

 The above pattern is free, Susie's Reading Mitts, available at Ravelry (Thanks Tanya of Sew Sassy Again for the link to this pattern).

The class I bought is below, Celtic Cables, from the talented Irish Knitting Designer, Carol Feller, whose blog is stolen stitches, to learn to do a Aran sweater (yes, my obsession with Irish culture continues).  However, I have not bought the yarn quite yet.  

2.  Perfect a button down dress shirt.  I purchased a craftsy course:  The Classic Tailored Shirt by Pam Howard. I plan to make my own pattern with my sloper.  Update:  Materials all bought - need to sew.

3.  Make a tailored jacket - like the Colette Patterns, Anise.  This will take some hand tailoring skills.  Sarai of Colette Patterns has a wonderful Anise Sew-Along.  I love Colette Patterns. Update: I am going to try to squeeze in my green fabric - I have all the materials necessary after becoming discouraged and stopping because I perceived that I didn't have enough fabric.  Thanks for the comments readers.  I do plan to make a toile first.

4.  Sew at least one Wearing History/Decades of Style/Hotpatterns' garment.  I'm not sure which but one of the below!  Although I've owned these independent designers' patterns for awhile - I've never taken the plunge to sew them up! (Update:  Day dress toile made and altered - need to sew it up).  

5.  Stash and Pattern Busting.  Bust some of my stash and get through some of the fabulous fabric I own waiting to be made up into a wearable garment, either from my slopers or my abundance of patterns.  This is not my current stash below, believe me - it' (Update:  I gave some fabric to the Breast Cancer sewing group - and am using stash materials - so I'm trying!).

6.  Expansion:  Learn to hand embroider.  Yep I said it.  Hand-embroider.  I know my machine, the Bernina 430 has the option to buy the machine embroidery unit (pricey - and the deal - killer - I have a Mac rather than Windows) - but hand-embroidery is just as nice and a bit funkier. 

7.  Expansion:  Learn to play the ukulele - Learning to play does help when my BFF/SO  is a professional musician.  I bought a Hawaiian Ukulele (Concert Koaloha) in early March after buying a ukulele for J. for Christmas and using his.  We can already play about 20 songs already (tabs/chords).  I am amazed - especially since I can't read a note of music or play any other instruments.   I will post a video when I can of J. and I - we formed a uke duo.   Bring on the camp.  Our favorites:  Island in the Sun, Raindrops Keep Falling on my Head, All My Loving, Love Me Do, Stand by Me, Take Me Home Country Roads, and Surfing U.S.A.  The great thing about ukulele is you are allowed to have fun, and not take yourself too seriously. 

Readers, how are you doing mid-year with your goals?  Any revisions?  

XOXO, P.

RIP Kerry Blue Terrier Extraordinaire Paddy McGee

Dear readers,

I am heartbroken to report that our elder Kerry Blue Terrier Paddy passed away after an intense battle with spinal pain and injury for the past 14 days (from apparent degenerative spinal bone loss (the vets and our family suspected cancer of the spine without confirmation) not from a specific event, we think).   He was almost 12.

I adopted him at 6 after his doctor dog parents both had Alzheimer's; he went into the Southern California rescue group after escaping from his guardian and surviving a severe attack by another dog.  We loved him, and taught him the virtues of hiking and frolicking on the beach which he loved (his favorite was Rincon).  He loved riding in the car, and I tried to take him on many car rides.  He was a loyal friend - and the first dog I adopted on my own.  I was in Vegas when I made the decision upon seeing his picture - I knew he was the one.  I loved him from the time I set eyes on him when he came to visit and stayed.

You never know when life is going to change so suddenly.  Just a little over two weeks ago he was fine, he had slowed down considerably (very stoic and good boy) since his birthday in October).

I love you Paddy and will miss you horribly.

XOXO, Pammie

Vintage U.S. Navy Uniforms Part I

Dear readers,

You may or may not remember me mentioning this - but I'm a retired Commander in the Navy.   A bit shocking, I know.  As such, I'm a bit obsessed with the uniforms and the changes that occurred specifically to women's uniforms.  And, I am surprised at the decrease in quality between the current uniforms (both design, fit and sometimes, construction) as compared to the uniforms women wore in the WWII era.  These are two examples of women's uniforms in seersucker from that era.  Beautifully tailored.

