Saturday, November 20, 2010

Vogue 8667 (Finally!) and Celebratory Libations

Hello dear readers!

Finally, I've finished Vogue 8667, pictured below.  It's been quite the journey!


Finally, I might add.  I started this project at the same time as I was taking "Intro to Pattern-Making."  Which was brilliant.  I started out making the dress pattern initially with the bodice pictured here, in a Hawaiian Cotton Print.  
Several problems emerged, when I sewed two muslins to check the fit. 
First, the cotton has no drape for the collar piece.   And I actually didn't have enough fabric for the full skirt (of course!!).  So, based on Gertie's wonderful blogging, she gave me idea to use a double knit - a wonderfully soft fabric that I bought for 8.00 a yard from Michael Levine - I had more than enough fabric (the bolts were huge).   So, I put off the Hawaiian fabric (I am finishing this weekend). 

However, do you think I should face the Hawaiian bodice?  I am tempted to use bias binding (same color) but J. thinks that has a tendency to look homemade.   Your opinions are helpful. 
I also decided to initially not make the sleeves since the sleeve fitting was complex.   I have rather large biceps.  However, the double knit gave me some confidence so I made the sleeve alteration - based on the advice from the book, Fit for Real People.  

I have a 9" bust to bust point - which I increased by 1" from the pattern.  In addition, my bust points were 1" below overall the curve indicated by the pattern.  I will details these alterations later this weekend with pictures.  It was actually very hard for me to get a good fit with the princess seams, since my shape differed quite a bit from the pattern cut.   The double knit was quite forgiving, although since it was not exactly the same as the cotton muslins - I had several differences in the final result.  The bust should not have been altered horizontally, but the overall curve move worked out well.  


Even though I didn't need to - I handpicked the zipper, above,  (thanks Sewaholic (great tutorial)).  I also admired Gertie's and Susan Khalje's tutorials and lessons, respectively, which gave me the ideas to do this type of couture technique.  I finished the seams with my serger, even though with double knit one is not required to do - I think it looked more professional.  


I also added the bow at the waist to hide some wonky seams (I almost ordered a custom belt). If anyone has any ideas on how to sew very straight seams across the waist on a princess cut garment - please let me know your tips - I had big problems.  I am going to go back and reset the bow, to tell the truth - I hurried to finish this dress and have worn it three times since finishing it Wednesday evening.  

End result, I love it.  I have to finish the cotton Hawaiian version, but I am probably not going to use the full skirt.  I now have a skirt "block" from my Intro to Pattern-Making - and I'm going to use that to attach a straight skirt like the alternate view suggested in the pattern. 



Pattern review Here!.  This pattern took a ton of alterations, and initially, I thought the skirt would look wonky, but I rather like it.

On a personal note, I've been on pins and needles since Nov. 1 - but found out last night I passed the Cal. Bar on my first try! Hurray!   Now, I am going to nurse my headache from the celebratory libations!



19 comments:

  1. It looks great!! The fit is very nice and that is a lovely color on you. So funny that your teacher finds bias bindings homemade - I feel that way about facings!! You almost never see them in RTW.

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  2. Love IT!... the colors looks great on you.

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  4. Oops... too many typo's in the last comment... Just wanted to say your dress turned out gorgeous. And I agree with Kid, MD who says bindings do NOT look homemade ... I see them in very upscale garments. And I can't figure why patterns do facings so much. I frequently replace them with another method (binding or simply turning under if the fabric warrants). I love the front details and the sleeve modification.

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  5. Thanks everyone for the kind words! Anita and Katie - I have to agree - I think I'm going to go ahead and do the bias facing (at least for the neck) and perhaps the armholes (although I didn't even think about turning under the fabric - yeah! Perfect for the dress - which is only going to be worn during a work trip in Hawaii during my off time . . .

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  6. Such a beautiful dress! The fit, style, and color are oh so lovely on yuo:)

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  7. Great job! Just wanted to let you know that we liked your post so much that we've posted a link to it from the Vogue Patterns facebook page. Keep up the good work.
    Kathy Marrone

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  8. Thanks V!! I wanted to have a "fun" color - I was tempted to pick a violet - but went, finally with the green!

    Kathy - What an honor!! Thank you so much! I'll try to do better on my next version of this dress - the Hawaiian cotton!!

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  9. Great dress! Congratulations on passing the bar. I'm sure the preparation for it was much more exhausting than making your beautiful dress.

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  10. Fabulous dress! I think making it in a double knit is an excellent idea (personally, I love double knit). The colour is lovely. This style really suits you and the addition of the bow at the waist (even if it was to to hide wonky seams!) is a really lovely touch!

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  11. Your dress looks fabulous! And congratulations on passing the bar exam!

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  12. Thanks! All! Eugenia, I love your two tone - I am thinking of a solid color to add to the Hawaiian top based on your inspiration.

    Thanks for the compliments! Yes, I didn't have to take this exam but did it (and in some ways put my reputation on the line!) and thankfully, I passed! Whew!

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  13. What a great dress! It is similar-- similar color and paired with red shoes. Great minds think alike! :) I love the collar. Good idea on the bow. I actually bought a belt kit to try and make a custom belt for my dress screw up. Thanks for the nice comment on my blog!

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  14. From one sewing lawyer to another, great work and congratulations!!

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  15. Thanks Liza! I know that Gertie uses a belt maker here in California (by mail) who is totally reasonable. . . I've never made a belt . . I have my doubts about my success. .

    Kay - I know - hopefully I can eventually achieve your expertise in the sewing area!! BTW, Tandy leather is just around the corner from my house. . . . Your posts make me want to start a leather project. . .

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  16. What a gorgeous dress - green is my favorite color and you look stunning in it! Congrats on the Bar and also the Vogue shout-out!

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  17. I am in love with that green fabric-- just gorgeous, and you covered up the wonky waist seam very well.

    My mom always calls those coverup "surprise design elements". Like when I accidently cut a hole in the hip of my jewel-blue acetate prom dress as we were working on it. There was no ornamentation planned at all, but I wound up with a tasteful bow on the hip that improved the dress, after all!

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  18. Thanks S. and L! So true! I am making flowers for my next dress at the waist! Due to my figure, I just can't wear shirt dresses successfully but adding features at the waist - really makes the dress pop!! L - I somehow almost cut holes in almost all of my garments - it is maddening.

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