Monday, September 5, 2011

Completed: First Pair of Jeans, JStern 0037 (or Self-Stitched Jeans, the LA Way)

Dear readers!

Completed.  My first pair of jeans, Jennifer Stern Designs No. 0037.

Well, almost - I didn't put the jeans button fly, pocket buttons or the rivets  on (yet). 

MNBarb from Pattern Review (message board discussion here) probably provided one of the best link for jeans buttons - I'm going to order them from this ebay seller - Dimebuttons - link is Here.  Apparently, since LA is the hub (reputedly 80% of the high end jeans are designed here) - I should be able to buy some fantastic supplies; I need to hunt some down stat!

For more information on the high ends jeans manufacturing in Los Angeles - check out this LA Times Article, "Premium Jeans the Los Angeles Way."   One of the key aspects of this business is that LA manufacturers can take orders as late as 2:00 pm and have them out by 5:00 pm.  Wow!  According to research, wholesale denim (high end) can cost anywhere from 12.00 a yard to 25.00 a yard.  My denim was 6.00 a yard:)  I am going to check out sources for us readers, my recollection is that Mood has some good denim.  

Above is a close up - I do need to work on my execution skills.  I made these in 6.00 dark denim for a boot cut.  I lost 10 pounds since my muslin fittting so instead of 1/2" inseams, outseams and crotch curve - I cut 3/4".  Which worked out well and is still a bit loose (although you cannot tell from the pictures).  I only felled the back crotch curve and the yoke (and do need to work on those skills).  Also I pulled out the wonder tape at the crotch and   redid that topstitching so until I wash them they appear a little gunky.  By the way the fly is absolutely flat - but without a button it's pulling a little with belt.

On the others I used a denim double needle to simulate the felling.  However, I don't recommend the use of the denim double needle.  I made a mistake and in pulling up the stitches cut a hole in the inseam - I took up the right leg 1/4" and am experience some pulling (not evident in the pictures) on that side but I can live with that.  These jeans need a good wash - so I can get off all the tiny threads!

I am particularly pleased with the back - I place the decoratively stitched pockets once the jeans were assembled (the directions called for them to be done before the inseams and outseams are complete) - and placed the pockets 1 down near the middle of the back and sloped it down to 1 1/4".  On the I also slated the pockets starting from 1" from the back middle crotch curve to 1 1/2" as to go down.

Another essential tool is an awl which sewing.  Really critical.  I am working and made some great progress on my topstitching!  I am definitely making these again and will use a contrast thread most probably next time - and higher end denim (and maybe corduroy).  I'd also like to make a wide leg version ala Hudson Gwen jeans pictured here.

I have written a Pattern Review here for more detailed information.

The end.

P.S.  After reviewing the pictures - I am definitely going to switch from a YKK Jeans Zipper 3.5" to a 5".

14 comments:

  1. Those look amazing!!! I love the detailing, especially the red topstitching on the pocket. These are so fabulous. I need to make more jeans...

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  2. Thanks! I love them and can't wait to get the rivets and buttons in!

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  3. Fab looking jeans on you! Very flattering fit and style!

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  4. Great job! If you find out sources for premium denim and notions in the L.A. area, please share!

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  5. Thanks!!!

    R. - I will - A-1 Pleating has gone out of business so I am going to investigate!!

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  6. You are braver than me, since I'm terrified of making jeans and trousers. These turned out great though, and I love the back pocket details!

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  7. Thanks H! I said I've never make my own since I have no problem with RTW - but I did and love it - they fit even better (from a comfort perspective) than RTW!

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  8. Holy moly, I missed a lot in just a few days! You've been so productive! They look great and I LOVE the pockets! Congrats on getting them done - isn't it a great feeling?

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  9. Thanks! I finally got my SewJO - If your remember, I was dug under in work for the past nine months! Yes, I was so happy that I finished them this morning - my SEWJO is back and I'm ready to make another pair!!

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  10. they look fabu! I think making them out of cheap fabric to start with is a smart idea!

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  11. Wow - your jeans look amazing on you. I know from my own experience how difficult jeans are to make - you have done an amazing job - you must be feeling incredibly pleased with these! I am in awe of your jeans knowledge - I think you should be setting up your own designer jeans label - Pammie Jeans!

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  12. Thanks Sue and Eugenia! I love them - I can't wait to make them again! Yes, I'm so happy - getting the fit right first gave me confidence to jump in - although I do need to work on my execution skills!

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