Tent in Living Room, also known as Why I have NOT finished my Second Vogue Dress!

I want to finish before the New Year!!   But, you can see I've been up to no good with the time off :)

Dare I mention that I've been mesmorized by the snow on the mountains surrounding Los Angeles  -  I seemingly have contracted what is known in these parts as "snow fever."  Must go . . . see snow. . . 

Intermediate? Maybe, but Burda Newbie

Hello Readers,

I guess everyone is preparing for the New Year - I've still had trouble finding time for sewing.  I changed my rating on Pattern Review to Intermediate, one step up from Advanced Beginner.    I'm now doubting that.  I've joined the Burda Pants Sew-Along from The Cupcake Goddess.  However, it has been an uphill slope:

First, what have I signed up for?

Second, I finally used highlighter to mark the pieces, but realized there is a pattern piece number 2 black, number 2 yellow, number 2 green. Oops.  Mine are pieces 1 - 5 black.  I then used a black sharpie (not the recommended method to show the correct pieces). 

This is a tall pattern, hurray!  Perfect, seemingly, for me.  And I plan to trace it out  -  any tips from anyone? I've never cut out a Burda.  According to the sew along - we're using 1" seam allowances generally and 5/8 SA for the crotch seam. . .  again, any tips are appreciated. . . 

Finally, I'm finishing up my second Vogue dress and I wanted to post what I did to alter the pattern for the lower bust (on princess seams). On my initial muslin - it appeared the bust point was too high by just over an inch.

I used the method from FFRP (Fit for Real People) - and it worked liked a charm.  Initially I tried to "cheat" and lengthen the shoulder seam (not good).   The FFRP method resulted in an accurate and precise bustline on the princess seamed bodice.

Here I cut out and moved down the bodice point. I lowered it the corresponding distance (just over 1") and drew in the new seamlines.

Accordingly, I did the same below on the corresponding piece.

What I don't show is that I actually had to alter the horizontal bustpoint to give more room from bust point to bust point.  I was wider by 2".   I don't have pictures to show that adjustment however, but I did so by adding to the center princess seam pieces and subtracting from the side center seam pieces.

I hope to post the dress before this Holiday is over!! But with the way things are going I give that prediction a 50/50...

Happy Holidays!

Happy Holidays to all!  I am thankful for many blessings in my life, for all the talented home sewers blogging and for being able to write this blog.

I haven't been posting as I've been so busy (both traveling for work and at home) -  but I am gearing back up in January - I'm taking Kenneth King's Clone Your Favorite Garment class on Pattern Review (starting January 10) and I am doing a Burda Pants Sew-Along from The Cupcake Goddess.

By the way, I did buy a ham and sew roll from The Cupcake Goddess and they are so much fun - she actually wrapped them in old patterns for mailing.  Adorable (and the smell of newly cut sawdust is to die for).

By the way, I have to give a shout out to the productive sewing blogger -
Katie's Blog.  Her blog provides me with countless tips.  Check out her blog - I highly recommend it.

A few months ago I found what I thought was a Janome-sponsored blog that gave all kinds of tips (for example, home-sewn flowers for decoration on garments) - but I've lost the bookmark!  If anyone knows of this site - please let me know!  UPDATE 12/25:  I found it - it's Janome's Sew 4 Home website - the tattered flowers I was looking for can be found there - here's an example below - I'm going to make some of these and add to my Vogue Hawaiian Dress (if I can get off the couch today!).

Naked Machines Finally Covered!

Dear Readers,

Despite the shocking title, I haven't finished my second version of my dress  - I was having trouble making choices.  Before I get to that - this is what I've been up to this Holiday.

Before:  Nude machines -

After:  Fully, and fashionable dressed (covered) machines - 

I used Simplicity 2679 (purchased for $1.00) at Joann's Fabric. 

I also measured the machines (the Singer Featherweight and the Serger) and tailored the patterns slightly.  The Janome (with the vespa fabric) sewing machine cover was one of my first projects 14 months ago.  In all three projects,  I used cording instead of binding to bind.  Wow!  The cording (or piping) foot on my serger was fantastic.  I love feet - I'm going to do a separate post on this.  I also have fallen in love with the serger - I love it and am glad I own it.  I never thought I would own a serger. 

I bought the two new fabrics above  -  they are Japanese fabric 30 percent off from Momen+ in Torrance -  on Black Friday.   You know I'm obsessed with Japanese Fabrics.

I also quickly sewed two doggie bed that are for their crates  - easy-peasy - measure, cut and sew.  I cut up an old down-alternative comforter (washable) for the insides. 

This is one of two:

And, again, the second in the same fabric (the robots mats were bought separately - we're all "robot-crazy" (also known as roboty) in our house).  

Finally, with regard to the Second Vogue 8667 dress - I think I'm going to use a separate fabric for the skirt (so that it's not a completely Hawaiian dress and may be worn more frequently).  I must give a shout out to Eugenia's Blog.  She sewed at least 2 -  two-tone dresses - and most recently did a gorgeous rendition of Vogue 8667.  I've decided to line the cotton top (instead of facing or bias binding) with a cotton voile and use a double knit for the skirt.  

Well, off to sew! Have a great week. 

Happy Thanksgiving (US) & Happy progressing to the end the week (everyone one)

Dear readers,

If you've been progressing toward the end of the week (Congrats!) the weekend is almost here!

 In the US, we're celebrating Thanksgiving, where the desire to get the perfect turkey and meal, spending time with relatives you may or may not desire to see, and planning crazy shopping the day after.  And, some people chose to give thanks for their lives (we do!).