According to the U.S. Navy historical website:

Women officer uniforms were upgraded during the war years. There had been little precedent for women’s wear in the Navy since World War I; therefore a panel of civilian experts in the design and fashion field was called upon to create a set of uniforms which when devoid of buttons and braid would correspond to a smart businesswoman’s suit. Their efforts resulted in the present single breasted blues and whites worn by women naval officers. The Nurse’s hat continued as a visorless duplicate of the males during this period and the Nurses retained a double breasted blue jacket. (It is interesting to note, however, that women’s regulations were published separately from their male counterparts. It was considered that the great influx of women into the service was only a wartime oddity and would recede when hostilities ceased.)

Women’s uniforms were the same for officer, chief, and other enlisted, differing only in rank identification. Work uniforms included a coverall and slacks for use when the skirt was inappropriate. 

Look at the picture below - wonderful piping detail and tailored sleeves.

You can see the princess cut in the back as well - very unusual in uniforms today.

A closer picture of the seeksucker and princess seams.

Beautiful collar and princess seaming.

Again - look at the contouring of the princess seam - you can see the serging on the inside.  This was apparently a working uniform rather than a dress uniform.

Beautiful piping for work uniform.

Below is a a more dress suit type of uniform - again, seersucker.  Look at the full skirt - unusual for today.

Beautiful pockets and again, princess seams.

Here was the display (in Pensacola)

A historical man's uniform below:

A pilot/bomber cover (hat) below:

Here is the flight suit - an older version from WWI.

And, some frivolity.  The men's mess dress with "hidden" Hawaiian sleeves.  Of course, this isn't vintage.   Taken from the uniform shop in Pearl Harbor.

I'd like to make a reproduction seersucker suit - it is on my "to do" list.  I have a Brooks Brothers modern suit - but it is not at all close to the tailored construction of the 50s.  

More on Navy women's uniforms will continue in future posts!

XOXO, P.

Yoga Socks - and back! (From my travels)

Dear readers,

Sorry about the long absence.  I've been traveling for work - which makes sewing very difficult - not to mention blogging.  I did complete, however, some yoga socks.  And, I've tried them out in Pilates on the Tower/Cadillac - and I can report they are effective!

Yes, I was photobombed as normal.  I used sock yarn - and it took quite some time to finish!  I used tiny needles size 1 - 2.25.

The pattern was free - here is the link for Patron Yoga Sock #153- but you will have to join the Patron Site to view the pattern, I believe.

And, my link to my ravelry site and project information:  PammieandthePs Ravelry Page.

Again, more posts are forthcoming - I'm home for awhile!  Hurray.  I've been doing mending since arriving home on Friday, and loving it.   Note, I bought the new Threads while delayed at the SFO airport on Thursday (amazing they carried it at Hudson News), and really soaked every word up.

XOXO, P.

St. Paddy's Day Tule Cowl (Finally!)

Dear readers, 

       I finally finished this cowl in Hawaii - it took me quite a bit of time to finish and isn't my best work - but I'm glad it's finally done!  I wore it out last night and am wearing it today (while making my Corned Beef and Cabbage). . . .

 A close up - not completely perfect:

 By the way, a year has gone by and I haven't made this coat dress yet, below.  It's on my wishlist.

Kate Middleton, Duchess of Cambridge, below, still looks fab in the dress with the alternations for her condition.  I love how the English royalty tend to keep their best pieces and merely alter the garments.  It is quite noticeable in some pictures.

I am however, still working on my day dress.  This weekend,  I made a toile and it needed some minor alternations.   So, hopefully today I plan to cut out the fashion fabric to finish before Thursday - for another St. Paddy's Day celebration (and I'm making more corned beef and cabbage!).

Again, this is the material - I think will look fantastic with the cowl.

Yes, apparently I am obsessed with green!

Happy St. Paddy's Day!

P.