Vogue 8667 (Finally!) and Celebratory Libations

Hello dear readers!

Finally, I've finished Vogue 8667, pictured below.  It's been quite the journey!

Finally, I might add.  I started this project at the same time as I was taking "Intro to Pattern-Making."  Which was brilliant.  I started out making the dress pattern initially with the bodice pictured here, in a Hawaiian Cotton Print.  

Several problems emerged, when I sewed two muslins to check the fit. 

First, the cotton has no drape for the collar piece.   And I actually didn't have enough fabric for the full skirt (of course!!).  So, based on Gertie's wonderful blogging, she gave me idea to use a double knit - a wonderfully soft fabric that I bought for 8.00 a yard from Michael Levine - I had more than enough fabric (the bolts were huge).   So, I put off the Hawaiian fabric (I am finishing this weekend). 

However, do you think I should face the Hawaiian bodice?  I am tempted to use bias binding (same color) but J. thinks that has a tendency to look homemade.   Your opinions are helpful. 

I also decided to initially not make the sleeves since the sleeve fitting was complex.   I have rather large biceps.  However, the double knit gave me some confidence so I made the sleeve alteration - based on the advice from the book, Fit for Real People.  

I have a 9" bust to bust point - which I increased by 1" from the pattern.  In addition, my bust points were 1" below overall the curve indicated by the pattern.  I will details these alterations later this weekend with pictures.  It was actually very hard for me to get a good fit with the princess seams, since my shape differed quite a bit from the pattern cut.   The double knit was quite forgiving, although since it was not exactly the same as the cotton muslins - I had several differences in the final result.  The bust should not have been altered horizontally, but the overall curve move worked out well.  

Even though I didn't need to - I handpicked the zipper, above,  (thanks Sewaholic (great tutorial)).  I also admired Gertie's and Susan Khalje's tutorials and lessons, respectively, which gave me the ideas to do this type of couture technique.  I finished the seams with my serger, even though with double knit one is not required to do - I think it looked more professional.  

I also added the bow at the waist to hide some wonky seams (I almost ordered a custom belt). If anyone has any ideas on how to sew very straight seams across the waist on a princess cut garment - please let me know your tips - I had big problems.  I am going to go back and reset the bow, to tell the truth - I hurried to finish this dress and have worn it three times since finishing it Wednesday evening.  

End result, I love it.  I have to finish the cotton Hawaiian version, but I am probably not going to use the full skirt.  I now have a skirt "block" from my Intro to Pattern-Making - and I'm going to use that to attach a straight skirt like the alternate view suggested in the pattern. 

Pattern review Here!.  This pattern took a ton of alterations, and initially, I thought the skirt would look wonky, but I rather like it.

On a personal note, I've been on pins and needles since Nov. 1 - but found out last night I passed the Cal. Bar on my first try! Hurray!   Now, I am going to nurse my headache from the celebratory libations!

Hey Anthropologie!

Hey Anthro -

I think someone has been reading someone's blog.  Yes, dear readers, as shocking as that might sound to you it's true.  Do you remember my Colette Macaron dress made painstakingly with Japanese Echino fabric!

Ah Ha!

Anthro's fall catalog arrived today in the mail and, lo and behold, I think some company (with a name starting with A.) knocked off my dress. OK, I know it's not a direct copy - but I suppose they have knocked off the idea of doing a vintage type of dress with modern Japanese fabric (the idea of it:)) Sure, their fabric is silk and not cotton/linen . . . suspect, I tell you!  And the name of their dress - "Japonita!"  That nails it in my mind.

As I was knocked off (in my own mind) , I feel completely justified knocking off the offender's circle skirt pictured below:

I am in Class 2 of Intro to Pattern Making tomorrow!  I feel some cloning coming on . . . don't "they" say imitation is the greatest form of flattery?

Decades of Style Patterns

Dear Readers,

Whilst I was taking my class - I did have a chance to shop and here is my bounty - I can't wait to make these up:

Two Decades of Style patterns that I have been waiting to buy for awhile (apparently Decades of Style had a trunk show with all the designs sewn up that I missed two weeks ago (of course).

