Sewing Book Reviews. . .

Dear readers,

I'm in the middle of sewing a skirt, a top, and a pair of shorts for J.  In addition, I've made (oh, horror!) a myriad of home decorative projects!! Yes!  I won't torment you with those - but I did make them from my Japanese fabric scraps.  I've bought the following books over the past six months, along with a short summary of my findings:

1.  Patternmaking for Fashion Design (1st ed.).

Recommendation to buy:  Yes, if you have already taken a patternmaking or sloper (basic block) class.  

This learned book by college professor Helen Joseph Armstrong is excellent, but I do warn you it is a textbook; therefore in my opinion it is best utilized for someone with patternmaking experience or at least has a basic block to start with.  I have fairly comprehensive reading skills, and simply would not have understood it without instruction.  I bought the first edition, on the advice of our instructor at the time.  It tells you how to manipulate darts and how to take your basic block and create designs of your own.  In other words, it frees you from patterns once you have a block of your own.  I enjoy having the extensive technical expertise.  

I have seen the criticisms on Amazon and other reviews, wherein it appears that the editing of the book (in terms of grammar, etc) must be improved.  But, I tell you, it doesn't bother me in the slightest.  I'd bought the book for the technical skill and craft of pattern-making by an experienced instructor - I blame the grammar on the editors. For what I wanted it for - it was excellent!  I hope to start keep using it for a long time to come.

2.  Reader's Digest New Complete Guide to Sewing:

Recommendation for buying:  Yes, with the caveat, only if you don't have a previous edition or want a newer or more modern feel. 

I have heard (and read) from various bloggers and sewing sources - this was a comprehensive source of sewing knowledge.  So, when I saw a new edition, with pretty pictures -- I immediately purchased on sale.  I agree, completely comprehensive source.  If I had known this resource was the best - I think I would have bought this (and only this!) to start out with as a basic beginning sewer.  

3.  Threads Sewing Guide:

Recommendation to Buy:  Yes, for all - I think the intermediate to advanced sewer would enjoy it. 

I am an intermediate sewer (I think I am), and I did find that this was somewhat duplicative of the Reader's Digest source, but that this book had some unusual techniques, and explanations of the techniques in the book that I have not seen before. 

Examples include:  tailoring and lining techniques in detail, more pattern alternations, fundamentals of couture sewing. . . this resource is an excellent complement or companion to the Reader's Digest guide. 

This book is a luxury item, and if you can afford to splurge - you will enjoy it.  It is well-written, contains beautiful pictures.  It is not a necessity; rather the book is a sewing indulgence. 

4.  Sewing Secrets from the Fashion Industry (vintage).

Recommendation for Buying:  Perhaps if you can find a copy for the right price (mine was less than $5.00 at the Chamblin book mine in Jacksonville, Florida).  

For the price I paid and the age of the book - I loved this book - and this initial purchase actually spurred me on my book buying spree of the Threads and Readers Digest materials.  I learned some new techniques I had not seen before.  Specific surprises included:  

Excellent discussions on the pros and cons of buying commercial sewing machines and sergers. 

The use of sewing guides.  I never have used them before but am 

definitely thinking of using the ones that came with my machine; yes, I've heard of other bloggers' lamenting the use of these guides - but I realize even with the best machines I don't sew that straight. 

The ingenious uses of the sewing awl.  The different methodologies explained made me go out and buy one to try.

A guide for seam allowances - although now I have the Armstrong book that discusses this in detail; I found it helpful.

Well, I only wanted to summarize - lots of reviews on these materials are available - but these mentions are from my own viewpoint?

Does anyone have any other recommendations?  I have Susan Khalje's book I really adore on Couture Sewing (the older addition) and other books I don't treasure as much as these. 

Patternmaking class - Finished!

Dear Readers,

I've been off in Newport, RI for a week teaching and returned to finish my bodice block in the advanced patternmaking class I've been taking. . .

Here are the results of my efforts:

And, here are the skirt blocks I made last November - hope they still fit  -  I've gained a few pounds:)  Oh, the piano is my pattern "staging area."

I also use J's piano to stage my patterns that are cut out (heehee!).

For the bodice, I have a different right side and left side because my left shoulder is taller than my right (I attribute this to an old skateboarding rotator cuff injury).

So, double the fun.  One of the most interesting portions of this class was learning my measurements - and quite frankly, they were quite different than I thought.  No wonder RTW never fits perfectly in the bodice area.

I am thrilled to have a bodice block that fits well!  If you are interested Shearie from Sew La masterfully teaches these classes.   They are very complex and now I realize that I didn't know what I didn't know.  In this regard, I mean that  pattern-making is a complex art that takes (I think) years to master.  So, I didn't realize all the measurements that go into a commercial pattern.  I didn't realize (and am still learning) all the ways to manipulate the blocks to achieve a certain look or style.