Yesterday, I went to the paragon of booksellers, and bought three sewing magazines.  One serves as an excellent reference and I learned a couple of  techniques.  The magazine is Teach yourself to Sew by Threads magazine.

Although I am familiar with most of the "getting started" techniques - I have learned a few things (and I'm only 1/3 of the way through).

For example, there are tools to help your presser foot stay level over thick seams!  And, the best way to get sharp points on a collar or tight angle is to make a box type of stitch during the seam instead of a point. . . I never had problems with that but good to know!  I recommend it as a fun reference with lots of good tips.

Finally, on my Kindle 3, thanks dad!, I downloaded Pat Conroy's My Reading Life (which is a love story to writers and readers, really).

He writes, "As an American liberal with impeccable credentials, I would like to say that Political Correctness is going to kill American liberalism if not fought to the death by people like me for the dangers it represents to free speech, to the exchange of ideas, to openheartedness, or the spirit of art itself.  Political correctness has stranglehold on academia, on feminism, and on the media. It is a form of both madness and maggotry, and has already silenced the voices of writers . . . across the land."


I find this so true, even on a minor level, like this sewing blog.  I won't address the larger first amendment issues in America, but I will say that I do write my blog in fear of offending others (not to be confused with tolerance, though).  I am careful to monitor the voice and tone of my blog - really, I want to promote and enjoy home sewing - and encourage others to try (and learn from the legion of experts out there).  I want my blog to be accessible.  And maybe, that is the way of it for writing that is trying to accomplish a goal such as this.   Readers, do you find your voices chilled by political correctness?

Just a few things to think about (and feel free to respond!) - Pat Conroy's book is an easy read if you haven't had the chance yet. . .

Thank you Vogue Patterns!

Wow!  I need to buy a lotto ticket - stat!  First, I pass the bar (luckily) - then my father send me the new kindle (lucky, again!), and then wonderful Kathy Marrone comments to tell me that my last post is featured on the Vogue Patterns facebook page and that they like it very much. (Very shocking!)

I still feel pretty lucky - I consider myself to still be an advanced beginner.  Out of the blue!  If you are on facebook here is the LINK.  I wasn't aware of the FB page - and they post frequently - on a variety of sewing-related issues.  Their latest post indicates that they are giving away fabric (from their stash) on Mondays. 

Now, I feel dedicated to doing a better job on my Hawaiian dress - all part of my guilt at being mentioned and featured on their link.  Well, dare to dream, I say!

BTW, I think this counts for a few minutes of my fame quotient. 

Vogue 8667 (Finally!) and Celebratory Libations

Hello dear readers!

Finally, I've finished Vogue 8667, pictured below.  It's been quite the journey!

Finally, I might add.  I started this project at the same time as I was taking "Intro to Pattern-Making."  Which was brilliant.  I started out making the dress pattern initially with the bodice pictured here, in a Hawaiian Cotton Print.  

Several problems emerged, when I sewed two muslins to check the fit. 

First, the cotton has no drape for the collar piece.   And I actually didn't have enough fabric for the full skirt (of course!!).  So, based on Gertie's wonderful blogging, she gave me idea to use a double knit - a wonderfully soft fabric that I bought for 8.00 a yard from Michael Levine - I had more than enough fabric (the bolts were huge).   So, I put off the Hawaiian fabric (I am finishing this weekend). 

However, do you think I should face the Hawaiian bodice?  I am tempted to use bias binding (same color) but J. thinks that has a tendency to look homemade.   Your opinions are helpful. 

I also decided to initially not make the sleeves since the sleeve fitting was complex.   I have rather large biceps.  However, the double knit gave me some confidence so I made the sleeve alteration - based on the advice from the book, Fit for Real People.  

I have a 9" bust to bust point - which I increased by 1" from the pattern.  In addition, my bust points were 1" below overall the curve indicated by the pattern.  I will details these alterations later this weekend with pictures.  It was actually very hard for me to get a good fit with the princess seams, since my shape differed quite a bit from the pattern cut.   The double knit was quite forgiving, although since it was not exactly the same as the cotton muslins - I had several differences in the final result.  The bust should not have been altered horizontally, but the overall curve move worked out well.  

Even though I didn't need to - I handpicked the zipper, above,  (thanks Sewaholic (great tutorial)).  I also admired Gertie's and Susan Khalje's tutorials and lessons, respectively, which gave me the ideas to do this type of couture technique.  I finished the seams with my serger, even though with double knit one is not required to do - I think it looked more professional.  

I also added the bow at the waist to hide some wonky seams (I almost ordered a custom belt). If anyone has any ideas on how to sew very straight seams across the waist on a princess cut garment - please let me know your tips - I had big problems.  I am going to go back and reset the bow, to tell the truth - I hurried to finish this dress and have worn it three times since finishing it Wednesday evening.  

End result, I love it.  I have to finish the cotton Hawaiian version, but I am probably not going to use the full skirt.  I now have a skirt "block" from my Intro to Pattern-Making - and I'm going to use that to attach a straight skirt like the alternate view suggested in the pattern. 

Pattern review Here!.  This pattern took a ton of alterations, and initially, I thought the skirt would look wonky, but I rather like it.

On a personal note, I've been on pins and needles since Nov. 1 - but found out last night I passed the Cal. Bar on my first try! Hurray!   Now, I am going to nurse my headache from the celebratory libations!