Vintage U.S. Navy Uniforms Part I

Dear readers,

You may or may not remember me mentioning this - but I'm a retired Commander in the Navy.   A bit shocking, I know.  As such, I'm a bit obsessed with the uniforms and the changes that occurred specifically to women's uniforms.  And, I am surprised at the decrease in quality between the current uniforms (both design, fit and sometimes, construction) as compared to the uniforms women wore in the WWII era.  These are two examples of women's uniforms in seersucker from that era.  Beautifully tailored.

According to the U.S. Navy historical website:

Women officer uniforms were upgraded during the war years. There had been little precedent for women’s wear in the Navy since World War I; therefore a panel of civilian experts in the design and fashion field was called upon to create a set of uniforms which when devoid of buttons and braid would correspond to a smart businesswoman’s suit. Their efforts resulted in the present single breasted blues and whites worn by women naval officers. The Nurse’s hat continued as a visorless duplicate of the males during this period and the Nurses retained a double breasted blue jacket. (It is interesting to note, however, that women’s regulations were published separately from their male counterparts. It was considered that the great influx of women into the service was only a wartime oddity and would recede when hostilities ceased.)

Women’s uniforms were the same for officer, chief, and other enlisted, differing only in rank identification. Work uniforms included a coverall and slacks for use when the skirt was inappropriate. 

Look at the picture below - wonderful piping detail and tailored sleeves.

You can see the princess cut in the back as well - very unusual in uniforms today.

A closer picture of the seeksucker and princess seams.

Beautiful collar and princess seaming.

Again - look at the contouring of the princess seam - you can see the serging on the inside.  This was apparently a working uniform rather than a dress uniform.

Beautiful piping for work uniform.

Below is a a more dress suit type of uniform - again, seersucker.  Look at the full skirt - unusual for today.

Beautiful pockets and again, princess seams.

Here was the display (in Pensacola)

A historical man's uniform below:

A pilot/bomber cover (hat) below:

Here is the flight suit - an older version from WWI.

And, some frivolity.  The men's mess dress with "hidden" Hawaiian sleeves.  Of course, this isn't vintage.   Taken from the uniform shop in Pearl Harbor.

I'd like to make a reproduction seersucker suit - it is on my "to do" list.  I have a Brooks Brothers modern suit - but it is not at all close to the tailored construction of the 50s.  

More on Navy women's uniforms will continue in future posts!

XOXO, P.

Yoga Socks - and back! (From my travels)

Dear readers,

Sorry about the long absence.  I've been traveling for work - which makes sewing very difficult - not to mention blogging.  I did complete, however, some yoga socks.  And, I've tried them out in Pilates on the Tower/Cadillac - and I can report they are effective!

Yes, I was photobombed as normal.  I used sock yarn - and it took quite some time to finish!  I used tiny needles size 1 - 2.25.

The pattern was free - here is the link for Patron Yoga Sock #153- but you will have to join the Patron Site to view the pattern, I believe.

And, my link to my ravelry site and project information:  PammieandthePs Ravelry Page.

Again, more posts are forthcoming - I'm home for awhile!  Hurray.  I've been doing mending since arriving home on Friday, and loving it.   Note, I bought the new Threads while delayed at the SFO airport on Thursday (amazing they carried it at Hudson News), and really soaked every word up.

XOXO, P.

St. Paddy's Day Tule Cowl (Finally!)

Dear readers, 

       I finally finished this cowl in Hawaii - it took me quite a bit of time to finish and isn't my best work - but I'm glad it's finally done!  I wore it out last night and am wearing it today (while making my Corned Beef and Cabbage). . . .

 A close up - not completely perfect:

 By the way, a year has gone by and I haven't made this coat dress yet, below.  It's on my wishlist.

Kate Middleton, Duchess of Cambridge, below, still looks fab in the dress with the alternations for her condition.  I love how the English royalty tend to keep their best pieces and merely alter the garments.  It is quite noticeable in some pictures.

I am however, still working on my day dress.  This weekend,  I made a toile and it needed some minor alternations.   So, hopefully today I plan to cut out the fashion fabric to finish before Thursday - for another St. Paddy's Day celebration (and I'm making more corned beef and cabbage!).

Again, this is the material - I think will look fantastic with the cowl.

Yes, apparently I am obsessed with green!

Happy St. Paddy's Day!

P.

St. Patrick's Day Cowl - in Progress.

Dear readers,

I'm so close to finishing this St. Patrick's Day inspired cowl.  I took the class in January - and it has been literally dragging on.  The yarn is fantastic - Merino, Silk, and Cashmere.  The yarn is scrumptious in aran commercial moss.  The pattern is  Tule Fog Cowl by Karinknits Designs on Ravelry.

I wanted something Celtic but yet modern.  So, I will try to finish this in the next few days. .

Pixie photobombing my project (as usual!).

She's love this yarn . . . . a bit too much - the second skein, below.

Ugg!! Can I never finish this project!!!

Have your knitted projects ever driven you mad?

P.

Anise Sew-Along: Delayed until further notice

Dear readers,
I originally planned to join the Colette Anise Sew-Along!

I fell in love with Sarai's version. 

So, I planned to make my own version as well with the green wool below.

Oops - only 2.5 yards rather than the 4.5 3 and 3/8 yards the pattern calls for (ed.  oops!).

So, this project is (sadly) delayed until I find a fabric I'm equally in love with.  I am going to make a flowy skirt with the green wool from a self drafted pattern.

Has this ever happened to you?   True, I normally buy 2.5 yards when I'm out and about - I never think about 4 - 8 yards.  I guess I need an attitude adjustment while fabric shopping and stashing.

P.

Decades of Style - Pattern adjustment

Dear readers,

I have begun my entry to the world of Decades of Style patterns.  This is the pattern I am making - with princess seams -

 - the 1944 House dress.  I love princess seams and my sloper (or basic bodice) is perfect for that.  So, I am taking the original pattern (traced) and marking, what I hope, are the correct pattern adjustments.  The original pattern is very close to my sloper - very unusual.

Below is the original fashion fabric - I hope to make it up before St. Patrick's Day.  It is a linen and I plan to underline with batiste.  It's an expensive fabric so I am making a toile or muslin before cutting (so unlike me!)

As you can see the alterations are in green.  WARNING:  My alterations are a swag - measured from the slopers -  *real* pattern making and adjustment involved detailed measurements and math.  So, I am using the "swag" method - we'll see how it shapes up!  One note is that I did "rotate" the dart to the side to match the pattern.

The back alteration below is the largest - I have a very broad back.  I also have asymmetrical shoulders  -  but because of the ease I am making both sides with the same sloper alternations (laziness!).

 I have no idea what to do with the sleeve alterations - the sleeve (in tracing paper) is nothing close to my sloper (behind, on oaktag).  So, this is part of the reason I'm making a muslin. . .

Some of my pattern making tools.

 Colored markers are key.

Slopers taking a rest on the piano.

Next up is the muslin. . . more to follow!
P.

Sewing Blogger's Map

Dear readers,

I'm probably the last person to pin on this - but I love it - how fantastic!! Thanks to Sister at Dr. Fun Living La Vida Loca:) And Katie, MD at Katiekadiddllehopper for linking to this. And, a big thanks toAnother Sewing Scientist for this fantastic creation.

View Map the Sewintists in a larger map

If you haven't pinned yet - this will kill half your day browsing other pins! Highly recommended. P.