Vogue 8667 (Finally!) and Celebratory Libations

Hello dear readers!

Finally, I've finished Vogue 8667, pictured below.  It's been quite the journey!

Finally, I might add.  I started this project at the same time as I was taking "Intro to Pattern-Making."  Which was brilliant.  I started out making the dress pattern initially with the bodice pictured here, in a Hawaiian Cotton Print.  

Several problems emerged, when I sewed two muslins to check the fit. 

First, the cotton has no drape for the collar piece.   And I actually didn't have enough fabric for the full skirt (of course!!).  So, based on Gertie's wonderful blogging, she gave me idea to use a double knit - a wonderfully soft fabric that I bought for 8.00 a yard from Michael Levine - I had more than enough fabric (the bolts were huge).   So, I put off the Hawaiian fabric (I am finishing this weekend). 

However, do you think I should face the Hawaiian bodice?  I am tempted to use bias binding (same color) but J. thinks that has a tendency to look homemade.   Your opinions are helpful. 

I also decided to initially not make the sleeves since the sleeve fitting was complex.   I have rather large biceps.  However, the double knit gave me some confidence so I made the sleeve alteration - based on the advice from the book, Fit for Real People.  

I have a 9" bust to bust point - which I increased by 1" from the pattern.  In addition, my bust points were 1" below overall the curve indicated by the pattern.  I will details these alterations later this weekend with pictures.  It was actually very hard for me to get a good fit with the princess seams, since my shape differed quite a bit from the pattern cut.   The double knit was quite forgiving, although since it was not exactly the same as the cotton muslins - I had several differences in the final result.  The bust should not have been altered horizontally, but the overall curve move worked out well.  

Even though I didn't need to - I handpicked the zipper, above,  (thanks Sewaholic (great tutorial)).  I also admired Gertie's and Susan Khalje's tutorials and lessons, respectively, which gave me the ideas to do this type of couture technique.  I finished the seams with my serger, even though with double knit one is not required to do - I think it looked more professional.  

I also added the bow at the waist to hide some wonky seams (I almost ordered a custom belt). If anyone has any ideas on how to sew very straight seams across the waist on a princess cut garment - please let me know your tips - I had big problems.  I am going to go back and reset the bow, to tell the truth - I hurried to finish this dress and have worn it three times since finishing it Wednesday evening.  

End result, I love it.  I have to finish the cotton Hawaiian version, but I am probably not going to use the full skirt.  I now have a skirt "block" from my Intro to Pattern-Making - and I'm going to use that to attach a straight skirt like the alternate view suggested in the pattern. 

Pattern review Here!.  This pattern took a ton of alterations, and initially, I thought the skirt would look wonky, but I rather like it.

On a personal note, I've been on pins and needles since Nov. 1 - but found out last night I passed the Cal. Bar on my first try! Hurray!   Now, I am going to nurse my headache from the celebratory libations!