Vogue 8667 - Vintage-Inspired Modern Dress

Hello Dear Readers,

I hope this first of November finds you all well.  As for me - as yesterday's post discussed - my sewing mojo is back - and NO travel for me this month:)

I have just completed a muslin for Vogue 8667 - a modern dress with a vintage twist.  I am making the sleeveless dress in beige on the model shown.

Pictured are the bodice and full muslins for this dress - and whew!  I have quite a few alterations to complete!  I also wanted to make the blue version shown above, but the sleeves would have taken two + alterations to fit my  rather full upper arm - so out they go!  Plus, I plan to wear this dress in Hawaii with some fabric I picked up my last work trip there - so sleeveless does make more sense.

I have completed the bodice muslin shown above.  My alterations (upon trying it on) are the bustpoints must be moved down 1" each.  This bodice has princess sleeves mind you.  In addition, I must widen the bust points one inch to the side for each.  I am also adding 1 inch to the bodice - to move my waist seam downward.  Finally, I am adding 1/4" on the seam allowance for the sides.

I haven't yet sewn princess seams, so I looked up and cross-referenced how to do so in Fit for Real People, by Pati Palmer and Marta Alto.  The authors give a detailed description on how to move the bust points for princess seams (the technique in short involved cutting and moving the pattern downward at the bust-point on the front pattern piece and side pattern pieces).  Although after thinking about this (and dreaming about it!)  -  I may try adding 1" to the shoulder seam if it doesn't throw out the proportion for the armholes.

I also reviewed the description on how to widen the sleeve for the upper arm, and although the technique is excellent - I think I prefer the description and additional technique for a small adjustment detailed in Fast Fit, Sandra Betzina.  Both technique call for cutting and widening the arm pattern pieces.

Finally, the skirt is done and I need to do a better job on the pleating.

After thinking about this - I plan to cut another bodice muslin and check the fit once more before cutting my fashion fabric.

Any tips on fitting (or sewing) princess seams are appreciated!