Decades of Style 1940s House Dress

Decades of Style 1940s New England Dress:

Also, I bought three yards of this cotton lawn, which does have some cross-stretch - it is NOT a liberty print - but does remind me of the type of prints Liberty is famous for.  I was thinking of making Vogue 8667 in this print but after trying on my muslin - I think I will save it for another project. 

I also got this thick canvas Japanese robot print to make a Green Pepper messenger bag for J.  Unfortunately, he doesn't think the material is substantial enough for his books (it is - especially if reinforced) But, hey, I'm not going to argue - so yeah!! I can use this somehow for a project of mine!

Dear readers, if you have sewn Decades of Style patterns - I would love to hear about it!  Tips are appreciated!

Vogue 8667 - Vintage-Inspired Modern Dress

Hello Dear Readers,

I hope this first of November finds you all well.  As for me - as yesterday's post discussed - my sewing mojo is back - and NO travel for me this month:)

I have just completed a muslin for Vogue 8667 - a modern dress with a vintage twist.  I am making the sleeveless dress in beige on the model shown.

Pictured are the bodice and full muslins for this dress - and whew!  I have quite a few alterations to complete!  I also wanted to make the blue version shown above, but the sleeves would have taken two + alterations to fit my  rather full upper arm - so out they go!  Plus, I plan to wear this dress in Hawaii with some fabric I picked up my last work trip there - so sleeveless does make more sense.

I have completed the bodice muslin shown above.  My alterations (upon trying it on) are the bustpoints must be moved down 1" each.  This bodice has princess sleeves mind you.  In addition, I must widen the bust points one inch to the side for each.  I am also adding 1 inch to the bodice - to move my waist seam downward.  Finally, I am adding 1/4" on the seam allowance for the sides.

I haven't yet sewn princess seams, so I looked up and cross-referenced how to do so in Fit for Real People, by Pati Palmer and Marta Alto.  The authors give a detailed description on how to move the bust points for princess seams (the technique in short involved cutting and moving the pattern downward at the bust-point on the front pattern piece and side pattern pieces).  Although after thinking about this (and dreaming about it!)  -  I may try adding 1" to the shoulder seam if it doesn't throw out the proportion for the armholes.

I also reviewed the description on how to widen the sleeve for the upper arm, and although the technique is excellent - I think I prefer the description and additional technique for a small adjustment detailed in Fast Fit, Sandra Betzina.  Both technique call for cutting and widening the arm pattern pieces.

Finally, the skirt is done and I need to do a better job on the pleating.

After thinking about this - I plan to cut another bodice muslin and check the fit once more before cutting my fashion fabric.

Any tips on fitting (or sewing) princess seams are appreciated!

Introduction to Pattern Making (Skirt)

Hello Readers!!  Happy Hallow's Eve:)

On Saturday, I finally took the first class in a series of 3 classes of Introduction to Pattern-Making.  I'm taking the class at Sew LA from owner, Shaerie.

The first three weeks are really, making a sloper for a skirt.  This sloper will function as a flat pattern that will "free me from the confines of commercial patterns."  And, will assist with fitting all future garments - Sounds Great!!

I haven't signed up for the bodice part, and now I  believe it's sold out! Oh Boo!  I may have to wait until next offering or procure private lessons.

Here's what I have learned from the class - I have measured myself completely incorrectly.  I measure myself as Waist 33", Hips 38" - when in reality my waist is 30" and hips 40" (I have been eating a bunch of chocolate:)).  Also, I've learned my hips are 9" from my waist - the standard measurement in commercial patterns - yeah!

We are using a Butterick 5746 (as shown below) basic skirt and working on our muslins now.  As soon as we are done I'll go on a skirt making binge - right now I'm on a dress-making binge (still).

Here's what I have learned about my sewing:

(1)  I am rushing literally everything - I need to slow down and take my time.

(2)  I really need to pay much more detailed attention to grainlines.

(3)  Ok, I do need to make muslins for the majority of my projects.  (As a result of my sewing mojo being jump-started by this class, I made a muslin for Vogue 8667, which I will explain in detail on tomorrow's blog!)