I also bought the recommended patternmaking book and as an aside, random new and vintage sewing books (I'll review these in an upcoming blog post). . . Off to sew. . .

Happy Fourth of July!!!

Little P relaxing. . .

My little sewing space . . .

Dear readers,

I try to blame my lack of sewing mojo on excessive travel; but really, I had trouble setting up my sewing machines each time to sew.  So, with a little re-arranging - voila!  A dedicated sewing space!

Below:  My stash (I keep it scaled down since I live within an hour to LA's fashion district (unlike my quilting days) and a selection of patterns.  I also organize the stash by: knits, bottom shelf, wovens, second shelf, home decor (canvas, heavy linen), third shelf, and sport material, top shelf.

We live in a small house overlooking the ocean on a hillside - so space is at a premium in our world.  It may be small but I love this little area.

Below: On the window-sill, I see I need an artbin for my serger spools.  I use an old stainless steel table as my cutting table (with the wheels off).

As you can see by the oak tag paper - I'm in the middle of a continued pattern-making class at Sew LA, consisting of making a sloper for the bodice, and learning more about fit and the art of making a pattern.

A small reading area:

A larger perspective below

My main working area (I didn't think this would work but it's fine!)

During the week, I don't keep the iron out. . .

I am enjoying my pattern-making class - it's nice to be able to understand how and why adjustments are made.  My normal method is to break out the FFRP and use those adjustments to my pattern pieces.

Very predictably, I also learned that I wear the wrong bra size (THAT is such a cliche').  With all the bodice measurements - it was very nice to have a third party measure me (other than J. (do you trust your partner to measure you accurately?)).  Well, he had good intentions; he's very helpful marking hems and finding buttons.  Did I mention that he wouldn't mind a full wardrobe made by me?  Something to think about.

Next up:  two book reviews - one new - one a bit older (I mean, vintage).

Sojo Shorts

Dear readers!

My sewing mojo ("sojo") continues. . . . I finally finished my Kwik Sew shorts this weekend!  I lost one of the buttons for the final finish but luckily J. found it vacuuming on Monday morning!  I present to you Kwik Sew 3854 View B:

 Here is a view of the waistband - it's a bit high but I lowered it an inch as an alternation:

Other changes:  Took out at least 5/8 inch out of both sides (and I think I can take the buttons over a half of an inch).  I always seem to make my clothes slightly too loose!  Do you?

The obligatory booty shot:

My other alterations include I carved out the crotch seam deeper in the back of the short - J. Stern suggests this in her jean tutorials - and she states that jean designers do the same - I always wondered why my RTW jeans fit so well.   By the way, her website is JSterns Designs.  Her jeans tutorials start around April 2009 and go to Fall 2010.

Although I don't show it the insides have a clean serged finish, and I lined the pockets with red/white butterfly fabric.

Here's the package view:

I don't love this material - I picked it up on my travels for 1.99 a yard at Joann's in Brandon, Florida.  I made a muslin for these shorts and consider this to be a second muslin before cutting into some expensive technical fabric for hiking - I love the shorts and plan to make another pair.  No zippers!! Gotta love it.  I am going to Newport to teach a class and plan to take these (but not to teach in:)).  More for clam chowder after class.

This is not my style Icon (preppy Andy from The Office in his red pants):

I think my style is more laid-back skateboarder meets rock chick meets mad men styling meets backcountry hiker.  Ok, whatever that is, right?  How do you define your style?

Mojo is back!

Finally dear readers,

I embarked upon some irresponsible serging and I am happy to report my mojo is back with New Look 6939.  I started late this afternoon and wore the top on my way to sushi -

The New Look top runs very large.  I have had it cut out for about 8 weeks.
I actually ran out of fabric cutting it out and added some white jersey for an additional flounce.  I cut a 16 (38 chest) and have linebacker shoulders.  Yet, I didn't fit it - merely started serging!  My bad - it hangs off one shoulder.  I bought the fabric - a jersey knit from Mood.

Here it is on the dressform:

I ran out of flounce fabric - so I picked some white jersey knit and I think it adds some interest:

At sushi:

Would I make this again?  Perhaps - it's super easy - it's not form fitting at all (just like the picture) - but I would cut a 10 I believe to ensure a better yoke fit.  Again, I wanted to get my mojo back.  Here is a picture of the pattern below:

It's wearable with a tank underneath - but this pattern has quite a bit of ease!

One question for readers:  do you press your knits as you go along?  I did the yoke (I can tell that made a difference) but couldn't tell the difference for any seams (and I serged this).