(4)  I really need to trace sewing lines instead of eyeballing them by hand (especially for high value projects).  Yes!  It does make a difference (and modifying these lines requires, dare I say it?, MATH!).

(5)  Ah, the wonders of the two inch clear ruler.  I really need to use my clear flexible ruler in everyday measurements - wow!  I've really been missing out.

(6)  I'm so glad I took that couture hand sewing class in preparation for this class - it's made hand-basting a breeze!

Summary - Great class so far and this is the first in person class I've taken where it was more than a beginning level garment sewing class.  This is an advanced class and everyone has experience garment making - I'm holding my own though - all my self-study, the couture hand-sewing class, and practice has definitely helped.  I have quite a bit to learn!

Vogue Pattern Bounty

Dear readers,

After work today, I jumped on down to Joann Fabric for their 3.99 pattern sale (Vogue patterns only) going on.   I needed 2 yards of muslin since I am taking a very promising Introduction to Pattern-Making class on Saturday morning in that hipster enclave of Los Angeles, Silver Lake (where I do buy quite a bit of Japanese fabric).

Here is my bounty:

Vogue 8146:

I didn't mean to purchase this - I ran across this while browsing for missing patterns in the drawers (as usual!) - I found this by mistake - I love sheath dresses - and loved the jacket on this one. . .

Vogue 8333:

A Claire Shaeffer pattern that I love!  Since I saw Erika B make a wonderful Claire Shaeffer jacket - I couldn't wait to pick this up - I want to eventually put my newly acquired couture skills to work!

Vogue 8667:

A very easy vogue pattern that I saw favorable reviewed on PR - can't wait to sew this up - plus it favors my aesthetic of perhaps vintage, yet modern. . 

Vogue 1206:

I loved the sleeves and neckline on this dress - it looks pretty easy and I've seen positive reviews on PR and my bloglist - Jonathan loves the fabric shown on the model but I certainly cannot see myself in this print!

Vogue 8688:

I like the version on the right, in yellow! I can make this quickly - and I already love a few RTW cashmere sweaters I own in this design!  I really wanted a couple of different knit patterns to be honest but they were out of stock!

In a related note:  Have you seen the option on McCall's webpage for "Printable Patterns."  Has anyone tried this option and if so, what was the result?

I can't wait for tomorrow's class!

Hand Couture Stitching Class

Hello Readers,

I've just completed my first sewing class online! Of all things, it was the couture methods involving handstitching - which, paradoxically I signed up for less than a mere week after acquiring my wonderful vintage serger.

Susan Khalje (Susan's Website), a wonderful couture designer, hosted the online class on Pattern Review - and guess what, I kinda really like hand stitching now.  It has a certain look, and when done well, is gorgeous.  And, I think, the most important aspect is the amount of control it gives you when stitching (zippers, lining, and gathering can be very easy!).

Here are some stitches that I really liked best:

The Prick Stitch (an easy variation of the back stitch) - here is my practice zipper (first try!):

The catch stitch (for adhering fabric have linings or lace)

The fell stitch (the go-to stitch for security). I have it pictured below attaching two lace pieces.  But in reality it is THE stitch used, for example, to put in linings by hand because of its strength.

We are also learning hand-overcasting, the slipstitch, the basting stitch, the backstitch, the blanket stitch, buttonhole stitch (using buttonhole twist thread), and the invisible hem stitch.  We also learned how and when to use beeswax!

There were some other techniques and stitches taught as well!  One that I didn't master was the thread chain.  This particular decorative stitch is used to attach the lining to the skirt or for belts, for example.

We also learned about threads and needles (size 9 sharps are best for hand-sewing; cotton, polyester, mix of cotton polyester or silk finish cotton threads are all used frequently (she recommends high quality imported threads, like Guterman or Mettler).

Unexpectedly fun class!

I also stated I was going to post on my serger class - I've since decided not too - I read over my post and it was too defensive and a bit snarky.  I wish this blog to be a positive sewing blog!

Hopefully, now I'll actually sew something:)