Next up:  Shorts - and some alterations and I'll be caught up on past due projects!!

Projects merely waiting for a needle. . .

Dear readers,

You're probably asking yourself is this blogger ever post about completed projects ever again!  Answer:  I hope so!  I am at home (not traveling for work) for the next six weeks.

Here are my projects cut out (one for muslin and one in fashion fabric) and ready for the machine and/or needle - I just haven't had time to set up my machines, get out my supplies and complete them!  Darn it!

Kwik Sew shorts (I'm dying to finish these):

I intend to make View B with this fabric below (I don't love the fabric but for summer - it's a good test fabric. . . .) I am making a muslin so that I can craft the "perfect shorts."

Fun tunic:

View A, with this fabric:

I literally am sick of seeing these projects laying around, unfinished, glaring at me to finish them.   I especially want to make the shorts - after the red fabric, if I like them I have some high-tech fabric for hiking I want to use that I scored when I visited Seattle Fabrics.

Pam

Stylish Blogger Award (and what I've been up to!)

Dear Readers,

Why haven't I posted?  Well, I've gotten a promotion and we're down one person.  As a result, I have been traveling a heck of a lot more (for example, I was in Florida and DC the last two and a half weeks!).  That, and the fact that I don't have a sewing room permanently set up has slowed my progress considerably!  I do have two projects cut out and waiting to come together. . . (I'll show on my next post)! BTW, I actually wrote this post before my recent travels and am JUST now posting it (took some time for the links below).

I do become free from teaching and traveling this summer - so hopefully, I can spend the summer sewing, sewing, and sewing, among other relaxing activities. 

At the beginning of the year, the wonderful Sue from www.sew-misunderstood.blogspot.com nominated me for the stylish blogger award.  She's a fantastic home seamstress (who's quite the producer of beautiful and funky items), and a great singer and rocker.  The conditions of this award are:


1)Thank and link back to the person who awarded you this award.
2)Share 7 things about yourself
3)Award 10 recently discovered great bloggers.
4)Contact these bloggers and tell them about the award


I am just now finally getting around to it - here we go:

(1) I've picked up sewing as a hobby and I can see continuing it for life - I'm thrilled with my choice!  I lean toward sports  - who knew that I would fall in love with sewing.  I did not sew as a child or teen.  I did some quilting and rather easy (but unfitted) garment sewing in the mid-nineties (pre-internet).

(2)  I've always wanted to learn guitar (but have never had the time to take "lessons.")  I live with a musician, have easy access to lessons, yet, have never taken them - talk about slacking.

(3)  I am a fourth generation Floridian living in the Los Angeles area (and I do have some really wonderful Florida cracker cousins (who I hope never read this entry!) that live in inland Florida).  I love the area I live in - so much creativity, wonderful weather and geography and plenty of adventures to be had.

(4)  I dislike immensely when people try to categorize everyone in a box.  Two weeks ago, my mother's gardener (my age) approaches me and says, "I hear you a career woman."  And, I am thinking, "really, you had to say that, really?"  I am not a "career woman."  I am merely a woman who has a career.   Thank you.

(5)  I am petrified of rattlesnakes (yes, I live in the west). I have had encounters.  I'll leave it at that.  Seriously, petrified.    Sharks, no problems.  Spiders, don't love um but ok.  Snakes, no way, I am out.

(6)  I wish I was born in this generation with the internet.  I would have loved the access to information.  I know many vintage bloggers feel they wish they could have been born in the 40s, 50s, etc.  Not me.  Right now would be fine with me!

(7)  I was one of the first children bussed an hour across town in Orlando for desegregation.  I went to an all-minority school, in a lower economic neighborhood - with very good results.  I think today many parents wouldn't send their children an hour on the bus to support desegregation, despite how socially responsible they are.

10 recently discovered great bloggers (I do list SOME of my favorite bloggers, although perhaps not *recently* discovered), in no particular order:

(1)  Eugenia (really I am just waiting for her to do a post about the Royal wedding, since she lives "across the pond.") from Eugenia's (fabulous) world of sewing.
(2)  Sister from Living La Vida Loca.
(3)  Katie from Kadididdlehopper.
(4) Lindsay from Lindsay T sews.
(5) Amanda from Amanda's Adventures in Sewing.
(6) Christina from Assorted Notions. (Welcome Back!!)
(7) Erika B from DIY Style.
(8)  Patty from The Snug Bug.
(9) Peter from Male Pattern Boldness.
(10) Dawn from Two on, Two off.
(11) Kay from The Sewing Lawyer.
and finally, the missing in action mistress of the sarcastic skeptic:
(12) Elaine, from The Selfish Seamstress.

Have a great Saturday!

Glad to be finally back blogging, Pam